PLEASE HELP ASAP!! VELVET INFECTED FISH

4FordFamily

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Watch out for ammonia, it can kill em fast. Good luck though, I don’t find idols to be sensitive to copper at all.
 

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Watch out for ammonia, it can kill em fast. Good luck though, I don’t find idols to be sensitive to copper at all.

Agree. Make sure to offer them nori on a clip as well. They have an extremely high metabolism.
 
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Pictures of them that I took yesterday.

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Screenshot_20181103-104334.png
 
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So the fish have been in copper for 31 days as of today from the day I tested it with copper using the Hanna checker and it being at therapeutic levels.. since I wasnt so sure with the API test kit.. is it safe to start adding carbon and slowly removing the copper? Do I have to remove the copper slowly or can I just add a bunch of carbon and remove it all in 24 hours?
@HotRocks
 

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So the fish have been in copper for 31 days as of today from the day I tested it with copper using the Hanna checker and it being at therapeutic levels.. since I wasnt so sure with the API test kit.. is it safe to start adding carbon and slowly removing the copper? Do I have to remove the copper slowly or can I just add a bunch of carbon and remove it all in 24 hours?
@HotRocks



You can remove it right away. Do a large water change they'll love the less copper water.
 

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You can remove it right away. Do a large water change they'll love the less copper water.

I agree. Large water change is the best way to remove.

Carbon will be super slow in removing chelated copper. I always do 100% WC and add carbon to cleanup any remainder.
 

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Okay, even if I use the bulk reef supply ROX carbon?

Yes, even so. I have never tried pushing it through a reactor. Just HOB inserts barely remove any. If you are using a reactor it may be more effective.

Cupramine or ionic copper is Much more easily removed with carbon.
 
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So, I put 10 table spoons of the bulk reef supply ROX carbon in the 55 gallon QT just to experiment and see how much it would remove so i know for future reference.. and it hardly removed any! Right before I added the carbon, it was at 1.67ppm.. I add the carbon and 23 hours later it was at 1.66ppm.. still leaving the same carbon in I waited another 22 hours and it was at 1.62ppm.. So after 45 hours it only dropped by 0.05ppm... and I put this in a large mesh bag so it's super loose and put it right in front of a powerhead so its tumbling very nicely...
 

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So, I put 10 table spoons of the bulk reef supply ROX carbon in the 55 gallon QT just to experiment and see how much it would remove so i know for future reference.. and it hardly removed any! Right before I added the carbon, it was at 1.67ppm.. I add the carbon and 23 hours later it was at 1.66ppm.. still leaving the same carbon in I waited another 22 hours and it was at 1.62ppm.. So after 45 hours it only dropped by 0.05ppm... and I put this in a large mesh bag so it's super loose and put it right in front of a powerhead so its tumbling very nicely...
Yep^^^^. I have run carbon during copper (by accidentally not removing the filters) and didn't have much drop at all. That's how I knew.
 
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So, looks like the flame angelfish and swallow tail angelfish are developing HLLE.. No one else is showing signs of it.. my guess it's due to the copper treatment?
I read somewhere that adding vitamin C, Complex B vitamins and selcon vitamins directly into the water have been found to help heal HLLE? Any input on that?
 

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So, looks like the flame angelfish and swallow tail angelfish are developing HLLE.. No one else is showing signs of it.. my guess it's due to the copper treatment?
I read somewhere that adding vitamin C, Complex B vitamins and selcon vitamins directly into the water have been found to help heal HLLE? Any input on that?
IMO Zoecon is the best supplement to soak foods in to help aid HLLE. Good water quality, high quality foods (not flakes or pellets typically), and soaking foods in vitamins is your best bet. I actually soak my fish food in selcon, zoecon, AND vita chem. I feed at least two different varieties of nori. Ocean nutrition green and red from @premiumaquatics is my go-to.
 

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Yep^^^^. I have run carbon during copper (by accidentally not removing the filters) and didn't have much drop at all. That's how I knew.
I run the stock filter inserts with carbon in the HOB in my QT because I have found that it has little to no affect on the copper level. I just check daily with the Hanna and add a few drops if needed. I lost two fish because of the API "test kit". I don't even see how those things could even be considered a viable option. The Hanna checker would have paid for itself had I received it in time to save just one of those fish.

I've had really good results with Fritz 9 bacteria for cycling my DT and ammonia control in my QT. It's only $28 gallon on Amazon.
 
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Hey everyone so, just an update, since the copper has been completely removed for some time now, I've noticed one of the anthias having white/pale stringy poop... she is the only fish I've noticed so far to have the white stringy poop.. @HotRocks @4FordFamily

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Feed Metroplex or GC+focus soaked foods for 14 days. For the white poop.

As far as the prolapse you can feed kanamycin but if the fish isn't eating anyway that would be hard to accomplish. Adding vitamins can also help as it will usually correct itself.
 
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So, I should dose the water with general cure and feed Metroplex + Focus soaked foods? Or ONLY soak the foods in the medications?

Also, you said add vitamins.. into the water directly? If so, what vitamins? Vitamin C, B-complex, etc?
 

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So, I should dose the water with general cure and feed Metroplex + Focus soaked foods? Or ONLY soak the foods in the medications?

Also, you said add vitamins.. into the water directly? If so, what vitamins? Vitamin C, B-complex, etc?

Everything into food.

Use Metroplex + Focus + vitamins
Or GC + Focus + vitamins

Kanaplex can be dosed into water to prevent the prolapse from becoming infected.
 

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