Problem: I just came from the lumber yard...

[Kodski]

Just looking at this thread. Sounds like you are getting some good advise.

The metal powder coated stand would be more cost effective. Now if you have a saw, drill, a straight edge, and have experience with building with wood. You should have no problem building a stand.

This most important part of build a stand is to have solid corners, were most of the weight of the system rests, the support for the center of the tank. If you are going to place a large sump under the stand this is were it get tricky with support and having the right design makes all the difference.

The plywood I am seeing of late is not the best, even cabinet grade.

Unfortunately, all wood quality has gone down overall. But even so, plywood is still loads stronger than dimensional lumber.

Also, how do you figure a powder coated metal stand is more cost effective? Metals prices are nuts currently.

 

[EeyoreIsMySpiritAnimal]

Yes, a removable brace is an option. But don't you think it looks nicer as a completely open front? My refugium is as much of a show piece as my tank. I think it's nice to look at all the critters at work from time to time.

That is a good point. My stand is closed and my sump is nothing that would make the cover of good housekeeping, lol.
Mine is more functional with a small fuge chamber.

 

[jsker]

Unfortunately, all wood quality has gone down overall. But even so, plywood is still loads stronger than dimensional lumber.

Also, how do you figure a powder coated metal stand is more cost effective? Metals prices are nuts currently.

Solid hard wood is wood and always will be, I have not noticed any quality difference with lumber, maybe less wides in a unit.

FYI, the price is also coming down from a year ago.

Plywood is less expensive to build large surface areas with, but not stronger then wood. Most plywood at the big box stores, is 7 to 9 ply were cabinet good cabinet ply is 12 to 15 layers, that is if you can find good cabinet ply. The last last cabinet grade plywood I brought in last week was sub quality. I still had to use the plywood for a job because supply if one can find plywood or month out till the next delivery. Your better off laminating two 4/4 white oak boards together then using plywood right now.

For example this stand is all 3/4 wood with a 1/2 birch plywood back the two center supports that are 3/4 x2 birch plywood no glue for movement.

Build Thread - My 72 Bowfront Build Revised Thread

A little history: I have had a few fresh water tanks and have had 3 salt water setups to date. Is a move tank, considering a setup? The tanks were in different cities 35 gal and a 150 in St. Louis. I had my moving tank, a 75 oceanic. That tank was in Chicago, New York, Boston, Florida. I...

www.reef2reef.com

A powder coated stand is a much easier build, which in turn is less material and labor using simple joinery for a lower cost.

 

[Kodski]

Solid hard wood is wood and always will be, I have not noticed any quality difference with lumber, maybe less wides in a unit.

FYI, the price is also coming down from a year ago.

Plywood is less expensive to build large surface areas with, but not stronger then wood. Most plywood at the big box stores, is 7 to 9 ply were cabinet good cabinet ply is 12 to 15 layers, that is if you can find good cabinet ply. The last last cabinet grade plywood I brought in last week was sub quality. I still had to use the plywood for a job because supply if one can find plywood or month out till the next delivery. Your better off laminating two 4/4 white oak boards together then using plywood right now.

For example this stand is all 3/4 wood with a 1/2 birch plywood back the two center supports that are 3/4 x2 birch plywood no glue for movement.

Build Thread - My 72 Bowfront Build Revised Thread

A little history: I have had a few fresh water tanks and have had 3 salt water setups to date. Is a move tank, considering a setup? The tanks were in different cities 35 gal and a 150 in St. Louis. I had my moving tank, a 75 oceanic. That tank was in Chicago, New York, Boston, Florida. I...

www.reef2reef.com

A powder coated stand is a much easier build, which in turn is less material and labor using simple joinery for a lower cost.

I feel it important to note here for OP and others, you're talking dimensional HARDWOOD lumber, a completely different world. What I said, really is only applicable with your standard builder's lumber which are made out of some sort of pine which OP original question was based around.

Yes, of course a hardwood like solid oak is going to be stronger, but when comparing the price of 4/4 oak vs 3/4" plywood, I don't see any validity to what you're saying. If you break down 4/4 white oak and 3/4" birch veneer plywood down to their a per board foot just to compare. White oak is around $10 per board ft, while a sheet of 3/4" birch veneer plywood calculates down to under $3 per board ft. My point being, why recommend something that costs over 3 times more, when plywood is PLENTY strong for the application.

A powder coated stand is only easier to build if you have the proper tools to do so, which many do not. In this case, OP doesn't have a table saw so I'm guessing he won't have a welder. Even if he did, the powder coating would cost several hundred dollars to have done. Again, steel stands are very strong VS their overall cost, I'm not disagreeing there. I'm just trying to point out that you're recommending something that costs way more than a plywood stand, where the added strength is not needed.

