Problems fishless cycling...

[MrFus]

Hi everyone, let me explain what is going on and hopefully you can help me to understand better my little problem... I'm trying to cycle my new tank (waterbox 20) using Dr. Tim one and Only fishless method, I have around 13-15 lbs of dry Marco rock and 20lb of ARAG-ALIVE reef sand, on the filter box I used instead of the plastic balls that came with the tank I use MarinePure media ceramic spheres (half of the box, should be 1qt according to the numbers on the packing)...

I was following the directions and all was going fine until I hit the day 6, ammonia levels started to go down according to the color changes on the Seachem Ammonia test kit on day 4 and 5 (from green blue to green yellow area on the color chart, something from 0.3 to 0.2 mg/l) but the API nitrite test are still going for the high value (still on the purple scale around 2.0 ppm), On day one before everything started I tested the water as a reference point and it was clear blue (matching the lowest level on the scale) so I know that the test works, I already rinsed the tube multiple times with RO/DI water to be sure that I don't have contamination and got the same results....

On day 6 I should have added more Ammonia if levels are below 1ppm, ammonia is under the 1ppm but nitrites are way over the 1ppm! I skipped day 6 and today day 7 after checking I can see that the color on the test is slightly lighter but still on the 2ppm mark... should I wait a couple more of days until it is under 1ppm before adding ammonia or should I add ammonia and just wait forever until nitrites are transformed on nitrates?

 

[brandon429]

you are fine. how many total days underwater are we here

Im going to post a link about new cycling rules

the old ones are in dire need of updates for obvious reasons...they don't indicate you are ready but two clues above stand out that you are. You paid money to be ready faster than the common wait times. Don't get tricked into both waiting, and paying, be exact in your cycle based on new rules.

Updated Cycling Science thread 2020

The number of parameters measured allowing your start date is now reduced from three parameters measured (ammonia nitrite nitrate) into only one-nh3 form free ammonia. We dont need three-parameter compliance anymore to begin reefing safely. we need know only that ammonia is controlled. you...

www.reef2reef.com

from that rule set we only need to variables from your cycle: has ammonia gone down (no zero required)

have you met the # of days on the actual bottle bac which is ten

isn't this handy~ no more tinkering with nitrate and nitrite, kick them out of the factor totally as we've already been doing and logging there many times.

consider how opposite your outcome would be if this was 2006: your cycle is stalled you need to buy more __________ you need to wait 30 days. you need to do __________ there was always a need for humans to allow this progression.


but in 2021 meeting submersion dates and lowering ammonia proves the bac were viable= can reef. click the example thread you'll see rolls of proven cycles.

Your entire focus should now be on fish disease preps, its not longer about cycling. Use what they use here to prevent massive loss of your first round of fish within 8 mos:

Fish Disease Treatment and Diagnosis

A forum for discussing treatment and diagnosing saltwater reef fish.

www.reef2reef.com

in other words if you add fish to this fish-ready reef and take no prevention measures, ~80% of them will meet the demise we can read for pages there. we can click right there above to see what works in the fish disease forum the best, all forms of critique in the recommend don't have any links to provide like that one.

 

[fishhead1973]

Hi everyone, let me explain what is going on and hopefully you can help me to understand better my little problem... I'm trying to cycle my new tank (waterbox 20) using Dr. Tim one and Only fishless method, I have around 13-15 lbs of dry Marco rock and 20lb of ARAG-ALIVE reef sand, on the filter box I used instead of the plastic balls that came with the tank I use MarinePure media ceramic spheres (half of the box, should be 1qt according to the numbers on the packing)...

I was following the directions and all was going fine until I hit the day 6, ammonia levels started to go down according to the color changes on the Seachem Ammonia test kit on day 4 and 5 (from green blue to green yellow area on the color chart, something from 0.3 to 0.2 mg/l) but the API nitrite test are still going for the high value (still on the purple scale around 2.0 ppm), On day one before everything started I tested the water as a reference point and it was clear blue (matching the lowest level on the scale) so I know that the test works, I already rinsed the tube multiple times with RO/DI water to be sure that I don't have contamination and got the same results....

On day 6 I should have added more Ammonia if levels are below 1ppm, ammonia is under the 1ppm but nitrites are way over the 1ppm! I skipped day 6 and today day 7 after checking I can see that the color on the test is slightly lighter but still on the 2ppm mark... should I wait a couple more of days until it is under 1ppm before adding ammonia or should I add ammonia and just wait forever until nitrites are transformed on nitrates?

Throw a piece of shrimp in there and add a bottle of bacteria starter and give it a month or two and test again nothing in reefing happens fast.

 

[MrFus]

you are fine. how many total days underwater are we here

Im going to post a link about new cycling rules

the old ones are in dire need of updates for obvious reasons...they don't indicate you are ready but two clues above stand out that you are. You paid money to be ready faster than the common wait times. Don't get tricked into both waiting, and paying, be exact in your cycle based on new rules.

Updated Cycling Science thread 2020

The number of parameters measured allowing your start date is now reduced from three parameters measured (ammonia nitrite nitrate) into only one-nh3 form free ammonia. We dont need three-parameter compliance anymore to begin reefing safely. we need know only that ammonia is controlled. you...

www.reef2reef.com

from that rule set we only need to variables from your cycle: has ammonia gone down (no zero required)

have you met the # of days on the actual bottle bac which is ten

isn't this handy~ no more tinkering with nitrate and nitrite, kick them out of the factor totally as we've already been doing and logging there many times.

consider how opposite your outcome would be if this was 2006: your cycle is stalled you need to buy more __________ you need to wait 30 days. you need to do __________ there was always a need for humans to allow this progression.


but in 2021 meeting submersion dates and lowering ammonia proves the bac were viable= can reef. click the example thread you'll see rolls of proven cycles.

