Plumbing a sump...Am I missing anything?

3D Reefin'

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Hello R2R Members,

I am looking into plumbing a 40gallon w/ a 20 gallon sump. I usually set up my sump high and off to the side, so I don't have to reach down and service it, but in this case, I do not have room. So the sump has to go under the DT.

The aquarium is going to house 5 small fish, and no more than 10 soft/LPS corals.

My plumbing features the following.
1" drains
1/2" returns
Return pumps in the model are Sicce Syncra 1.0 - I think I am going to have to upgrade to a 2.0 or bigger to avoid losing too much flow.
Overflow is 8" W, 3D printed and silicone to glass.

The length of the return plumbing, from the pump to the tank loc-line outputs is approx 40" long.

So my questions are:

Do you guys run valves on the return lines?

For a tank this size, are 3/4" returns recommended or is 1/2" sufficient?

Please feel free to make any suggestions/recommendation.










40 Gallon Plumbing Assembly.JPG
40 Gallon Plumbing Assembly 2.JPG
40 Breeder Center Overflow.JPG
 

Greg P

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Sorry I haven't read through your whole post.

What caught my eye is detrimental to your build.
You Cannot silicone acrylic to glass and expect it to hold long-term !!!!!

Re-think your plan
 

Greg P

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If the tank is glass, you'll need silicone and glass to construct the overflow.
You'll need to use bulkheads and plumbing between the tank and your printed parts.

Silicone and acrylic do not bond enough to hold aquariums together.
 

Hemmdog

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You need really want gate valves on the drains not ball valves, at least on the main drain. Look into eshopps S or M external overflows. I run the M on my 40b. I think you will like that a lot better than siliconing the overflow box to the tank like in your design. A for effort though!
 
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3D Reefin'

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You need really want gate valves on the drains not ball valves, at least on the main drain. Look into eshopps S or M external overflows. I run the M on my 40b. I think you will like that a lot better than siliconing the overflow box to the tank like in your design. A for effort though!
Thanks, I'll update the model to gate valves. I have looked at the Eshopps overflows, they are nice, but I want the screen to be removable and I have material to make the overflow.

I think I should have been more specific. The rear overflow box gets attached with bulkeads, the mounting holes can be seen in the model. I didn't include the bulkheads in the model, because they block the view. The surface skimmer/front overflow box gets attached with silicone.

Here is the overflow, the first print.

 

ROB2005

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Can you increase the diameter of the returns up to 3/4 or possibly 1” and maybe a bigger return pump?
 

Hemmdog

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Thanks, I'll update the model to gate valves. I have looked at the Eshopps overflows, they are nice, but I want the screen to be removable and I have material to make the overflow.

I think I should have been more specific. The rear overflow box gets attached with bulkeads, the mounting holes can be seen in the model. I didn't include the bulkheads in the model, because they block the view. The surface skimmer/front overflow box gets attached with silicone.

Here is the overflow, the first print.

Oh cool! Yeah then just switch up the main drain’s valve to a gate valve and you should be good to go! If you need to control flow on your secondary drain you will want a gate valve on that too. Ball valves are designed more for an on/off function than a flow regulator. I learned that the hard way by using a ball valve on one of my returns, I am constantly fighting with that thing and the flow rate randomly changes, should of used a gate valve or designed it differently.. lol
 
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Hemmdog

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I can increase the returns pumps and plumbing to any size, I just would like to know if its necessary or what is common for a 40 gallon aquarium?
1 inch drain
3/4 returns
Is most common, I have 1 inch returns and they are too big, it was a bad idea.
 
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3D Reefin'

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Oh cool! Yeah then just switch up the main drain’s valve to a gate valve and you should be good to go! If you need to control flow on your secondary drain you will want a gate valve on that too. Ball valves are designed more for an on/off function than a flow regulator. I learned that the hard way by using a ball valve on one of my returns, I am constantly fighting with that thing and the flow rate randomly changes, should of used a gate valve or designed it differently.. lol
Thanks for the tip on the valves.

