Poor Man's Nutrients Control - Donovan's Nitrate Destroyer

[JGT]

Early on I had some clogs but not to the point where the flow was stopping, just less than normal. I could also see white slime coming out of the output nozzle. I would take a piece of RODI tubing and insert it up the output tubing and jostle it and more slime would come out and the flow would go back to normal. Since I’ve gotten past those early days not seeing any clogging. I am using 1/2”tubing for both inputs and outputs which probably helps. My flow is also pretty aggressive which could also help.
NO3 has been right around 8-9 down from 35-40 and I’m dosing 25 ml of diy NOPOX-50/50 mix of vodka and vinegar. I am also feeding my squad more than ever. They must think they hit the jackpot.

 

[McPuff]

NO3 has been right around 8-9 down from 35-40 and I’m dosing 25 ml of diy NOPOX-50/50 mix of vodka and vinegar. I am also feeding my squad more than ever. They must think they hit the jackpot.

And here I am happy to get my nitrates down to 60.

 

[JGT]

I noticed that I get a slight white haze on the front glass every couple of days. I presume that although the majority of the bacteria is contained within the DND, that some still escapes into the tank. Do others experience this ?

 

[McPuff]

I noticed that I get a slight white haze on the front glass every couple of days. I presume that although the majority of the bacteria is contained within the DND, that some still escapes into the tank. Do others experience this ?

This seems to be a common thing among DND users.

 

[McPuff]

Quick update, the reactor does get a little bit "clogged" now and then but I think it's more that the input line should be blown out once in a while. Otherwise, it seems to be running pretty smoothly and I think that now that the carbon source has been fully changed over (still using some vinegar) the bacterial community is also more stable so I have subsequently seen less clogging.

Anybody else have a new reactor going or planning to build one? Highly recommended if you need to control NO3. Patience is definitely key here but that's reefing in general. It took a few months for mine to really start churning and the change to vodka made a noticeable difference... but my system was very high nutrients. That said, if it can work for me, then it should work for any system. And it's pretty cool that you can build it yourself and the running costs are quite low. Build cost is up to you!

 

[blazn]

I noticed that I get a slight white haze on the front glass every couple of days. I presume that although the majority of the bacteria is contained within the DND, that some still escapes into the tank. Do others experience this ?

I saw some hazing (bacteria) on the glass when I first implemented my DND. Once it was dialed in and mostly on 'auto-pilot', I've never experienced any further haze.

 

[JGT]

Mines dialed in but still get a bit of bacteria haze. Takes a few days to accumulate so not a big deal. I’ve recently reduced my carbon dosing down to 12 ml a day so we’ll see if that helps.

 

[McPuff]

Mines dialed in but still get a bit of bacteria haze. Takes a few days to accumulate so not a big deal. I’ve recently reduced my carbon dosing down to 12 ml a day so we’ll see if that helps.

Are you dosing vodka or vinegar?

I don't see much of a film but the algae growth on the glass has slowed significantly.

 

[JGT]

Bit of both. DIY NoPox. Even have the output going into a filter sock. As I said, not a big deal as it’s every few days. Seems to have replaced the film algae I would get on the front glass. Going to see if I can get it to where I don’t have to dose NoPox at all. I’ve reduced it from 30 ml down to 12 ml and my NO3 is still between 10-15 so hopeful.

 

[JGT]

My nitrates keep dropping. I’m down to dosing 5ml a day and have upped the flow. If I eventually go down to not dosing at all, how will the bacteria in the DND survive without a carbon source. I see a few people have gotten to this point but am unsure what will continue to feed the bacteria.

 

[Dukereefnz]

I'm dosing 6mls vodka/ vinegar a day, clogs every now and then... I have a thing flexible stainless welding wire. Perfect for unblocking.
Nitrate sits constantly at 11

 

[sdreefer619]

Hello fellow reefers!.

I have been in the hobby for more than 3 years, the first 2 years was tough. Cyno, diatom, nuisance algae, high NO3 (120ppm at one time) and ich/velvet. I have tried several nutrient control method (poor man, so most of it were DIY project). GFO, water fall scrubber, cheato, caulerpa, purigen & DSB (I do have bigger sump before) and nothing works for me (partly due to my own fault, so if you experienced quite the opposite please do not spit on me, thank you). The tank looks terrible. Copepods was everywhere and that was the only good thing about my sump.

After extensive readings and brainstorming on several forums, I brave the storm and built my twin tower bacteria reactor and to my surprise it works like a charm. So, here we go...

When it comes to diatoms I have a microscope to figure out what it is and I combat it that way but I’m a nerd so I like to go the natural route

 

[McPuff]

Side question on phosphate: what is everyone using to control theirs? I am using BRS high capacity GFO right now to bring PO4 down. Thinking of switching to lanthanum when it's gets below 0.5.

 

[JGT]

Side question on phosphate: what is everyone using to control theirs? I am using BRS high capacity GFO right now to bring PO4 down. Thinking of switching to lanthanum when it's gets below 0.5.

Started with GFO. It worked but was too erratic. Would get spent fairly quickly and when I would swap out old for new it would really lower PO4. Was hard to know when the existing was also spent without doing a lot of testing.
Switched to LC. Much easier to get precise levels through dosing. I use 2LF Phosban. You dilute it 1:3 with RODI. I then dilute 100:1 to make 3000ml. Lasts a long time and I can control my PO4 between .03-.07.
Just be mindful that some people have issues with LC and tangs while others do not. Weird conundrum.

 

[McPuff]

Started with GFO. It worked but was too erratic. Would get spent fairly quickly and when I would swap out old for new it would really lower PO4. Was hard to know when the existing was also spent without doing a lot of testing.
Switched to LC. Much easier to get precise levels through dosing. I use 2LF Phosban. You dilute it 1:3 with RODI. I then dilute 100:1 to make 3000ml. Lasts a long time and I can control my PO4 between .03-.07.
Just be mindful that some people have issues with LC and tangs while others do not. Weird conundrum.

The tangs are my concern. I wonder if this is purely based on the dosage. The same can be true for low quality carbon...

 

[JGT]

The tangs are my concern. I wonder if this is purely based on the dosage. The same can be true for low quality carbon...

There doesn’t seem to be any rhyme or reason as to when it will affect fish. I dose into a 10 micron sock sitting in a 200 micron sock. It then goes through my skimmer and then a sponge before it reaches my return. I have no issues. But others have done similar and have issues and others dose right into the DT and have no issues. Go figure.

 

[McPuff]

There doesn’t seem to be any rhyme or reason as to when it will affect fish. I dose into a 10 micron sock sitting in a 200 micron sock. It then goes through my skimmer and then a sponge before it reaches my return. I have no issues. But others have done similar and have issues and others dose right into the DT and have no issues. Go figure.

Ok, assuming you have a partitioned sump? I know some people dose LaCl directly into their skimmer. Honestly it makes me nervous to dose LaCl but it is likely less problematic than GFO.

 

[JGT]

Ok, assuming you have a partitioned sump? I know some people dose LaCl directly into their skimmer. Honestly it makes me nervous to dose LaCl but it is likely less problematic than GFO.

I do. FWIW, I would recommend you stick with LC intended for aquariums. While not absolute, seems people had issues with products intended for swimming pools.

 

[McPuff]

I do. FWIW, I would recommend you stick with LC intended for aquariums. While not absolute, seems people had issues with products intended for swimming pools.

Absolutely! I have a friend that uses brightwell and it has worked well for him. I may try the same.

 

[sdreefer619]

To control nutrients. Water changes more often if they’re high. If you have socks, change them every 3 days.