Phosphates: Do you even EXPORT bro?

What method do you use to export phosphates? Choose all that apply

  • Chemically

    Votes: 306 45.7%
  • Naturally

    Votes: 412 61.6%
  • Mechanically

    Votes: 293 43.8%
  • Nothing

    Votes: 80 12.0%

  • Total voters
    669

Revmh

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It’s just a feeling, but I think if it is added at a wrong time and/or wrong amount / photoperiod, it can outcompete beneficial bacteria for ammonia and nitrite, and push/keep the tank in an imbalanced state, which might lead to dinos/cyanos ultimately. I also think it competes for trace elements with corals, and in some cases this could lead to growth/coral color issues. Or it competes with some type of bacteria that’s present in the system and corals feed on those. Might be a coincidence, but I’ve pulled mine after 3 years, and the skimmate is lighter now & corals have a deeper color. I’ve tried dosing no3/po4 before, but I think I still was mainly feeding the algae in the fuge with that approach.
Interesting! Thank you for the reply back. You've given me some stuff to think about!
 

LC8Sumi

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Interesting! Thank you for the reply back. You've given me some stuff to think about!
I could be wrong, but I think there is still a lot to learn about the microfauna in our tanks (like what takes up what, what feeds on what, etc.)
 

JimFuller

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1) Yes, I use the Hanna Testers. Last nights check showed .13 ppm.
2) I used several methods at the same time. 1 do a 10% water change weekly. I have a very good refugium, skimmer, and i dose Lanthanum Chloride, when the level gets above .25 ppm.

I find that the Nitrates play a part in the Phosphate level. Last night check was 3 ppm for Nitrate. I may need to bring that up a bit. But the tank looks good and I do not get too carried away in making changes.
 
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Revmh

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I could be wrong, but I think there is still a lot to learn about the microfauna in our tanks (like what takes up what, what feeds on what, etc.)
I agree, there has to be so much more to learn! When we consider the impact on individual closed reefs in our home, with our unique set of circumstances... we have a lot of variables to consider.
 

Blacktip

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I used to check all parameters once a week. Currently, I haven't checked them form more than 6 month. The only filtration I have is the skimmer. keep it simple!
 

DancingWind

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1) weekly LR Hanna test - 0 :)
2) big butt triton style refugium(100L on 500L dt) + 150W amazon horticulture lamp + skimmer (rsk-600)
 

drernesto

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Just monitor it frequently with my @ReefBot
I change GFO whenever I get a higher reading.
Most effective way I found is to have 3 GFO reactors and changing the media sequentially according to the ReefBot results

AF887846-DD37-42A1-A355-5A3DBE85DA98.jpeg
 
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ReefAtlas

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I try to keep nitrate between 2 and 4 ppm (Red Sea test) and phosphorus between 15 and 30 ppb (Hanna ULR P).

I dose sodium nitrate and seachem phosphorus in my fish-less frag tank (60 gallon), occasionally if required. I try to keep both in range with Red Sea coral food mixed with benereef food. Export methods = skimmer and 10% water change occasionally... I target feed the LPS frags twice a week.

Main tank (165 gallon well stocked, 2+ yrs old), I skim, use a reverse photo period sea lettuce fuge, 10% water changes most weeks, and BRS GFO as needed. NoPox if nitrate begins to rise above 4. Not often on the NoPOx. GFO is used 1 cup at a time. Sometimes in a bag if I don't feel like messing with the reactor.

I test NO3 and PO4 once a week on each tank as long as they are running in range, just to be sure.
 

webmanny

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I use the fuge in the back of my AIO, but I also dose Vibrant, which is bacteria. So, natural stuff. I rarely do water changes, as I am using the Triton method and it has been working great for about a year now.
 

mikedb

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I don't fully understand why, but my challenge with phosphates (and nitrates) is keeping them high enough! Admittedly my tank is just under a year old, but I am having to dose ~80ml/day of Brightwell NeoPhos to keep my phosphates in an acceptable range. Like the poster above, I use a ReefBot to measure phosphate levels- twice daily. If I let them get to 0.02ppm of below, corals start visibly suffering and dinoflagellates return.

I feed 5 cubes a day in my 175 gallon system, and had expected phosphate reduction to become an issue by now. My best guess is that the ~100lbs of CaribSea LifeRock is absorbing the phosphates- essentially the opposite of what other people have experienced where old live rock leaches phosphates.
 

SMB

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Pellet reactor and Protein Skimmer; PO4 stays <0.1.
Nitrates tend to stay very low as well but corals (no sticks) seem to do well.
 

Javamahn

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I run a small DIY Chaeto Reactor but most times my Phosphates are too low 0.00 - 0.01 and I have to dose them back if I don't overfeed. I just added 3 good size Blue Reef Chromis in hopes that an increased bioload will balanced without dosing back.
 
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Raulete

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Is a painfull phospates when you want a reef tank with acroporas and also you like the tang fishes ... so i test my tank with hanna checker ulr phosphorous.
Try to keep my RODI sistem at 0 TDS for water changes and autorefill with silco resin and Purolite . When i have po4 in my tank i use silco extreme phos with reactor... i looking for 0,03 ppm PO4

is a hard figth caused by fishes mantenance !!!
 

PeterG

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I was able to lower my phosphates from between .15 - .08 PPM down to under .05PPM by eliminating pellets from my fish’s diet. PE Pellets state that they contain a max of .75% phosphorus and the Chroma Boost pellets, while not listing a % of phosphorus do list calcium phosphate as an ingredient.
 

Naso180

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Phosphates can be a pain the ole sump! Zero phosphates are no good but too much and you have a problem! Ewww algae! So let's talk today about how the masses are keeping phosphates under control!

1. Do you keep a steady eye on your phosphate levels?

2. What plan do you have in place, chemically, naturally or mechanically to export phosphates?

export phosphates.jpg
I pull several gallons of cheato and grape macro algae out of my refugium on my 180g display tank and actually dose Phosphate in my flat! Algae in my display tank is free food for my Tangs and keeps them active grazing all of the surfaces.
 

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