Daniel@R2R
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My Tank Thread
Introduction
Hello everybody. My name is Alex.
I currently have a 2000-liter tank that was set up in 2015 when my previous 750-liter tank became too small for the fish and corals.
Sadly, on a trip to my parent's house, a power outage was responsible for decimating the first version of this tank (which I named Monolith because of its dimensions and shape). My first impulse after that was to dismantle everything and get rid of the equipment. 90~95% of the livestock just died.
After some time, when I calmed myself down, I decided to restart and that's why this setup was named Rebirth. I consider this tank a very personal work. I dedicated a lot to make it look like what I believe (at least today) a marine aquarium should be, and seeing it featured among so many magnificent aquariums makes me very happy. This is, of course, a very personal view, and I see many other very beautiful tanks set up in many different ways. I really believe that a tank should first and foremost satisfy its owner. After all, he/she's the one who will be living with it in his/her house.
This is, without a doubt, the aquarium that I've had that has given me the most satisfaction.
Here are a few photos of the tank as it was started
And Today!
And Today!
System Profile
- Display tank: 1.8m x 1.5m x 0.7m (6' x 5' x 2.3') - 2000 liters (530 gallons)
- Glass or Acrylic: Low Iron glass
- Stand: Handmade, by myself, solid wood stand.
- Sump: 300 liters (80 gallons) - 2 compartments only: Skimmer and Return pump.
- Grow-out tank: 0.6m x 0.4m x 0.3m (2' x 1.3' x 1') - 100 liters (26.5 gallons) connected to the main system.
- Protein skimmer: SRO5000 Internal Octopus. With me since 2010.
- Carbon/phosphate filtration: 2 x TLF 150 Phosban reactors filled with Aquaforest Carbon and Aquaforest Phosphate Minus.
- Return pump: 1 Mantis 10000 l/h and 1 Maxspect Turbine 8000 l/h
- Water circulation: 2 x Maxspect XF350, 2 x Jebao CP65, 1x Maxspect gyre XF250 and 1 x Icecap Gyre 3000
- Lighting (display): 3 x Radions XR15-G5 Blue, 1 x Radion XR15-G6 Blue , 1 x Radion XR15-G6 Pro, 4 x Aqua Illumination Hydra 52
- Lighting (grow-out): Aqua Illumination Hydra 26HD
- Calcium/alkalinity/magnesium dosing equipment: SRO5000 Octopus Calcium Reactor w/ 2 chambers.
- Triton media in the first chamber. In the second chamber, a mix of several media leftovers and 1kg of Brightwell Coralazarus
- Tunze pressure regulator. No solenoid valve. I use a needle valve to control the PH inside the reactor and, through this, I keep my parameters stable.
- Auto top-off: None. Apex Timer turns my RO/DI system on for 30 minutes every morning. Changing the time interval, the exact volume varies through the year due to ambient temperature and humidity.
- Heating/cooling: 2 x 500W Finnex titanium heater / 1 x 800W Finnex titanium heater (backup). For cooling I have two large coolers which turn on when the temperature reaches 26.5°C (79.7°F) , and in case they are not enough, I have a 3/4HP chiller that turns on when the temperature reaches 27°C (80.6°F).
- System control: Apex Gold with two EB8 bars and an ORP module
Water Circulation and Flow Summary and Objectives:
I have always liked to use a strong flow: 40, 60, even 70x turnover. I think it's good for fish and coral health. Plus, it helps to export organic matter from the display to the sump. As my tank is a bit taller than most, I can manage to keep a stronger flow in the top and a more gentle flow over the sandbed. This allows me to put the corals that don't tolerate too high a current in the bottom of the tank, and my dragonet and pipefish aren't blown around in the tank either.
Water Parameters:
- Temp: 25° ~27°C (77° - 80.6°F). It varies through the year. I only allow up to a maximum variation of 0.5°C during each day.
- pH: Not sure. I don't measure it.
- Specific gravity: 1025~1026
- NO3: 1 ppm
- Ca: 430~480 ppm
- Alk: 7~8 dKH
- Mg: 1350~1500 ppm
- PO4: 0,02~0,04 ppm
- Ammonia and nitrites: I never measured both. In the beginning, the tank cycled for 3 months, and that was time enough for the cycle be complete, After that, I don't think it's too important in a well-established tank.