Are you running a sump, if so what size return are you running on your 40gal? I originally bought the 1.0 pumps because I was going to run a AIO set up, but Ended with a sump in the bottom. So I'm looking at the bigger pumps because I don't think the 1.0 are going to cut it.
 

Hemmdog

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Thanks. I'll have a look at your build to see the plumbing and pumps you are running.
My build thread is mainky my 90 gallon, and recently my new vivarium, lol. But I run jebao dct 6000 on it as the return. Only on about half power. I use a trigger systems - emerald 26, sump. I like Spears for gate valves, pricey but great quality.
2D53ABED-7B41-40B4-AF1B-62A276A6B5F8.jpeg
 

Alemoki

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First off, I think the CAD design you've done looks phenomenal!

Issues I see with this design are to do with the 3D printed side. The dilemma is this, you will need to print the part with PETG as ABS will break down in the UV from your lights. Trust me, I did an overflow from ABS and 8 months later had to fix my overflow and install and acrylic one as the ABS became extremely brittle. Okay so print with PETG then problem solved? Well no, when you make prints with PETG you have no way of doing post processing on the part to make it seal and hold water 100%. Issue with this is that you then have the possibility of when a power cut occurs or you turn off your return, the drain will continue to micro leak and allow water to flow to the rear box (even if very slow) and this could flood your sump. You can combat this by drilling the holes higher up so that if this does happen it will stop once the tank level drops to the drill holes bottom edge. Finally, Gluing PETG to your glass tank is going to be next to impossible as nothing sticks to PETG unfortunately.

Personally, I would recommend making the inside overflow box out of acrylic with it having a back panel extra which gets sandwiched onto the glass using the bulkheads you plan to install and using silicone as a type of gasket.

Best of luck with this build bud... I will be following it along!
 
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3D Reefin'

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First off, I think the CAD design you've done looks phenomenal!

Issues I see with this design are to do with the 3D printed side. The dilemma is this, you will need to print the part with PETG as ABS will break down in the UV from your lights. Trust me, I did an overflow from ABS and 8 months later had to fix my overflow and install and acrylic one as the ABS became extremely brittle. Okay so print with PETG then problem solved? Well no, when you make prints with PETG you have no way of doing post processing on the part to make it seal and hold water 100%. Issue with this is that you then have the possibility of when a power cut occurs or you turn off your return, the drain will continue to micro leak and allow water to flow to the rear box (even if very slow) and this could flood your sump. You can combat this by drilling the holes higher up so that if this does happen it will stop once the tank level drops to the drill holes bottom edge. Finally, Gluing PETG to your glass tank is going to be next to impossible as nothing sticks to PETG unfortunately.

Personally, I would recommend making the inside overflow box out of acrylic with it having a back panel extra which gets sandwiched onto the glass using the bulkheads you plan to install and using silicone as a type of gasket.

Best of luck with this build bud... I will be following it along!
Thanks, I try to ad as much detail to the CAD models as time allows.

Nice catch on the micro leaks. That is something one must always consider and I did give that some thought. I print with PLA along with other plastics and had good long lasting results adhering it to glass with silicone. Never tried PETG though. Sometimes the trick is to modify your model to allow silicone to get into cavities that allow the silicone to "hold" onto the print.

The HOB filter for this set up out was printed in PLA.

 

AZMSGT

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Way to much plumbing for a 40G tank. You don't need all that to do the job and do it well. Keep it simple So when it comes to build and maintain this system it will take you half the time and money.

For this size tank 3/4" line is more than sufficient and allow great flow. I wouldn't use 1/2" If you need to slow down the flow do it from an adjustable pump not with valves.
1 main overflow line, With gate valve to allow adjustment.
1 emergency overflow
1 return line.
 

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Sorry but I dont have anything constructive to say... BUT YOUR 3D DESIGN IS CRAZY AWESOME!!! wish I knew how to do something like that for my mock-ups on my current build. I've been penciling everything and it looks crappy. And doesnt convey the right image/concept. Lol. Great job!
 

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