Please Critique My Current Plans! :)

Dave Mrnak · Sep 27, 2018

Hello Reefers,

Like most of you, the moment I learned about reefing I was in LOVE. I am absolutely enthused by the subject of all things reefing. I am fortunate enough to have a wonderful wife that lets me spend our money on things we enjoy. It also a bonus for it to be an in home hobby, as I am an avid hunter.

I was able to score a pretty good deal on a tank the moment I decided this was for me. Off to the races I was, starting my cycling and beginning the journey. It has only been 1 month, and I have already realized the potential and limitless routes this hobby can take me. So much so, as I would like to revamp my SUMP into what I think would be manageable for me and beneficial for my inhabitants. Please read below and feel free to critique, give advice, and just confirm I am on the right route. I will have questions that I'm unsure of or looking for answers specifically Bolded.

History:
I have a 220 Gallon 72"L X 24" W X 30" T. see my picture for my rock placement. It is live dry Fiji Rock. I have a glass top and two back corner sections for my intake and return lines in each. Overhead I have 3 Hydra 26 HD LEDs every 18".
My Sump is ESHOPPS WD-300-CS WET-DRY FILTER SUMP with a Vectra V1 for my return and a classic Reef Octopus 150 Skimmer.
Currently running a bare bottom tank.
I have begun cycling 30 days ago.
15 days ago I added 3 damsels.
2 days ago I added 11 X Turbo Snails, 6 X Blue Legged Hermits, and 6 X Astrea Snails.
I'm seeing some slight brown algae as the tank cycles.

What I want to do moving forward:
I have read so much the last week, giving 8 hours a day or so to learn as much as I can. I have compiled and re-read my thoughts to put them as accurately before you.

1. Sump- It seems everyone tends to lean away from Wet/Drys. I am in that same boat. I would like to run a refugium instead with chaeto, arthropods and copepods to be able to better export unused nutrients from the tank. As well as grow larvae for a better ecosystem and import some of my own food. I plan on my sump containing some marine pure blocks in conjunction with the 120lbs of Fiji rock in my main display. Additionally I will have a Roller Mat, GFO Reactor, Carbon Reactor of ROX 0.8 Carbon, the same Skimmer I currently own, a Neptune Apex controller, Apex DOS controller(Will I need to Dose anything daily besides Calcium and Alkalinity?), Pentair Smart High Output UV 50 Watt. Do I need a second heater, one comes with the APEX, for redundancy?
Maybe even a chiller, not quite sure I'm sold on that yet.

What Sump should I look for knowing my plan for it, and keeping in mind I love experimenting and need room to grow!

2. Main Display- I am currently running a bare bottom. I had the idea of utilizing Green Star Polyp as a kind of shag carpet. Well at 30" deep, I would not be able to properly groom as I know it would required that depth of a tank. Is it too late to add sand, I've seen some methods to do it once you already have water it it? Luckily, I have few inhabitants and no coral, so I could easily remove. I want a very high flow tank SPS dominated, so it would need to be heavier stone. I'm honestly most confused to this topic, sand or no sand....THOSE SAND SIFTING GOBIES ARE SO COOL! I am grabbing some Vortech MP 40 and placing them on the sides. 2 enough, or go 4 for some on the back?

3. Canopy- I have researched the current lights I have and with an 18" spread from center will be grabbing a fourth Hydra 26HD for full coverage of my tank.

4. Off site RO/DI- My tanks sits right on the wall, to which the other side is the garage. I really want to do everything myself and with that comes to mind Top off Water. I plan on using TUNZE osmolator 3155 for my top off. With a max head height of 7Ft that is more than enough to get the water where I want it to be. My idea is to have a 6-Stage RO/DI system mounted to the wall in the garage. I run the water through it and it collects in a 55 Gallon Reef Safe Bin in the garage. The ATO will sit in the sump and draw the clean RO water from this bin in the garage. This sound right?

I plan on checking and monitoring Cal, PH, dKH, Mg, Salinity often. Anything else I should keep on eye for?

End: Thank you for taking the time to read this, I sure hope it was easy to understand. I really want a crystal clear laboratory looking tank that is thriving. I plan on dosing with the Red Sea Line of Products. Once I am able to fully understand what I am doing LOL, I may venture off and take a look at ZEOvit.
I look forward to your responses, GOOD OR BAD!!
-Dave

dwest · Sep 27, 2018

Dave Mrnak said:
Hello Reefers,

Like most of you, the moment I learned about reefing I was in LOVE. I am absolutely enthused by the subject of all things reefing. I am fortunate enough to have a wonderful wife that lets me spend our money on things we enjoy. It also a bonus for it to be an in home hobby, as I am an avid hunter.

