Poll: Preferred DI Setup

What is your preferred DI setup? (multiple choices okay)

  • Single mixed bed

    Votes: 77 19.2%
  • Dual mixed bed

    Votes: 132 32.9%
  • Mixed bed with Cation

    Votes: 4 1.0%
  • Mixed bed with Anion

    Votes: 4 1.0%
  • Triple - Mixed bed with Cation and Anion

    Votes: 45 11.2%
  • Other - Explain in thread

    Votes: 3 0.7%
  • I buy Premade Cartridges

    Votes: 97 24.2%
  • I customized my mix based on my source water conditions

    Votes: 5 1.2%
  • I did not customize my mix based on my source water conditions

    Votes: 34 8.5%
  • I do not have a RODI unit

    Votes: 39 9.7%

  • Total voters
    401

dbl

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As a follow up to yesterday's poll, it appears that 60% of the respondents prefer to pack their own DI when when it comes time to replace it. At the suggestion of @Crabs Mcjones, let's look at the preferred methods of setting up your DI. Are you using one DI resin or creating your own combination to deal with your specific water conditions. Multiple answers allowed in this poll.
 

Crabs McJones

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I'm currently running dual di canisters both containing mixed bed resins :)
Looking to do BRS's suggestion in the future and run three cartridges of anion, cation, and then mixed bed.
 
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madweazl

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Our tap water is typically 2tds or below and DI typically lasts 10+ months here so I haven't had much reason to use more than one canister or swap from a mixed solution like BRS color changing resin.

Edit: the poll doesn't support multiple options.
 

Reeferdood

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Our tap water is typically 2tds or below and DI typically lasts 10+ months here so I haven't had much reason to use more than one canister or swap from a mixed solution like BRS color changing resin.

Edit: the poll doesn't support multiple options.
Dang,
your local water supplier is awesome!
Do you live near a spring feed or lake???
 

Adele

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As @Crabs Mcjones said, I too am interested in the BRS 2 or 3 canister DI resin set up to see if that helps reduce waste. Then I won't have to be overly concerned when the brown gets closer to the top, to where I have to literally watch my tds meter to make sure I stop the collection as quickly as possible before it goes to 1. I have 8-9 tds coming in but due to high co2 I still only get about 100 gal per single mixed bed canister. :confused:
 

siggy

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@madweazl @Adele Just curious, Large city, rural, well??? that sounds too low. Is your local system new or old. The pipes have to be leaching something, or the chem's to cote them (FLINT MI ) would need to be removed.
 

Crabs McJones

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@madweazl @Adele Just curious, Large city, rural, well??? that sounds too low. Is your local system new or old. The pipes have to be leaching something, or the chem's to cote them (FLINT MI ) would need to be removed.
I think @Adele meant they had 8-9 tds going into their DI after coming out of their ro membrane :)
Edit: I may or may not have misunderstood the question :p
 
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Ichthus1

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I am hoping to have the change to my system complete tonight. I had a 75 gpd system, with the drinking water upgrade. I ordered a new U bracket, installed an extra canister, 150 gpd upgrade and a booster pump on my 6 stage system. I need to finish hooking up the TDS meters and buy some of the new resin to get it complete. I am curious to see how it works. Is anyone else running this kind of setup right now? Do you think it was worth the hassle?

20180624_214654 (2).jpg
 

JoshH

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As @Crabs Mcjones said, I too am interested in the BRS 2 or 3 canister DI resin set up to see if that helps reduce waste. Then I won't have to be overly concerned when the brown gets closer to the top, to where I have to literally watch my tds meter to make sure I stop the collection as quickly as possible before it goes to 1. I have 8-9 tds coming in but due to high co2 I still only get about 100 gal per single mixed bed canister. :confused:

Have you ever thought of using a container to degas and remove the CO2?
 

JoshH

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@madweazl @Adele Just curious, Large city, rural, well??? that sounds too low. Is your local system new or old. The pipes have to be leaching something, or the chem's to cote them (FLINT MI ) would need to be removed.

It might sound very low but I've seen numerous reefers with 1-10 TDS coming out of there tap, it's really quite astonishing. One run through a single DI and they are all set

BTW @dbl loving these polls:)

And in keeping with it, I currently run single mixed bed but might change to dual just to get the most from my resin. Not that resin is exceptionally expensive but I feel better knowing I've used up everything before tossing it.
 
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madweazl

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@madweazl @Adele Just curious, Large city, rural, well??? that sounds too low. Is your local system new or old. The pipes have to be leaching something, or the chem's to cote them (FLINT MI ) would need to be removed.

I'm in northern VA. Fairly large city in a newer area. No clue what the rest of the infrastructure is like. The development we're in was built in 2000.

Edit: I used tap water on the initial fill of the 75g because I was impatient. Probably do the same for the 150g since my unit only produces 75g/day.

Edit 2: This out of the RO, not the tap. My bad.
 
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cracker

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I use what DI is on the shelf at my LFS.
Also What is anion & cation & what do these do? Never heard of this. Thanks
 

JoshH

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I use what DI is on the shelf at my LFS.
Also What is anion & cation & what do these do? Never heard of this. Thanks

Anion and Cation are the two different types of resins that make up your mixed resin. Each removes a different type of charged partical in your water which is what gets you to that magical 0 TDS. I'll link the BRS video that explains it much better than that:p

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/vide...ates-mixed-or-single-bed-di-resin-maybe-both/

And every video BRS has on RO/DI and resins, love there videos, always something new to learn.

https://aquarium.bulkreefsupply.com...ts=custom&uid=864875495&w=Resin&af=tab:videos
 
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Crabs McJones

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I use what DI is on the shelf at my LFS.
Also What is anion & cation & what do these do? Never heard of this. Thanks
anion and cation are what make up DI resin. Cation has a positive charge and Anion has a negative charge. It's most commonly used in a mixed bed (the blue resin) to attract different negatively and positively charged ions in your water. What has been happening lately is instead of running a mixed bed, people are running two cartridges, one with Anion and one with Cation to give the water more contact time with each resin, and then a mixed bed at the end to fully polish it off :)
 

Sleepydoc

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I currently have a single mixed bed canister but am planning on upgrading to either a dual mixed bed or triple cation/anion/mixed system. I think my tap water TDS is somewhere around 100 and once my system is warmed up the RO water is down to 1~2 TDS, but I'm thinking I may have a lot of CO2 in my water, because my canisters don't last nearly as long as one would expect. I had been thinking of upgrading my system to a dual mixed bed system anyway and then just was the BRS video describing how DI resin will start leaching some impurities even before the color changes completely and/or TDS starts to rise, so that basically solidified my decision. Cost wise, the only additional cost of doing a triple system with cation/anion beds is the cost of the canister. After that, the resin should be about the same or possibly cheaper, so I'll probably go with the triple system.
 

Looking for the spotlight: Do your fish notice the lighting in your reef tank?

  • My fish seem to regularly respond to the lighting in my reef tank.

    Votes: 94 75.8%
  • My fish seem to occasionally respond to the lighting in my tank.

    Votes: 15 12.1%
  • My fish seem to rarely respond to the lighting in my tank.

    Votes: 8 6.5%
  • My fish seem to never respond to the lighting in my tank.

    Votes: 1 0.8%
  • I don’t pay enough attention to my fish to notice if they respond to the lighting.

    Votes: 2 1.6%
  • I don’t have any fish in my tank.

    Votes: 2 1.6%
  • Other.

    Votes: 2 1.6%
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