3D Printed Overflow (850GHP)

3D Reefin'

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Hello R2R Members,

Here is a overflow I'm printing for my 40 gallon system.

Features:

- 850 GPH

- Slim 1.25", occupying minimal space in display.

- Space for 2 - 1" drains.

- Lid to reduce noise and prevents fish from jumping in.

- Removable screen for easy cleaning.
Overflow.JPG
Overflow Ex.JPG
 
Top Shelf Aquatics

WallyB

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I have use PLA on components that do not see much light, but ABS and PETG also work.
I mean for things that will get Wet, Salt Creep.
PLA ok?

PETG Better?

ABS Best (from what I read, since it's used for thing like Water Bottles, even UnderWater Aquarium Oraments).

Are you saying the issue for Long term PLA exposure is LIGHT (ie SUNLIGHT), not Water?
 
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3D Reefin'

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I mean for things that will get Wet, Salt Creep.
PLA ok?

PETG Better?

ABS Best (from what I read, since it's used for thing like Water Bottles, even UnderWater Aquarium Oraments).

Are you saying the issue for Long term PLA exposure is LIGHT (ie SUNLIGHT), not Water?
If you are just starting out, play around with PLA. Its a easy material to work with. I have PLA components in my system that are dry, partially submerged and fully submerged for 2+ years, no issues. I think salt creep occurs on almost any material, just stay on top of your maintenance.

I have not seen any different results between PETG, ABS or PLA in a saltwater aquarium environment.

PLA is biodegradable, although from my research, the conditions that are required for PLA to break down will exceed your tank conditions, if you reach those conditions, its likely that nothing is alive in your aquarium.

One thing to note. Making water tight prints is tricky. For example, I printed a HOB filter for the 5 gallon bowl, first print had a pin hole. Eventually the filter would drain through that hole, but I tested the filter prior to using it, so I caught the issue. So make sure its water tight before putting into service.

Keep in mind that 3D printer filaments are thermoplastics. So don't expose the finished prints to high heat or hot water.
 

|Tom the Bomb|

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If you are just starting out, play around with PLA. Its a easy material to work with. I have PLA components in my system that are dry, partially submerged and fully submerged for 2+ years, no issues. I think salt creep occurs on almost any material, just stay on top of your maintenance.

I have not seen any different results between PETG, ABS or PLA in a saltwater aquarium environment.

PLA is biodegradable, although from my research, the conditions that are required for PLA to break down will exceed your tank conditions, if you reach those conditions, its likely that nothing is alive in your aquarium.

One thing to note. Making water tight prints is tricky. For example, I printed a HOB filter for the 5 gallon bowl, first print had a pin hole. Eventually the filter would drain through that hole, but I tested the filter prior to using it, so I caught the issue. So make sure its water tight before putting into service.

Keep in mind that 3D printer filaments are thermoplastics. So don't expose the finished prints to high heat or hot water.
My 3D printer's soooo old and it basically sucks , it works ok but not for detailed stuff like that, it works for printing simpler stuff,
I might get another one: Makerbot replicator+ or Ultimaker?
 
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3D Reefin'

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My 3D printer's soooo old and it basically sucks , it works ok but not for detailed stuff like that, it works for printing simpler stuff,
I might get another one: Makerbot replicator+ or Ultimaker?
I would get a Creality CR 10 mini (its not small). I have friends and co workers that had both of those printers you listed and they constantly had to tweak them. I got a CR 10 mini just to print tool box organizers and its makes better prints than the Makerbot and Ultimaker. Just dial in your settings in your post processor.

Out of the 9 printers I have, even the ones with all the bells and whistles (linear rails, auto level, etc), its definitely one of my favorites and its inexpensive.

The only thing I do maintenance wise is dust it off, clean the glass on the bed, and replace filament. I don't use any adhesion promoters on the glass, just keep the glass clean.

Runs about 5+hrs a day and repeats within 0.1mm and runs about .2mm bigger than the model. No issues since I got it new about 2 yrs ago, its a real work horse.
 

|Tom the Bomb|

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I would get a Creality CR 10 mini (its not small). I have friends and co workers that had both of those printers you listed and they constantly had to tweak them. I got a CR 10 mini just to print tool box organizers and its makes better prints than the Makerbot and Ultimaker. Just dial in your settings in your post processor.

Out of the 9 printers I have, even the ones with all the bells and whistles (linear rails, auto level, etc), its definitely one of my favorites and its inexpensive.

The only thing I do maintenance wise is dust it off, clean the glass on the bed, and replace filament. I don't use any adhesion promoters on the glass, just keep the glass clean.

Runs about 5+hrs a day and repeats within 0.1mm and runs about .2mm bigger than the model. No issues since I got it new about 2 yrs ago, its a real work horse.
How about Prusa?
I have a JGaurora Z-603S and an A5 theyre kinda bad as theyre old\
but thx for the suggestions
 

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