I was able to score a pretty good deal on a tank the moment I decided this was for me. Off to the races I was, starting my cycling and beginning the journey. It has only been 1 month, and I have already realized the potential and limitless routes this hobby can take me. So much so, as I would like to revamp my SUMP into what I think would be manageable for me and beneficial for my inhabitants. Please read below and feel free to critique, give advice, and just confirm I am on the right route. I will have questions that I'm unsure of or looking for answers specifically Bolded.

History:
I have a 220 Gallon 72"L X 24" W X 30" T. see my picture for my rock placement. It is live dry Fiji Rock. I have a glass top and two back corner sections for my intake and return lines in each. Overhead I have 3 Hydra 26 HD LEDs every 18".
My Sump is ESHOPPS WD-300-CS WET-DRY FILTER SUMP with a Vectra V1 for my return and a classic Reef Octopus 150 Skimmer.
Currently running a bare bottom tank.
I have begun cycling 30 days ago.
15 days ago I added 3 damsels.
2 days ago I added 11 X Turbo Snails, 6 X Blue Legged Hermits, and 6 X Astrea Snails.
I'm seeing some slight brown algae as the tank cycles.

What I want to do moving forward:
I have read so much the last week, giving 8 hours a day or so to learn as much as I can. I have compiled and re-read my thoughts to put them as accurately before you.

1. Sump- It seems everyone tends to lean away from Wet/Drys. I am in that same boat. I would like to run a refugium instead with chaeto, arthropods and copepods to be able to better export unused nutrients from the tank. As well as grow larvae for a better ecosystem and import some of my own food. I plan on my sump containing some marine pure blocks in conjunction with the 120lbs of Fiji rock in my main display. Additionally I will have a Roller Mat, GFO Reactor, Carbon Reactor of ROX 0.8 Carbon, the same Skimmer I currently own, a Neptune Apex controller, Apex DOS controller(Will I need to Dose anything daily besides Calcium and Alkalinity?), Pentair Smart High Output UV 50 Watt. Do I need a second heater, one comes with the APEX, for redundancy?
Maybe even a chiller, not quite sure I'm sold on that yet.

What Sump should I look for knowing my plan for it, and keeping in mind I love experimenting and need room to grow!

2. Main Display- I am currently running a bare bottom. I had the idea of utilizing Green Star Polyp as a kind of shag carpet. Well at 30" deep, I would not be able to properly groom as I know it would required that depth of a tank. Is it too late to add sand, I've seen some methods to do it once you already have water it it? Luckily, I have few inhabitants and no coral, so I could easily remove. I want a very high flow tank SPS dominated, so it would need to be heavier stone. I'm honestly most confused to this topic, sand or no sand....THOSE SAND SIFTING GOBIES ARE SO COOL! I am grabbing some Vortech MP 40 and placing them on the sides. 2 enough, or go 4 for some on the back?

3. Canopy- I have researched the current lights I have and with an 18" spread from center will be grabbing a fourth Hydra 26HD for full coverage of my tank.

4. Off site RO/DI- My tanks sits right on the wall, to which the other side is the garage. I really want to do everything myself and with that comes to mind Top off Water. I plan on using TUNZE osmolator 3155 for my top off. With a max head height of 7Ft that is more than enough to get the water where I want it to be. My idea is to have a 6-Stage RO/DI system mounted to the wall in the garage. I run the water through it and it collects in a 55 Gallon Reef Safe Bin in the garage. The ATO will sit in the sump and draw the clean RO water from this bin in the garage. This sound right?

I plan on checking and monitoring Cal, PH, dKH, Mg, Salinity often. Anything else I should keep on eye for?

End: Thank you for taking the time to read this, I sure hope it was easy to understand. I really want a crystal clear laboratory looking tank that is thriving. I plan on dosing with the Red Sea Line of Products. Once I am able to fully understand what I am doing LOL, I may venture off and take a look at ZEOvit.
I look forward to your responses, GOOD OR BAD!!
-Dave

I would personally skip marine pure blocks and gfo. 2 part should work if you are doing water changes. I would wait on heater and chiller until you determine your needs. I doubt you will need a chiller with leds. IME mp40’s aren’t great for your 6 ft tank. You won’t have great flow with two of them. You’ll either need to get 4 along the back or I would try mp60’s. Sand sifting gobies are cool. But they are great carpet surfers and deposit lots of sand on bottom dwelling corals. I am currently removing my sand...Your RODI sounds great. Have you looked at the t5 led hybrids? I just have installed mine and love it so far. Good luck!