I'm not trying to start an argument here, again, I agree with what you're saying, but I just don't see your advise being the correct advise for this situation.

 

[jsker]

I feel it important to note here for OP and others, you're talking dimensional HARDWOOD lumber, a completely different world. What I said, really is only applicable with your standard builder's lumber which are made out of some sort of pine which OP original question was based around.

Yes, of course a hardwood like solid oak is going to be stronger, but when comparing the price of 4/4 oak vs 3/4" plywood, I don't see any validity to what you're saying. If you break down 4/4 white oak and 3/4" birch veneer plywood down to their a per board foot just to compare. White oak is around $10 per board ft, while a sheet of 3/4" birch veneer plywood calculates down to under $3 per board ft. My point being, why recommend something that costs over 3 times more, when plywood is PLENTY strong for the application.

A powder coated stand is only easier to build if you have the proper tools to do so, which many do not. In this case, OP doesn't have a table saw so I'm guessing he won't have a welder. Even if he did, the powder coating would cost several hundred dollars to have done. Again, steel stands are very strong VS their overall cost, I'm not disagreeing there. I'm just trying to point out that you're recommending something that costs way more than a plywood stand, where the added strength is not needed.

I'm not trying to start an argument here, again, I agree with what you're saying, but I just don't see your advise being the correct advise for this situation.

I like different opinions, then one can make there own decisions going forward.

Again, steel stands are very strong VS their overall cost, I'm not disagreeing there. I'm just trying to point out that you're recommending something that costs way more than a plywood stand, where the added strength is not needed.

I own a custom millwork, trust me on this. I am buying 4/4 flat sawed white oak for $2.74 bf, quatersawn for $3.67 bf. A sheet of raw 3/4 birch is $64 or $2 a bf this week, down from $85.00 and I am still recommending metal with a powder coat over wood. Oh, i forgot the finish and time to lay down a nice finish. I went with a natural oil finish on the example I posted.

A straight edge, two claps and a skill saw, pocket hole jig and the know how. One can build a lot. I used to build with the above all the time.





80/20 is another route

 

[Dom]

Thinking about things and it occurred to me...

If Red Sea can provide an unassembled particle board stand for their tanks, there is no reason why a properly constructed plywood stand can't do the same.

 

[Dom]

I feel it important to note here for OP and others, you're talking dimensional HARDWOOD lumber, a completely different world. What I said, really is only applicable with your standard builder's lumber which are made out of some sort of pine which OP original question was based around.

Yes, of course a hardwood like solid oak is going to be stronger, but when comparing the price of 4/4 oak vs 3/4" plywood, I don't see any validity to what you're saying. If you break down 4/4 white oak and 3/4" birch veneer plywood down to their a per board foot just to compare. White oak is around $10 per board ft, while a sheet of 3/4" birch veneer plywood calculates down to under $3 per board ft. My point being, why recommend something that costs over 3 times more, when plywood is PLENTY strong for the application.

A powder coated stand is only easier to build if you have the proper tools to do so, which many do not. In this case, OP doesn't have a table saw so I'm guessing he won't have a welder. Even if he did, the powder coating would cost several hundred dollars to have done. Again, steel stands are very strong VS their overall cost, I'm not disagreeing there. I'm just trying to point out that you're recommending something that costs way more than a plywood stand, where the added strength is not needed.

I'm not trying to start an argument here, again, I agree with what you're saying, but I just don't see your advise being the correct advise for this situation.

Sorry, I didn't mean to give the impression that I don't own a table saw. But it is a cheapie Craftsman that stands alone. It isn't built into a table top, which I think is essential when ripping full sheets of 3/4 ply.

 

[Kodski]

Sorry, I didn't mean to give the impression that I don't own a table saw. But it is a cheapie Craftsman that stands alone. It isn't built into a table top, which I think is essential when ripping full sheets of 3/4 ply.

Ah, well that case this is what I do. I rip everything down to a general dimension, maybe 1/4" larger in width and length, with a skill saw to make it much easier to handle on the table saw. Then what you'll want to do is run one side of each piece through the table saw, but cut it down to the final dimension. You're just looking to make a nice straight line. Then once all the pieces have a straight edge, set the saw to the final width and run everything through again. Then cut everything to final length. Its more work yes, but this will ensure everything is a nice and square which will mean joints have the full possible contact for weight transfer. Also it will help with assembly as its a lot easier to make a square joint when the wood itself is square.

