"Preemptive" Reef Chemistry

[Bear22]

To the Reef Chemistry Experts,

Seems that every reef I've kept in the past has always had the same phenomena: Low pH, low alkalinity. Well, my newest project with a nano reef (11 gallon) seems to be on that same glidepath (go figure).

I am in the process of cycling a new tank and initial parameters of pH and alk are coming in low (e.g., pH = 7.3; alk at 6.8 dkH). My salt mix is TM Pro. I'd like to get the pH closer to 8 and the alkalinity closer to the 7.5 range as advertised on the TM parameters for this salt mix.

First question; are these parameters likely to change as the cycling process progresses?

If everything remains the same post cycling and the need for dosing to boost these ranges what would be a good starting place in terms of dosing products to explore?

I like to keep things simple; meaning no automated dosing, no kalk reactors, no CO2 scrubbers, etc.

Cost is a secondary issue. I am looking for something for ease of use and consistency. Also, my plan for this reef is a weekly 10% (minimum) water change.

Thanks Much!
G

 

[tritonpower]

All for reef would work great although kalk would have a bigger pH boost but it is more complicated to dose. I use all for reef for my smaller tanks and early on you may only need to to dose it 2-3 times per week in small amounts. just check alk regularly and figure out how much you need.

 

[Bear22]

All for reef would work great although kalk would have a bigger pH boost but it is more complicated to dose. I use all for reef for my smaller tanks and early on you may only need to to dose it 2-3 times per week in small amounts. just check alk regularly and figure out how much you need.

I haven't tested for calcium or magnesium (yet); TM Pro is supposed to have elevated levels of calcium and magnesium by design. What is the primary purpose of All for Reef? Calcium supplementation? Or is it for addressing pH/alkalinity issues? I am looking for something that drills down more on the pH/alkalinity versus adding a dosing supplement that's buttressing stuff that I've already paid a premium for in TM Pro.

 

[painter1982]

Are you using ro/di water for your mix? I use same salt, it’s dkh is lower than stated. I adjust it before doing water changes. I also dose AFR daily to maintain alkalinity.

 

[Bear22]

Are you using ro/di water for your mix? I use same salt, it’s dkh is lower than stated. I adjust it before doing water changes. I also dose AFR daily to maintain alkalinity.

Yes I am making my own RO/DI water, currently mixed to 1.025 SG with TM Pro. What effect (if any) is AFR having on your pH?

 

[painter1982]

Are you using ro/di water for your mix? I use same salt, it’s dkh is lower than stated. I adjust it before doing water changes. I also dose AFR daily to maintain alkalinity.

Yes I am making my own RO/DI water, currently mixed to 1.025 SG with TM Pro. What effect (if any) is AFR having on your pH?

My ph is 8.1 to 8.3, some people dose in the morning at lights on because the bacterial action may lower ph. I dose every 2 hours. My ph is monitored by my Apex. The ph swing coincides with my light schedule. I don’t see any other effect on ph from AFR. My other parameters from AFR stay very stable (cal,mag). Maybe you could check ph with a different probe just to verify accuracy. I use a Hanna meter and it’s the same as my apex. Which is the same as my icp tests. Imo, dosing with a dosing pump is the simple method. My smaller quarantine tank is dosed with a cheap Amazon pump. My reef is dosed with a Versa. I wouldn’t ever go back to dosing be hand. So much more work.

 

[Bear22]

My ph is 8.1 to 8.3, some people dose in the morning at lights on because the bacterial action may lower ph. I dose every 2 hours. My ph is monitored by my Apex. The ph swing coincides with my light schedule. I don’t see any other effect on ph from AFR. My other parameters from AFR stay very stable (cal,mag). Maybe you could check ph with a different probe just to verify accuracy. I use a Hanna meter and it’s the same as my apex. Which is the same as my icp tests. Imo, dosing with a dosing pump is the simple method. My smaller quarantine tank is dosed with a cheap Amazon pump. My reef is dosed with a Versa. I wouldn’t ever go back to dosing be hand. So much more work.