RichtheReefer21 · Sep 27, 2018

Nice plan... Kalkwasser could be used as well...

Lemme ring the pros to help you before you get 100 different opinions of what works for them.
#reefsquad

There are a handful of very successful bare-bottom SPS reefers on here, hopefully they stop by and check in!

Oh, and by the way... Welcome to R2R! All the help you need from the start!

Get a Build Thread started and copy and paste this over there!! And Show some pics of the tank and what you've got so far!

Radman73 · Sep 27, 2018

Dave Mrnak said:
Hello Reefers,

Like most of you, the moment I learned about reefing I was in LOVE. I am absolutely enthused by the subject of all things reefing. I am fortunate enough to have a wonderful wife that lets me spend our money on things we enjoy. It also a bonus for it to be an in home hobby, as I am an avid hunter.

I was able to score a pretty good deal on a tank the moment I decided this was for me. Off to the races I was, starting my cycling and beginning the journey. It has only been 1 month, and I have already realized the potential and limitless routes this hobby can take me. So much so, as I would like to revamp my SUMP into what I think would be manageable for me and beneficial for my inhabitants. Please read below and feel free to critique, give advice, and just confirm I am on the right route. I will have questions that I'm unsure of or looking for answers specifically Bolded.

History:
I have a 220 Gallon 72"L X 24" W X 30" T. see my picture for my rock placement. It is live dry Fiji Rock. I have a glass top and two back corner sections for my intake and return lines in each. Overhead I have 3 Hydra 26 HD LEDs every 18".
My Sump is ESHOPPS WD-300-CS WET-DRY FILTER SUMP with a Vectra V1 for my return and a classic Reef Octopus 150 Skimmer.
Currently running a bare bottom tank.
I have begun cycling 30 days ago.
15 days ago I added 3 damsels.
2 days ago I added 11 X Turbo Snails, 6 X Blue Legged Hermits, and 6 X Astrea Snails.
I'm seeing some slight brown algae as the tank cycles.

What I want to do moving forward:
I have read so much the last week, giving 8 hours a day or so to learn as much as I can. I have compiled and re-read my thoughts to put them as accurately before you.

1. Sump- It seems everyone tends to lean away from Wet/Drys. I am in that same boat. I would like to run a refugium instead with chaeto, arthropods and copepods to be able to better export unused nutrients from the tank. As well as grow larvae for a better ecosystem and import some of my own food. I plan on my sump containing some marine pure blocks in conjunction with the 120lbs of Fiji rock in my main display. Additionally I will have a Roller Mat, GFO Reactor, Carbon Reactor of ROX 0.8 Carbon, the same Skimmer I currently own, a Neptune Apex controller, Apex DOS controller(Will I need to Dose anything daily besides Calcium and Alkalinity?), Pentair Smart High Output UV 50 Watt. Do I need a second heater, one comes with the APEX, for redundancy?
Maybe even a chiller, not quite sure I'm sold on that yet.

What Sump should I look for knowing my plan for it, and keeping in mind I love experimenting and need room to grow!

2. Main Display- I am currently running a bare bottom. I had the idea of utilizing Green Star Polyp as a kind of shag carpet. Well at 30" deep, I would not be able to properly groom as I know it would required that depth of a tank. Is it too late to add sand, I've seen some methods to do it once you already have water it it? Luckily, I have few inhabitants and no coral, so I could easily remove. I want a very high flow tank SPS dominated, so it would need to be heavier stone. I'm honestly most confused to this topic, sand or no sand....THOSE SAND SIFTING GOBIES ARE SO COOL! I am grabbing some Vortech MP 40 and placing them on the sides. 2 enough, or go 4 for some on the back?

3. Canopy- I have researched the current lights I have and with an 18" spread from center will be grabbing a fourth Hydra 26HD for full coverage of my tank.

4. Off site RO/DI- My tanks sits right on the wall, to which the other side is the garage. I really want to do everything myself and with that comes to mind Top off Water. I plan on using TUNZE osmolator 3155 for my top off. With a max head height of 7Ft that is more than enough to get the water where I want it to be. My idea is to have a 6-Stage RO/DI system mounted to the wall in the garage. I run the water through it and it collects in a 55 Gallon Reef Safe Bin in the garage. The ATO will sit in the sump and draw the clean RO water from this bin in the garage. This sound right?