One thing to note, I personally like to rough cut everything, then laminate or glue everything together BEFORE it goes through the table saw. This will make it easier to glue up as everything doesn't need to be perfectly aligned during glue up. Also, much easier to cut glue drips and smears off than to sand them off. In general, its a better order of operations.

 

[Kodski]

Thinking about things and it occurred to me...

If Red Sea can provide an unassembled particle board stand for their tanks, there is no reason why a properly constructed plywood stand can't do the same.

Exactly

 

[sfin52]

Mine is 2x6 wrapped or framed with 2x4s lol we literally did put a Porsche 914 on it lol

Pics or it never happened

 

[Kodski]

I like different opinions, then one can make there own decisions going forward.


I own a custom millwork, trust me on this. I am buying 4/4 flat sawed white oak for $2.74 bf, quatersawn for $3.67 bf. A sheet of raw 3/4 birch is $64 or $2 a bf this week, down from $85.00 and I am still recommending metal with a powder coat over wood. Oh, i forgot the finish and time to lay down a nice finish. I went with a natural oil finish on the example I posted.

A straight edge, two claps and a skill saw, pocket hole jig and the know how. One can build a lot. I used to build with the above all the time.





80/20 is another route

Right right, I get the presenting the options thing.

I guess another thing to consider is while you can get flat sawed white oak for that absurdly great price, most of us are going to end up paying $10-$12 bf for it. In my area (Wisconsin) from local lumber stores, its closer to $15 bf and from lumber mills, $8-$10 bf if you know where to look.

 

[kingoftheHiLLpeople]

Pics or it never happened

Let me look and will oblige!

 

[kingoftheHiLLpeople]

Pics or it never happened

So it apparently didnt happen because i dont have a pic. Going out to the shop tomorrow to see if my buddy Matt has a pic. lol

 

[kingoftheHiLLpeople]

Pics or it never happened

Nobody has pics I checked today. Not wife, not Matt, and i dont. In slight fairness to me (if you will) i am horrible at taking pictures - especially of this tank/build. Sorry @sfin52.

 

[sfin52]

Nobody has pics I checked today. Not wife, not Matt, and i dont. In slight fairness to me (if you will) i am horrible at taking pictures - especially of this tank/build. Sorry @sfin52.

It's OK I would have loved to see that. I do believe you put a car on the stand

 

[kingoftheHiLLpeople]

It's OK I would have loved to see that. I do believe you put a car on the stand

It was just a bit of a car lol. There are 9 in various states of repair (disrepair) lol. Convinced the misses but to be honest it made me nervous.

 

[Dom]

Exactly

Okay... so, I have one more question...

I really do dig the plywood stand concept. And ripping it down to 4" strips using a circular saw for rough cut and then running the strips through the table saw for the finishing cuts but...

I found 1 x 4 x 8 Poplar at a reasonable price. Can I use this in the same way I would use plywood; increasing its strength by gluing and clamping multiple boards together?

I understand that it still won't be as strong as ply as 3/4 inch ply as it is composed of multiple layers. But by having multiple boards of poplar, I would be increasing strength by using multiple layers of it. Is this correct?

 

[Wild1]

Personally, I wouldn't worry about using 1x6"s seeing how we totally overkill these diy stand builds with 2x4's. I built my old 100g stand with 4x4"s. I could probably rest a ford f-650 on it (eight 4x4's @ 4,300lbs capacity each).

 

[Kodski]

Okay... so, I have one more question...

I really do dig the plywood stand concept. And ripping it down to 4" strips using a circular saw for rough cut and then running the strips through the table saw for the finishing cuts but...

I found 1 x 4 x 8 Poplar at a reasonable price. Can I use this in the same way I would use plywood; increasing its strength by gluing and clamping multiple boards together?

I understand that it still won't be as strong as ply as 3/4 inch ply as it is composed of multiple layers. But by having multiple boards of poplar, I would be increasing strength by using multiple layers of it. Is this correct?

Technically yes you could use these poplar boards and glue them together. But going back to deflection, poplar boards are going to be more likely to deflect than plywood still and that is your greatest concern. Though, poplar will still be stronger than any 2x4 since it is a hardwood. Poplar, maple and oak are generally the 3 most common hardwood species you'll find. In a sense its a good, better, best in that order type of thing. In general, again, its still better than going with pine lumber.

 

[Dom]

Technically yes you could use these poplar boards and glue them together. But going back to deflection, poplar boards are going to be more likely to deflect than plywood still and that is your greatest concern. Though, poplar will still be stronger than any 2x4 since it is a hardwood. Poplar, maple and oak are generally the 3 most common hardwood species you'll find. In a sense its a good, better, best in that order type of thing. In general, again, its still better than going with pine lumber.

Ok... plywood it is. Now, to work out the logistics...