What salt mix do you use?
I am currently using Aquaforest Reef Salt. It dissolves well and quickly, and the available ICP data is an advantage. Also, the parameters are close to what I keep in the tank. I attribute a good part of my success to water changes which I do weekly with a volume of about 5% of the total volume (100 liters). I've always been a huge fan of water changes.
What kind of rock did you start with?
As my previous system crashed, I filled the whole system with tap water + chlorine for 2 weeks. So, it was all dead rocks in the beginning. I've had some of these rocks with me since 1994 when I set up my first marine tank. The rest was acquired over the years. I have a huge variety of types and shapes. Ultimately, when colonies form, the initial layout loses some of its importance.
What is your substrate?
I use a mix of Samoa Pink, Fiji Pink, and Crushed Coral #1. This is the sandbed that I've been using since my previous setup. More recently, I added 3 bags of Aquaforest live sand, to top off the sandbed.
I think substrate is a must have in a marine tank due to the natural look that it gives to the system, but I like to use a fine layer of 2~3 cm maximum to avoid the accumulation of detritus. In addition, the lower amount of substrate allows me to maintain it without danger as I'm able to move it or even siphon it without major problems.
I love the depth of your aquascape! Can you talk about your approach to aquascaping? Were there any specific goals you tried to be sure you accomplished or anything you wanted to be sure to build into it?
In my two previous setups I ended up using a larger amount of rocks than I intended at the beginning of the builds. New corals ended up forcing me to increase the amount of rocks even more and the result was very loaded systems. In this one, I intended from the beginning to achieve a greater balance between positive and negative spaces. For this, I started with a very limited amount of rocks knowing that in the future I would need to increase the amount and that the corals would occupy part of the space that, in the beginning, was empty.
I set up two islands, a larger one in the rear left quarter of the tank and a smaller one in the front right quarter. This created a good balance of volumes, which increased the feeling of depth in the tank and, at the same time, created a canyon between both islands, diagonally across the tank. I think this canyon is one of the best things in this aquascape. Initially I intended to keep the sps on the larger island, to make better use of lighting and circulation, but this plan was soon abandoned and both islands became mixed, which gives both a more natural look.
An important point that I had in mind was always to keep a large area of substrate exposed and, for that, all new coral was only acquired if it could fit into the contours of the islands, creating a communication with them. Nothing should stay in the middle of the sanbed. Furthermore, all the sps were positioned so that even after they grew, their shape would not harm the contour and proportion of the islands. From time to time some rearrangement/pruning has always been necessary.
Do you have any advice on how to create depth or beauty in an aquascape?
Creating a layout is like any other type of design: if you create good lines, the end result will be good. I strongly believe that the basis for creating/maintaining a good layout is creating/maintaining good lines and keeping the balance between positive and negative space.
Calcium/Alkalinity/Magnesium Summary and Objectives:
I like to keep my alk around 7~8 dKH. Not much more, nor much less than this. I see this range as a secure spot in order to avoid the possibility that some imbalance could cause problems. Most important of all: Keep it as stable as possible! Stability is the key (not the numbers). Since I use a calcium reactor, controlling the Alkalinity implies, automatically, a control of Ca/Mg, as the three are dosed in a balanced way. For these two, stability is also the key. I test for alkalinity once a week and Calcium/Magnesium, monthly.
What and how do you dose for the big 3 (alk/cal/mag)?
I always use a Calcium reactor (even in my previous setups). Actually, with a system as big as mine, balling isn't a cost effective solution. I have always preferred larger sized media with higher hardness. This reduces sludge build-up inside the reactor. The second reactor chamber is also important to ensure that the effluent pH is as high as possible. Currently it is around 7.3~7.5. I also like to have a high water flow through the reactor, with a lower output alkaline reserve value. I also do my best so that the reactor works with the highest possible PH value, depending on the medium I am using. Currently, with Triton media (which is quite difficult to dissolve) I use a pH of approximately 6.8.
Are you dosing anything else for your reef health (carbon dosing, aminos, etc.)?