I plan on checking and monitoring Cal, PH, dKH, Mg, Salinity often. Anything else I should keep on eye for?

End: Thank you for taking the time to read this, I sure hope it was easy to understand. I really want a crystal clear laboratory looking tank that is thriving. I plan on dosing with the Red Sea Line of Products. Once I am able to fully understand what I am doing LOL, I may venture off and take a look at ZEOvit.
I look forward to your responses, GOOD OR BAD!!
-Dave

1. Get the largest sump you can fit. Doesn't have to be fancy but sounds like you want a drain section, skimmer section, refugium section, and then the return section. Should be plenty of choices based on your budget. You can always build your own sump to suit as well. Have two heaters plugged into the same outlet on your Apex, unless you have plenty of extra outlets, so if one heater fails you get at least some heat. Size of heaters are too complex to recommend as we don't know enough. Not sure you need UV. If you haven't bought it yet, wait, and read up on them more to make sure you really want one. A DOS works great. I have one. Just check the lines at least weekly to ensure they don't have air bubbles. Don't buy a chiller unless you know you need one.

2. I've never added sand other than at the beginning but well rinsed and then dried sand should be pretty easy to add. Choose your gobies carefully. My yellow watchman was a pretty good citizen but they aren't great sand sifters. The better sand sifters tend to swim while sifting. That can be a problem for some. Pair a compatible goby with a pistol shrimp for fun. Agree about holding back on MP40's. They're great pumps, but even 4 is a little light. Check out the Tunze Stream 3's or Gyre XF250's for alternative. Nothing says you can't mix and match powerheads.

3. Sounds like you're set.

4. I have my ATO in the garage along with a 75g refugium. Sensor is in the sump, ATO pumps to the fuge. Works great but likely takes more wire and tubing than what's included. Just plan and try to think of everything before you start drilling and then sealing holes through the wall. I want to be sure you realize the ATO pump would sit in the bin in the garage, not the sump. The ATO sensor would be in the sump. I use PVC pipe after I drill the hole and seal around it, and inside the PVC itself when I'm done, with expanding spray foam. While you're at it, prepare an air suction tube from the garage to your skimmer as it will help keep ph up.

Good luck!

Dave Mrnak · Sep 27, 2018

dwest said:
I would personally skip marine pure blocks and gfo. 2 part should work if you are doing water changes. I would wait on heater and chiller until you determine your needs. I doubt you will need a chiller with leds. IME mp40’s aren’t great for your 6 ft tank. You won’t have great flow with two of them. You’ll either need to get 4 along the back or I would try mp60’s. Sand sifting gobies are cool. But they are great carpet surfers and deposit lots of sand on bottom dwelling corals. I am currently removing my sand...Your RODI sounds great. Have you looked at the t5 led hybrids? I just have installed mine and love it so far. Good luck!

Thanks for the feedback! I have looked at those lights and the hybrids are the ones I want in a perfect world. I got this set-up basically new and at such a good cost, I feel the desire to atleast run them for a couple months, that way hopefully I can give other users feedback one day!

Dave Mrnak · Sep 27, 2018

RichtheReefer21 said:
Nice plan... Kalkwasser could be used as well...

Lemme ring the pros to help you before you get 100 different opinions of what works for them.
#reefsquad

There are a handful of very successful bare-bottom SPS reefers on here, hopefully they stop by and check in!

Oh, and by the way... Welcome to R2R! All the help you need from the start!

Get a Build Thread started and copy and paste this over there!! And Show some pics of the tank and what you've got so far!

#reefsquad I love it. Thanks for the input, I would love to see some bare-bottom reefers share the experiences. Although I really just wanted it for the shag carpet look. So now that I have excluded that, its really up to decide on if I can have the amble flow I desire and maintain a sand bed while not getting blown around!
I have been creeping this forum for a week or so, I am happy to be apart of the community.

Dave Mrnak · Sep 27, 2018

Radman73 said:
1. Get the largest sump you can fit. Doesn't have to be fancy but sounds like you want a drain section, skimmer section, refugium section, and then the return section. Should be plenty of choices based on your budget. You can always build your own sump to suit as well. Have two heaters plugged into the same outlet on your Apex, unless you have plenty of extra outlets, so if one heater fails you get at least some heat. Size of heaters are too complex to recommend as we don't know enough. Not sure you need UV. If you haven't bought it yet, wait, and read up on them more to make sure you really want one. A DOS works great. I have one. Just check the lines at least weekly to ensure they don't have air bubbles. Don't buy a chiller unless you know you need one.

