No worries, in that case you should be good to go. Just let the tank do it’s thing. The great this is that it’s up and running.
Problems cycling with Dr Tim's One and only
- Thread starter ReefingIsMyTherapy
- Start date
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IslandLifeReef
Valuable Member
I agree with @Reefahholic, just wait a bit and you should be fine. Yes, some people have said that 4 drops per gallon was too much, but if a half dose on day 1 gave you 0.8ppm, you should be ok.
handy summary to supplement reading the 30 page thread:
it is not required any longer to wait for a mix of wastewater to go to zero using non digital test kits. this usually takes 30-60 days, but you're paying for 3-5 day ready/all bottle bac can do that if meant for cycling see Dr. Reef's thread. So, if you want to wait 30 days up front, then just do a feed only cycle and dont waste money on buying bottle bac and then waiting for the feed-only wait time of 30 days. you're ripping yourself off this current way, using old cycling science training.
you did not create any condition that harms bac, they're hyperfed. adding the fish food boosts up the cycle implantation rate very fast, if you withhold feed carbon still gets in via natural contam routes (see the top of your fan blades in the living room) but fish food is a quicker boost and with extra nutrients added.
by waiting the pre-measured ammonia drop date from a cycling chart (10 days, we do 15 for insurance) and by already knowing how long your bottle bac takes to implant (Dr. Reef's thread) you can just do a big water change on the 18th and begin. you dont have to toil or dose or worry any longer.
nitrite no longer factors in any display cycle, and specifically cannot stall ammonia control though you see bottle bac sellers training us that way (it sells bottle bac)
this summary is how new cycling science works compared to old. there are 30 pages of ready tanks to inspect, send anyone there a chat to see how it works nowadays.
the #1 rule is that we do not have to wait for wastewater to clear to perfection, the bac implant on pre-known pre-measured dates and the extra timeframes we calc even cover the rare times you may have dead bacteria.
to add to links that demonstrate specified wait times, here's a 30 day feed only no bottle bac cycle:
www.reef2reef.com
takeaway from that read: to buy bottle bac, and still wait a month, is a royal self ripoff perpetuated at the start by bottle bac salesmen and then by peers on forums. when you buy bottled bac, you're ready when a cycle chart says you're ready and usually even on day 1. Your tank didnt even need all the ammonia dosed at the start...but since it was done anyway, we know how to get it ready by the 18th and the sum takeaway is this is how they run reef tank conventions and get everyone there on time vs 3/4ths of the entrants missing the start date with their display tanks.
reef forum cycle umps purvey buyer's training, dependent and scared buyer's training, only sellers at the conventions use sellers training and make the desired start date without fear without hesitation, and without loss.
the distinction between ripoff old cycling rules and in-control specific start date rules is the main benefit of applying new cycling science to any reef tank bringup. that, and it saves your fish by focusing on disease vs params you can't even measure correctly anyway using cheap gear.
it is not required any longer to wait for a mix of wastewater to go to zero using non digital test kits. this usually takes 30-60 days, but you're paying for 3-5 day ready/all bottle bac can do that if meant for cycling see Dr. Reef's thread. So, if you want to wait 30 days up front, then just do a feed only cycle and dont waste money on buying bottle bac and then waiting for the feed-only wait time of 30 days. you're ripping yourself off this current way, using old cycling science training.
you did not create any condition that harms bac, they're hyperfed. adding the fish food boosts up the cycle implantation rate very fast, if you withhold feed carbon still gets in via natural contam routes (see the top of your fan blades in the living room) but fish food is a quicker boost and with extra nutrients added.
by waiting the pre-measured ammonia drop date from a cycling chart (10 days, we do 15 for insurance) and by already knowing how long your bottle bac takes to implant (Dr. Reef's thread) you can just do a big water change on the 18th and begin. you dont have to toil or dose or worry any longer.
nitrite no longer factors in any display cycle, and specifically cannot stall ammonia control though you see bottle bac sellers training us that way (it sells bottle bac)
this summary is how new cycling science works compared to old. there are 30 pages of ready tanks to inspect, send anyone there a chat to see how it works nowadays.
the #1 rule is that we do not have to wait for wastewater to clear to perfection, the bac implant on pre-known pre-measured dates and the extra timeframes we calc even cover the rare times you may have dead bacteria.
to add to links that demonstrate specified wait times, here's a 30 day feed only no bottle bac cycle:
Build Thread - My SPS Waterbox Peninsula Mini 15
Hi all. Long time member (I think I joined right around when R2R started or took off years ago) but got out of the hobby for about 6 years and now I am back! I don't see many build threads for the PM 15 (mostly the 25) so thought I'd share my journey here. This post will be a bit behind...