In my previous setup, around 2012, I started dosing bacteria to optimize the processing of organic matter in the tank. I've always had good results doing this, and I intend to keep doing it. Currently I dose Aquaforest Pro Bio S daily and Aquaforest Bio S weekly after water changes. For a carbon source I dose the Aquaforest NP Pro daily. Another habit I have created and maintained over the years is the use of amino acids and vitamins. I have always noticed better coral health and coloration when I do this than when I didn't. I keep this habit along with water changes. I've used several brands and nowadays I use Aquaforest Vitality and Aquaforest Amino Mix.
Nowadays, due to having very large colonies, I also end up supplementing with microelements. I tried to maintain the system without them and with just the weekly 5% water changes but the result was not good. Several elements showed low levels in ICP tests. Finally, I dose a combination of zooplankton and a microalgae paste (nannochloropsis) two times a week, with the aim of complementing the corals nutrition and also feeding the good micro life of the tank and ensuring that it is in perfect balance with those undesirable elements (cyanos, diatoms, dinoflagellates, etc.).
Lighting Summary and Objectives:
Display tank:
Around 14 hours a day, with the first 2 and the last 2 hours having very soft lighting. The PAR level varies from 100 to 450. In this system I used LEDs exclusively for lighting from the beginning. In my previous assembly I had already done this and the result pleased me a lot. I started with fixtures from Aqua Illumination. 4 Hydras 52, 1 Hydra 26 and 3 Vegas that came from my previous build. I kept it that way for years until last year when I decided to replace the Vegas with Radions. I initially bought 3 x XR15 Blue GEN5, but I didn't like them very much because of the lights being too greenish in tone. Later, I bought 2 more: 1 Blue and 1 Pro from generation 6. These pleased me much more. Regardless of the spectrum, the uniform coverage they have is very interesting. My intention is to replace the other Aqua Illumination fixtures that are already 10 years old.
Grow-out tank: 1 Hydra 26 HD for 10 hours a day. Just that.
Filtration and Water Quality Summary and Objectives:
The main water filtration element I have is my SRO 5000 Octopus Skimmer. I often say that it, along with my Calcium reactor, are the two best pieces of plastic I have ever purchased. I don't use shark bag, perlon or any other type of mechanical filtration. Just because.
I recently put a 20-liter box of siporax pond back into the sump. I believe that a good bacterial population is very important for maintaining the health of the system as a whole. I have two TLF 150 reactors in which I use Carbon and GFO. Carbon is changed once a month (or if something unusual happens). GFO is changed only if for some reason the phosphate level exceeds 0.06.
What is your export strategy?
I believe high import/high export is a good holding strategy. For this reason, I keep (since a long time ago) a high-capacity skimmer, two media reactors with GFO/GAC, daily dosage of bacteria and carbon and weekly partial water changes. Of all of them, if I could choose only one of these, it would be the water changes without a doubt. In parallel to this, I maintain a very strong and varied water circulation system.
Personally, I don't like mechanical filtration like sharkbags/perlon as they remove particles from the water column but keep them in contact with the water (allowing them to dissolve). I prefer strategies that permanently remove these elements from aquarium water or those in which they are consumed and processed. Nowadays, with the amount and size of the colonies, it became way easier to export than in the beginning when I had so much less corals in the tank. Corals are a great way to export nutrients.
What is your maintenance routine?
- Daily: Feed fish. Feed corals. Dose bacteria and carbon source. Get a beer. Sit and enjoy the tank.
- Weekly: Water changes. Dosage of microelements 2x week. Strontium, Kalium, Iodum, Micro-E, Fluorine, Borum and Iron from Aquaforest is what I dose. I'm doing ICP tests every 4 months to check if everything is ok. Dosage of Amino Mix and Vitality 2x week. Glass cleaning.
- Monthly: GAC change and Aquaforest Life Source dosage
- Other: Other maintenance, such as replacement and cleaning of the calcium reactor, replacement of the co2 cylinder, replacement of RO/DI filtering elements, washing of the skimmer/pump body, are carried out when necessary.
