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SDguy

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I recently had to replace my beloved canon elph SD400 which gave incredible pictures for a PnS IMO.

I purchased a Sony DSC W290, along with the underwater housing. Even though it has 3 (three!!) underwater "settings", none seemed to work with my lights (14K phoenix on icecaps). Last night I found a pretty good setting. I still need to reduce blue a little on the computer, but overall, let me know your thoughts, be honest. :squigglemouth:

21_1.jpg


20_1.jpg


13_1.jpg


15_1.jpg


18_1.jpg


06_1.jpg
 

sharklover

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a little hard on the eyes with brightness. but the capture is great. it really does a nice job at bringing out all the colors.
 
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SDguy

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Thanks Ian...before the pros crucify me though, just remember.... point and shoot, point and shoot.... :bigsmile:
 
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SDguy

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a little hard on the eyes with brightness.

I was thinking the exact same thing!! I already had the exposure turned down pretty low on the camera. Is there another trick?
 

revhtree

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I think they look great. The first one was a bit bright, but not bad. Love your corals!
 
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SDguy

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Yeah, I think the zoas are too bright becuase they are on the frag rack WAY up high. I'm afraid if I turn down the exposure any more, the dark/light contrast gets too severe...it'll look like my corals are on the moon :nerd:
 

Sikryd

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I was thinking the exact same thing!! I already had the exposure turned down pretty low on the camera. Is there another trick?

Nice pictures Peter!

I would try turning the WB down one to two notches. I have the Canon D10 point and shoot. So I know what you mean about trying to get pictures on it.
All of my pictures are taken with full lighting on, and it is hard sometimes. They come out overexposed a lot of the time. I have since been messing around with the WB on the camera and seem to be having better luck.
 
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SDguy

SDguy

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OK, here are the stats for the zoa pic. White balance options, in this mode, are:
Auto
Daylight (for sunny outdoor scenes or scenery at night)
Cloudy (use on cloudy days or in the shade)
Fluorescent Light 1 (use under white fluorescent light)
Fluorescent Light 2 (use under natural white fluorescent light)
Fluorescent Light 3 (use under day white fluorescent light)
Incandescent
Flash (use when shooting with flash)

Auto and FL3 seem to add the least amount of blue, though all add a touch :(


Dragon_Eye_Zoas_pic_stats.JPG
 
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Sikryd

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Oh - mine has a thing were I can go - or + right off the back of the camera, by the timer, menu and other buttons.
 
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SDguy

SDguy

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Oh - mine has a thing were I can go - or + right off the back of the camera, by the timer, menu and other buttons.


I think that is exposure, not white balance. Mine was set to -0.7 EV (whatever that means :nerd: ).
 

Brad Syphus

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(whatever that means :nerd: ).

LOL, you sound just like me...
 

Reef Pets

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The photo is a little bright due to over exposure. I dont know anything aby the camera that you are using but from what you put you are able to adjust the exposure? If so, just bring it down some.

The photo quality is nice. If you cannot adjust the exposure on your camera then it can be done in post processing.. I changed the brightness on the photo below.

Overall, quality photos!

21_1_edited-1.jpg
 
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SDguy

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Thanks for the info! I'm afraid that makes it look a little "radioactive", like the green on the tentacles or the blue/purple at the bottom of the pic on the frag rack. The software that comes with the camera allows for a few types of exposure adjustments.

Dark areas
Light areas
Overall brightness
Overall contrast

So would I simply lower the Overall brightness, or just the Light areas? I suppose I should be trying it, instead of asking you LOL....
 

I-K@ndY

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looks good.. Sorry no Critique from me :)
 

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