Work is a "relative" concept. As I mentioned in the original post, my system is simple and I want to keep it that way. I l don't consider dosing a few ml of some solution into daily top off water (by hand) as burdensome.

The "hardest" part, but necessary part is the testing with respect to dosing. And testing is largely done by hand.

I am using a hand held Hanna ph probe with a 2 point calibration (4 and 7). I can't see the probe being any less accurate than say a lab grade Milwaukee probe. For alk I am using the Salifert kit.

Thanks for your insights!

 

[mook1178]

You stated the tank is cycling, so I am going to assume less than 4 weeks old.

More than likely your carbonate system is most likely still equilibrating with the rock.

Give it time to settle out. Keep up with your water changes.

I personally don't think dosing is necessary in the first 6 months of a tank. It needs time to mature biogeochemically

 

[Bear22]

You stated the tank is cycling, so I am going to assume less than 4 weeks old.

More than likely your carbonate system is most likely still equilibrating with the rock.

Give it time to settle out. Keep up with your water changes.

I personally don't think dosing is necessary in the first 6 months of a tank. It needs time to mature biogeochemically

Yep, less than 4 weeks old. It's why i prefaced the thread title with the term "preemptive" with respect to dosing chemistry. Suffice to say; "what would be a path/strategy in case the chemistry doesn't optimize (to some degree) post cycling.

 

[mook1178]

I was just answering your first question I guess really.

And implying but not explicitly stating, that check again in 6 months. I think preemptive has a role in learning, but be open to changing your ideas when it is actually time to consider dosing. 6 months is the earliest I would even think any messing with the tank chemistry and only of there are a lot of calcifying activity in your tank.

You can keep pH up by opening a window in that time

 

[mook1178]

Work is a "relative" concept. As I mentioned in the original post, my system is simple and I want to keep it that way. I l don't consider dosing a few ml of some solution into daily top off water (by hand) as burdensome.

The "hardest" part, but necessary part is the testing with respect to dosing. And testing is largely done by hand.

I am using a hand held Hanna ph probe with a 2 point calibration (4 and 7). I can't see the probe being any less accurate than say a lab grade Milwaukee probe. For alk I am using the Salifert kit.

Thanks for your insights!

Also if you are only doing a 2 point calibration use 7 and 10. That covers your target range of ~8.0.

I would not trust your calibration for anything over 7.0

 

[Bear22]

Also if you are only doing a 2 point calibration use 7 and 10. That covers your target range of ~8.0.

I would not trust your calibration for anything over 7.0

Good catch

 

[painter1982]

My ph is 8.1 to 8.3, some people dose in the morning at lights on because the bacterial action may lower ph. I dose every 2 hours. My ph is monitored by my Apex. The ph swing coincides with my light schedule. I don’t see any other effect on ph from AFR. My other parameters from AFR stay very stable (cal,mag). Maybe you could check ph with a different probe just to verify accuracy. I use a Hanna meter and it’s the same as my apex. Which is the same as my icp tests. Imo, dosing with a dosing pump is the simple method. My smaller quarantine tank is dosed with a cheap Amazon pump. My reef is dosed with a Versa. I wouldn’t ever go back to dosing be hand. So much more work.

Work is a "relative" concept. As I mentioned in the original post, my system is simple and I want to keep it that way. I l don't consider dosing a few ml of some solution into daily top off water (by hand) as burdensome.

The "hardest" part, but necessary part is the testing with respect to dosing. And testing is largely done by hand.

I am using a hand held Hanna ph probe with a 2 point calibration (4 and 7). I can't see the probe being any less accurate than say a lab grade Milwaukee probe. For alk I am using the Salifert kit.

Thanks for your insights!

The ph tester needs calibrated with 7 and 10. Not 4 and 7, your testing higher ph water, not hydroponics low ph water.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

Yes I am making my own RO/DI water, currently mixed to 1.025 SG with TM Pro. What effect (if any) is AFR having on your pH?

AFR tends to have a small pH lowering effect.

But either your pH is inaccurate (most likely), or your aeration is inadequate or your house is dangerously filled with CO2.