Tank Inhabitants
Fish:
- Acanthurus leucosternon
- Acanthurus olivaceus
- Zebrasoma gemmatum
- Naso elegans
- Chelmon rostratus
- 5 x Chrysiptera springeri
- Gramma loreto
- A couple of Orange Storm ocellaris clownfishes
- Pseudochromis springeri
- Pseudochromis fridmani
- Synchiropus splendidus
- Corythoichthys sp.
- Valenciennea puellaris
- Cryptocentrus cinctus
- Opistognathus aurifrons
- Meiacanthus smithii
- Meiacanthus atrodorsalis
- Pseudocheilinus hexataenia
- Halichoeres chrysus
- Cirrhilabrus lubbocki
- Halichoeres melanurus
- Anampses meleagrides
- Cirrhilabrus aquamarinus
- Macropharyngodon bipartitus
- Cardinal bangai
Invertebrates:
- 3 x derasa clams
- 2 x maxima clams
- 2 x crocea clams
- Squamosa clam
- Nardoa variolata (starfish)
- Sandsifter starfish
- Blue tuxedo urchin
- Pistol shrimp (who lives with my Cryptocentrus cinctus)
Corals:
My main goal since beginning was to setup a full mixed reef tank, with a great variety of corals, from soft to lps and sps.
- More than 50 species of acroporas
- More than 50 species of zoanthus/palythoanthus
- More than 20 species of euphyllias, between torches, hammers, and frogspawns.
- Several favias and favites
- Lobophyllias and symphyllias
- Some plates. Long and short tentacles
- Bubble coral
- Elegance coral
- Leathers
- Montiporas: some encrusting ones and 4 Capricornis
- Anacroporas
- 2 kinds of pectinias
- Diploastrea
- Ricordeas florida and yuma
- Mushrooms and rhodactis
- Gonioporas and alveoporas
- Leptoseris and leptastreas
- Over 10 species of chalices
- Photosynthetic gorgonians
- Trumpet kriptonita
- Duncanopsammia
- Blastomussas and micromussas
Fish and Coral Feeding:
I always thought it was important to vary the diet of fish. Therefore, I have always used a wide range of foods.
Currently, I feed my fish 3-5 times a day, depending on the day, with a mix of flake food, pellet food, zooplankton, nori and mysis. After some tests, I adopted the Vittalis brand as my favorite. The response from the fish was the best I've ever had in dry food. I use 6 different types, flakes and pellets.
Something I've always done and that I think is very important, especially for tangs, is the use of Nori algae. I find that the tangs' coloration improves as well as their overall health when they are given nori regularly. I feed nori almost every day.
Finally, recently I started using fresh foods in greater quantities and more frequently. I use some local brands (mainly Aquasmart) and Liquid Rotifers by Aquaforest.
The coral feed used has changed a lot over the years. It went from zero to a very wide variety recently. I currently use Aquaforest LPS Food, Zoafood, Rico Food, Power food and AF Growth Boost in addition to Phyto Mix, nano paste and Zooplankton.
How did you decide what to keep in your tank?
I already had my acro time and it stayed in the past. I've had success with a tank dedicated to acroporas, and in this tank my main goal was to create an environment with a wide variety of species. For this, taking into account the restrictions imposed by some of my fish, I make a point of having the widest possible variety of animals, with the widest possible variety of colors and shapes.
Any stocking regrets?
Some, of course. It's unavoidable in a reef tank.
I put in a small lineatus tang and it had to be removed after getting big and very, very aggressive towards all the other fishes in the tank. It was chased a neon goby. I also regret adding a small pink tail triggerfish, which grew up to eat a pair of small clownfishes that I tried to put in the tank. It had to go too.
For corals, I don't remember any regrets. There have been some corals that I eventually removed, to open space for new ones, but that was all.
I choose very judiciously what goes into the aquarium. In general, I am very concerned about the longevity of animals and aggression between fishes.
Any fish, invert, or coral you will NEVER keep?
Never is a strong word, but there are some things that I avoid. Anything that is not suitable for aquarium life (i.e. some planktivory butterflyfishes or anthias). I also avoid Hepatus and Yellow tangs. There's enough tanks in the world with one or both. I'll pass on them. Aggressive fish are avoided as well. I like a calm environment.
What do you love most about the hobby?
The challenges. Being able to set goals, work hard and achieve them. I like to overcome limits.