2. I've never added sand other than at the beginning but well rinsed and then dried sand should be pretty easy to add. Choose your gobies carefully. My yellow watchman was a pretty good citizen but they aren't great sand sifters. The better sand sifters tend to swim while sifting. That can be a problem for some. Pair a compatible goby with a pistol shrimp for fun. Agree about holding back on MP40's. They're great pumps, but even 4 is a little light. Check out the Tunze Stream 3's or Gyre XF250's for alternative. Nothing says you can't mix and match powerheads.

3. Sounds like you're set.

4. I have my ATO in the garage along with a 75g refugium. Sensor is in the sump, ATO pumps to the fuge. Works great but likely takes more wire and tubing than what's included. Just plan and try to think of everything before you start drilling and then sealing holes through the wall. I want to be sure you realize the ATO pump would sit in the bin in the garage, not the sump. The ATO sensor would be in the sump. I use PVC pipe after I drill the hole and seal around it, and inside the PVC itself when I'm done, with expanding spray foam. While you're at it, prepare an air suction tube from the garage to your skimmer as it will help keep ph up.

Good luck!

First thanks for the in depth reply. I really do appreciate it.
I will definitely check out those pumps you listed. Maybe I misworded my ATO system, but yes I understand the sensor will be in the sump, and the pump will be in my bin.
Feel free to explain some sand sifters can be a problem for some and the air suction tube to my skimmer, or not and I will keep researching away! Either way Thanks!

Dave Mrnak · Sep 27, 2018

See below for the current look of the tank!

Radman73 · Sep 27, 2018

Dave Mrnak said:
First thanks for the in depth reply. I really do appreciate it.
I will definitely check out those pumps you listed. Maybe I misworded my ATO system, but yes I understand the sensor will be in the sump, and the pump will be in my bin.
Feel free to explain some sand sifters can be a problem for some and the air suction tube to my skimmer, or not and I will keep researching away! Either way Thanks!

You're welcome!

Sand sifters:
Some gobies have a habit of taking a bite of sand and swimming around dusting everything below it, including corals, in sand. That may, or may not bother you. Others stay pretty close to the bottom and do less aesthetic or real damage.

Skimmer:
Your skimmer likely has a "muffler" to quiet down the air suction where it draws in air to make the bubbles. If you're already going through the wall, figuring out a way to hook some tubing to have it draw air from the garage can be advantageous. Houses tend to hold CO2, pushing our pH down. People with chronically low pH but have a tank near a window will often open the window to get fresh air and allow CO2 to escape. Another way to help pH is to run the skimmer airline outside or to a place that gets more fresh air. A garage can work very well for this. If your garage is conditioned it won't work as well. Or if you have a an older house that "leaks" a lot of air you may not need it. Many new houses are extremely tight and will suffer from higher levels of CO2. When we have people over for football, I see a significant drop in pH even with my skimmer airline ran to the garage.

KrisReef · Sep 27, 2018

Looks like you are on your way.
One note (And thank you, I needed a laugh. I'm sitting home recovering from life,..)

You said you were going to put arthropods in your fuge. That would be a first. I think you meant amphipods, not spiders! My tank is in the garage and I find spiders have fallen into it every once in awhile.

And thank you again. You made me lol, and I needed this today. I find no fault in what you posted, probably auto correct and may your day be beautiful. Best of luck with your new set up!

Dave Mrnak · Sep 28, 2018

KrisReef said:
Looks like you are on your way.
One note (And thank you, I needed a laugh. I'm sitting home recovering from life,..)

You said you were going to put arthropods in your fuge. That would be a first. I think you meant amphipods, not spiders! My tank is in the garage and I find spiders have fallen into it every once in awhile.

And thank you again. You made me lol, and I needed this today. I find no fault in what you posted, probably auto correct and may your day be beautiful. Best of luck with your new set up!

LOL, Sometimes autocorrect helps you, and sometimes it hurts you. This time it won!

Dave Mrnak · Sep 28, 2018

What do you guys think for precautionary measures of overflow? I see some people have a main and 2 back-up options. Attached is a video of my system. I have two corner sections each with one intake line and a little whole for suction. Both run into individual wet/dry container. The return line is pushed using my Vectra M1 pump into a T, and then through each corner section back into the main display. See below of video.