www.reef2reef.com
takeaway from that read: to buy bottle bac, and still wait a month, is a royal self ripoff perpetuated at the start by bottle bac salesmen and then by peers on forums. when you buy bottled bac, you're ready when a cycle chart says you're ready and usually even on day 1. Your tank didnt even need all the ammonia dosed at the start...but since it was done anyway, we know how to get it ready by the 18th and the sum takeaway is this is how they run reef tank conventions and get everyone there on time vs 3/4ths of the entrants missing the start date with their display tanks.
reef forum cycle umps purvey buyer's training, dependent and scared buyer's training, only sellers at the conventions use sellers training and make the desired start date without fear without hesitation, and without loss.
the distinction between ripoff old cycling rules and in-control specific start date rules is the main benefit of applying new cycling science to any reef tank bringup. that, and it saves your fish by focusing on disease vs params you can't even measure correctly anyway using cheap gear.
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You’re adding the fish food because changing all 100 gallons is impractical, the addition of food substrate ground into powder and put into the display kicks the bacteria into gear to remove potential ammonia overage (that we’ve never seen on a seneye + dr tims bottle bac cycle) by the assigned start date. You’d still change as much water as you can to have less algae fuel, not for free ammonia.
if on the assigned start date after adding two pinches of feed today you run the cheap ammonia kit and dont get zero, and that concerns you, and you believe the reading, then for sure not any link supplied has been read and the nh4 vs nh3 factor mentioned page one in our link above was ignored. Wait till Feb 28th, keep old cycling science and buyers training going strong.
if on the assigned start date after adding two pinches of feed today you run the cheap ammonia kit and dont get zero, and that concerns you, and you believe the reading, then for sure not any link supplied has been read and the nh4 vs nh3 factor mentioned page one in our link above was ignored. Wait till Feb 28th, keep old cycling science and buyers training going strong.
LeftyReefer
2500 Club Member
I wouldn't worry too much OP. You've added bacteria and used live sand, so you should have plenty of bacteria in the tank now..... and you've added a food source for the bacteria, so you just need to wait and let nature take it's course.
Many previous reefers have also struggled with the ammonia drops... I did too. For some, the 4 drops seems to be OK, for others 4 drops results in an over dosage. could be differences in batch to batch or just the way we squeeze the bottle for drops... But don't worry, as long as you don't have fish in the tank yet, either way works out and cycles fine. You have all the ingredients in the tank for it to cycle, bacteria and food source.
Brandon did bring up a good point about disease prevention though... any new fish you add, if not quarantined, could be bringing unknown diseases/parasites into your tank, which often results in fish losses for new reefers. so you should definitely have a plan for adding fish and possibly QT'ing them before adding them to your tank. Buying fully QT'd fish is another possibility.
Good luck!
ReefingIsMyTherapy
Active Member
I just wanted to post an update regarding my tank.
My Red Sea kit has been showing zero ammonia for the last 3 days (yay!) but nitrites have stayed at 1 for 9 days in a row. I also tested for nitrates and I really can't tell whether it's 20 or 50.
I reached out to Dr Tim's support on Instagram and they suggested to do a 25% water change. I know that water changes are one of the most effective methods to reduce nitrates, and I want to assume it will get rid of some of the nitrites. I really want to hear from you and see what you guys think. Should I move forward with the water change or continue waiting until nitrites go to zero? I know this hobby is all about patience, but what was the point of using Dr Tim's if I have to wait a month or more when my tank was supposed to be ready for fish in 2 weeks?
BTW, I have a QT tank with a couple of clownfish. The QT tank has been up and running for at least 2 months. I have no plans to add fish to my DT without putting fish on my QT tank for at least 3 to 4 weeks for observation. I'm still debating whether to add any medication even when the fish looks healthy (mine are eating like pigs, roam around the tank and do everything that clownfish are known for).
My Red Sea kit has been showing zero ammonia for the last 3 days (yay!) but nitrites have stayed at 1 for 9 days in a row. I also tested for nitrates and I really can't tell whether it's 20 or 50.
I reached out to Dr Tim's support on Instagram and they suggested to do a 25% water change. I know that water changes are one of the most effective methods to reduce nitrates, and I want to assume it will get rid of some of the nitrites. I really want to hear from you and see what you guys think. Should I move forward with the water change or continue waiting until nitrites go to zero? I know this hobby is all about patience, but what was the point of using Dr Tim's if I have to wait a month or more when my tank was supposed to be ready for fish in 2 weeks?
BTW, I have a QT tank with a couple of clownfish. The QT tank has been up and running for at least 2 months. I have no plans to add fish to my DT without putting fish on my QT tank for at least 3 to 4 weeks for observation. I'm still debating whether to add any medication even when the fish looks healthy (mine are eating like pigs, roam around the tank and do everything that clownfish are known for).
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