How long have you been doing this?
35 long years.
Who was responsible for getting you into the hobby?
My father. He gave me my first bowl aquarium when I was 6. After that, I never stopped. I have always loved marine life and love to keep aquariums, marine or not.
A photo with my father helping me set up the Rebirth tank.
Who or what in the hobby most influences/inspires you?
I have several close friends to whom I talk regularly about the tank and the hobby itself. I think it's important to talk about it, mainly over the setbacks. All of them have a lot of experience in the hobby and I respect their opinion and advice a lot. The forums in general have helped me a lot too. I consider the forums to be the best source of information/inspiration for anyone wanting to set up an aquarium. In them, you can learn from people who have been doing this for many years. In them, you can see and follow tanks, decide what you like and what you don't and (as a bonus)) have contact with other aquarists from all over the world.
If you could have any tank, what size would it be and why?
A 3m x 2m x 0.8m (10' x 6.5' x 2.5') 5000-liter system (roughly 1300 gallons). Two islands in opposite corners, like I have now. A lot of exposed sand. I really like large tanks with big footprints. The layout possibilities are huge in this kind of tank and it's a lot easier to keep a large amount of sandbed exposed.
Favorite fish?
Nowadays, the dragonface pipefish. But it changes overtime. I like Powder Blue tang a lot too. I think, considering how long I've had a marine aquarium, he was my favorite for the longest period of time. I like the combination of colors, the shape, the swim and the personality.
Favorite coral?
I don't have one. Maybe granulosas. I have a soft spot for the smooth skin acros, but I also love zoas, acanthophyllias, frogs, favias, euphyllias, etc...
Favorite invert?
CLAMS!
I think the tridacnas are a special case in the marine aquarium. I can't imagine myself building a tank where I don't have at least one clam. The design of the mantle and the colors are simply fantastic. In addition, each animal is unique in its color and design pattern. I would have a tank exclusively dedicated to keeping tridacnas without any problem.
How do you typically get over setbacks?
Drinking, cursing and starting over. LOL!
No. In fact, I believe that a large part of a marine aquarist's motivation comes from the challenges he faces. If it weren't for them, it would be like keeping a pot of water with a beta fish. That's why I don't believe in getting discouraged in the face of challenges or problems. Plus, I'm a very stubborn person.
Have you faced any major challenges with this particular tank, and if so, how did you overcome?
In late 2018, an imbalance caused a first outbreak of substrate dinoflagellates (amphidinium) to occur. Since then, it's been 4 years of struggle. Because of the dinos, I had to remove a good part of my sandbed and keep the tank partially bare bottom. This year I remembered that in 2012 I had an outbreak of ostreopsis in my frag tank, and at the same time the display remained intact. Searching around, I found a thread that linked the emergence of dinoflagellates to outdated or poor quality lighting. At the time, I replaced the cheap Chinese T5 light fixture that I used in the frag tank with an LED light fixture and in a short time the problem was solved. I remembered that this year and decided to change the oldest light fixtures I had, and the problem was solved. In addition, another fact that led me to associate the outbreaks with the lighting fixtures is that the amphidiniums appeared almost exclusively on the front of the display, where the old lighting fixtures were. At the rear, where the newer lights were located, I was able to maintain the substrate without major problems.
What's the best thing you ever bought for your tank?
Equipment: my SRO 5000 Skimmer and Calcium reactor...Both closely followed by the Ecotech Radions LED fixtures.
What are your future plans for improvement/upgrade of the tank?
Upgrade?? None! It's already big enough. LOL!
To improve, a KH controller. It'll be a must!
Any special tips for success or advice you'd like to share with other reefers?
Keep it calm and do things slowly.
Be patient.
Don't believe everything that you read/hear.
Be patient.
Be a critical thinker. Make your own decisions and deal with the consequences.
Be patient.
Buy more frags and less colonies.
Be patient.
Don't chase numbers.
Plus, enjoy the journey! It's not the destination...the journey is the big trip.
Final Thoughts?
Remember that reefkeeping is a hobby. Therefore, it must please you and make your life lighter. It should give you pleasure. It should make you feel accomplished. If none of that is happening, you're doing it wrong. Stop and restart.