I want to leave those lines they way they are, that way I don't have to drain the tank. And simply buy longer grey tubing and replace it so I can place the current sump outside of my furniture. That leaves me tons of room to place and build my new sump. My new sump once done and all glue is dried will then be turned on. Only leaving the tank without flow for 5 minutes either transition, also keeping my lines the same.

My question: Since I have two return lines If one of them gets clogged for whatever reason my secondary would work as a back up, thus allowing me to maintain my current set up and not have to worry about the tank spilling over in the sump or the main display. Are my thoughts correct on this?

I will also limit the amount of water my ATO can draw from limiting that from the equation. Simply having two containers, one on standby for water changes, and one for daily ATO.

I'm really wanting to make sure my tank doesn't spill due to a malfunction I can control!
Thanks for reading!

KrisReef · Sep 28, 2018

My overflows always happen when I am making a water change, so that I add new water faster than I am removing old. My system has enough reserve volume in the sump to handle loss of power when lots of water can backflow through the return lines into the sump. My ATO is a 5 gallon bucket (150 gallon system) that if it fully discharges (fails) my salinity will drop but the tank will not overflow. All of these fails have happened at least once, but the tank has survived those bad days.

My tank is in our garage, so overfilling means I have to mop water off of the cement. If I ever bring my tank back in the house, I would seriously consider putting it inside of some kind of a containment structure that could hold all the water if the tank failed. This is overkill for most people, but I am the king of catastrophe and having a backup catch basin to protect the flooring when I forget to close a valve is a necessity in my case.

Dave Mrnak · Sep 30, 2018

#reefsquad I need your help!

I'm upgrading my Sump to Synergy CL-60! This thing is beautiful.
However, with the bigger pipes I will be utilizing, I need to revamp my overflow corner vents. Specifically speaking, redo my 1" return line so that is now not reduced to the .75" below the tank like it currently is. My Input line is 1.5" and reduced to 1" just above the glass. The holes are so close that it would not be wise to drill my input line to facilitate 1.5". So with that in mind, Is it OK, to have my input reduced and above the glass, and expanded back to 1.5" below the glass?

Please see below for a diagram to better explain.

jsker · Sep 30, 2018

It there a way to two pump your return with DC pumps to have equal return flow with low head pressure?

Dave Mrnak · Sep 30, 2018

Yes i could easily do that. What would that accomplish? More even flow rate strictly? Or also redundancy should one fail?

jsker · Sep 30, 2018

Dave Mrnak said:
Yes i could easily do that. What would that accomplish? More even flow rate strictly? Or also redundancy should one fail?

Even flow with less head pressure. I did not think of the fail safe in cause on pump fails

Dave Mrnak · Sep 30, 2018

@jsker I could easily accomplish that. What are your thought for the 1.5" reduction and enlargement. I cant seem to think of a reason that would hurt it, but again im no plumber

jsker · Sep 30, 2018

Dave Mrnak said:
but again im no plumber

Nor am I

Any time one restricts the flow than the rate of return also slows. Kind of my thought on add a pump and have two instead of having one flowing into to lines.

Dave Mrnak · Oct 2, 2018

Alright guys quick update. I was hoping for some better response to be honest but below will be a full list of things I am doing and products I decided to go with.

1. Sump- I went with the CS-60 by Synergy Reef. Running 2 X BRS Jumbo GFO and Carbon Reactors. They are modding it for me so if down the line I want to, I will be able to throw in some KLIR Filter Sock system. Everything will be hard line plumbed into the system. I've done a few fix it up jobs before, so with whats offered for Schedule 80 and color pipe on the BRS website, I am sure I will be able to make it look awesome!

2. Main Display- Decided against sand for my first build. I went with 2 X Maxspect XF250 on either side of the tank.

3. Canopy- Still purchasing the 4th Hydra HD LED 26.

4. Off site RO/DI- Still in the planning phase for my RO/DI sytem. Will update when I decide how I want to run it.

5. Cabinet- I will be making a custom cabinet that will sit directly next to the tank. This area is where I will house my Neptune System.

-Dave

P.S. @jsker talked to Synergy Reef, and boy are they helpfull, anyways the recomended keeping my drain line to 1" After it was reduced. So on the bottom of the tank where it is reduced, to keep it at 1"