Your entire focus should now be on fish disease preps, its not longer about cycling. Use what they use here to prevent massive loss of your first round of fish within 8 mos:

Fish Disease Treatment and Diagnosis

A forum for discussing treatment and diagnosing saltwater reef fish.

www.reef2reef.com

in other words if you add fish to this fish-ready reef and take no prevention measures, ~80% of them will meet the demise we can read for pages there. we can click right there above to see what works in the fish disease forum the best, all forms of critique in the recommend don't have any links to provide like that one.

Thanks for the info, I tested ammonia last night after work and it was like on the 0.1 mg/l mark, I just added the recommended amount of ammonium chloride based on the guide and I will test later on the afternoon to see the numbers...

 

[John Bolden]

Im doing the same thing.

 

[Azedenkae]

Hi everyone, let me explain what is going on and hopefully you can help me to understand better my little problem... I'm trying to cycle my new tank (waterbox 20) using Dr. Tim one and Only fishless method, I have around 13-15 lbs of dry Marco rock and 20lb of ARAG-ALIVE reef sand, on the filter box I used instead of the plastic balls that came with the tank I use MarinePure media ceramic spheres (half of the box, should be 1qt according to the numbers on the packing)...

I was following the directions and all was going fine until I hit the day 6, ammonia levels started to go down according to the color changes on the Seachem Ammonia test kit on day 4 and 5 (from green blue to green yellow area on the color chart, something from 0.3 to 0.2 mg/l) but the API nitrite test are still going for the high value (still on the purple scale around 2.0 ppm), On day one before everything started I tested the water as a reference point and it was clear blue (matching the lowest level on the scale) so I know that the test works, I already rinsed the tube multiple times with RO/DI water to be sure that I don't have contamination and got the same results....

On day 6 I should have added more Ammonia if levels are below 1ppm, ammonia is under the 1ppm but nitrites are way over the 1ppm! I skipped day 6 and today day 7 after checking I can see that the color on the test is slightly lighter but still on the 2ppm mark... should I wait a couple more of days until it is under 1ppm before adding ammonia or should I add ammonia and just wait forever until nitrites are transformed on nitrates?

According to Dr. Tim's guide you can add ammonia so long as nitrite is below 5ppm. So if it just measures around 2ppm you are safe to do so.

 

[MrFus]

So let me see if I understand, my main focus should be on the ammonia levels, adding NH4Cl to the tank and seen it going down will mean that the bacteria it's doing their job and processing the toxic solution, once that there is enough nitrosomonas taking care of keeping the levels really low constantly then a good first big water change should move the total Nitrite that have build down to a point were the growing colony of nitrobacters will be able to start processing it...

After that first water change I should be able to start introducing slowly biomass to the tank, there should be enough nitrosomas to take care of the waste produced by the first couple of fishes immediately and between the regular water changes and the growing nitrobacter colony on the tank the nitrite will be keep on check, after a couple of months will be enough nitrosomas, nitrobacter and denitrificans on the whole system to constantly keep ammonia, nitrites and nitrates under control though the week until the scheduled water change its done...

you are fine. how many total days underwater are we here

Im going to post a link about new cycling rules

the old ones are in dire need of updates for obvious reasons...they don't indicate you are ready but two clues above stand out that you are. You paid money to be ready faster than the common wait times. Don't get tricked into both waiting, and paying, be exact in your cycle based on new rules.

Updated Cycling Science thread 2020

The number of parameters measured allowing your start date is now reduced from three parameters measured (ammonia nitrite nitrate) into only one-nh3 form free ammonia. We dont need three-parameter compliance anymore to begin reefing safely. we need know only that ammonia is controlled. you...

www.reef2reef.com

from that rule set we only need to variables from your cycle: has ammonia gone down (no zero required)

 

[MrFus]

So today, on what should be the day number 8 on the cycling of the tank using Dr. Tim One and Only I tested ammonia Levels using the Seachem kit and found that the the test is reading between 0.0 and 0.01 (the sensor is totally yellow!!) compared with yesterday around the same time that it was reading between 0.2 and 0.3 (light green color on the sensor)...

I'm going to add again 4 drops of ammonium chloride per gallon and check again at 12hrs and 24hrs, if its back on the yellow color of the chart by the end of the 24hr period I'm going to do a partial water change and move on!!!

 

[MrFus]

I just finish to perform the second test of ammonia using the Seachem test... after 12hrs the concentration was on the 0.2 -0.3 mg/l range and around 24hrs the reading it's only in the 0.01-0.02 mg/l area.

The time frame calculated for fishless cycling using Dr. Tim's bacteria cocktail was spot on, the only discrepant detail is the nitrite readings, the ammonia is been processed as expected showing fast oxidation and transforming in nitrites, but the nitrites levels are not drooping on parallel with the ammonia ones...

I remember reading somewhere on the last couple of days that some of the bacteria that consumes the ammonia reproduces faster than the ones used to transform nitrites to nitrates, and that is the reason why you can see on some cycling tanks that experience ammonia spikes, followed by a spike on nitrites and the nitrate levels going up and requiring emergency water changes, so it looks like at this point for my nano the road its just do a 20-30% water change and I should be ready for my first couple of zoas!!!