Phosphate help

adumb112

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I have a 25g LPS reef lagoon and wondering where my phosphates can be coming from.

I have 3 fish and some inverts, aquamaxx skimmer. I use Chemipure, BRS GFO and dosing 2ml nopox every day.

I feed 1 cube of mysis every other day and 5ml reef energy AB+ once a week.
I also do a 5g WC every week using RODI for salt and ATO water.

My pO4 is always 1.2-1.5. Corals look okay, but I’d love to get it under 1.0 to see if I can get more coloration out of my zoas and torches.

Any recommendations?
 

lapin

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Skip the AB( water changes will add your trace elements) and change out the gfo more often
 

vetteguy53081

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Adding Chemipure Elite will keep your phos and Nitrate in check while polishing the tank water.
Phosphates in the reef aquarium can come from many sources including fish food, live rock, and even the salt water that is mixed for water changes. Depending on water parameters, specifically pH, phosphates can actually be released from the dissolution of calcium based sediments. Phosphates are introduced into saltwater systems in various ways, such as: By using unfiltered tap water for making up sea salt mixes or as top-off water. Through many common aquarium products used, such as some sea salt mixes , activated carbon, KH buffers, certain foods put placed into the tank, and many other sources.
 

mvbrandt

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How long since you last cleared out mulm/detritus from underneath your rock structures and in your various sump or skimmer zones? I know in my nano I had phos trouble some time ago because I'd let too much phos-producing detritus build up in places you couldn't see.

If you're in a similar situation, that stuff will constantly release phos and nitrate into the water even as it's en route to GFO and other exits.
 
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Jekyl

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1 cube of mysis may be too much also. If they're the centimeter or so cubes you could do half that or less daily. Just enough for what they can finish in 30 seconds or so.
 

Dkmoo

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Imbalance between N to P input ratio vs N to P consumption and export.

Common issue in either new tanks, or tanks that rely on external P control that never allowed tank to reach natural equilibrium via natural maturation and stable/sufficient biodiversity

Coral and algae consume N to P ratio approx 20:1. High quality plankton based fish and coral food is approx 16:1. Meat based good like mysis is even lower N and higher P (don't recall exactly ratios). Amino is all N no P.

As you can see, even if feeding a variety of food, chances are ur avg input N to P ratio will be lower than the 20:1 consumed by coral and algae, leading to excess P

In a naturally matured tank, this is non-issue bc many of the signs of mature tank is a robust and abundant biodiversity of microfauna of bacteria, pods and filter feeders. Most of these are heavy P absorber with N to P ratios leaning a lot more on the P side

In tanks with P control done via external means - GFO, rowaphos - heavy P absorbing microfauna never had a chance to establish, leading to complete dependency on GFO affectiveness and escalating arms race of more biomass = more gfo requirement.

Natural method of P control without establishing said microfauna including artificial dosing of N increase tank ratio close to 20 : 1 to unlock algae growth in fuge and taking the P out with the N. Risky since need highly effective fuge and fuge lighting to outcompete DT algae bloom potential.
 

Pistondog

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If the phosphate is 1.0 ppm, that's pretty high, and is bound to your rocks and substrate, not just water.
Consider lanthanum chloride (phosphate x), dripped into a 5 micron sock.
Target less than 0.2 ppm.
I never had improvement with ab+.
 
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adumb112

adumb112

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How long since you last cleared out mulm/detritus from underneath your rock structures and in your various sump or skimmer zones? I know in my nano I had phos trouble some time ago because I'd let too much phos-producing detritus build up in places you couldn't see.

If you're in a similar situation, that stuff will constantly release phos and nitrate into the water even as it's en route to GFO and other exits.
I clean my back chambers every month or two. I’ve never cleaned under my rockscape. I could try it as I only have a 3 pieces that make up my scape.
 

lapin

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AB is not a trace element mixture. You might be thinking of fuel?

Consists of an organic complex of dissolved and suspended simple building blocks of carbohydrates, amino acids, fatty acids, and vitamins,

My Ipinion: You dont need AB. Water changes will keep ypur coral alive with trace elements. If your levels are that high in nutrients AB is adding fuel to your fire. You want to reduce PO4 yes?
 

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Consists of an organic complex of dissolved and suspended simple building blocks of carbohydrates, amino acids, fatty acids, and vitamins,

My Ipinion: You dont need AB. Water changes will keep ypur coral alive with trace elements. If your levels are that high in nutrients AB is adding fuel to your fire. You want to reduce PO4 yes?


I am guessing I misunderstood your wording and thought you were saying that he doesn't need AB because water changes will supply trace elements. My bad if I misunderstood.
 

lapin

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I am guessing I misunderstood your wording and thought you were saying that he doesn't need AB because water changes will supply trace elements. My bad if I misunderstood.
Sometimes im not too good at explaining my thoughts. No worries.
 

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