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Fotocha

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So I’m running a 40 breeder with a 20 gallon sump. It’s been cycled for a few weeks.

I’m running a fuge with chaeto which at this point has grown to about a gallon. I just did my first water change a few days ago (5 gallons) and changed my filter socks the week before.

CUC 3 troc, 2 ceriths, 1 conch, 2 hermits, fire shrimp, 8 dwarf ceriths

I’m running carbon and purigen

I noticed all the rocks turned green and I noticed what could have been dynos forming . I immediately changed the carbon out (probably was a bad idea) which had been about a month old from my old tank. I’ve also got diatoms on the sand around the sand.

I’ve been testing (Red Sea Marine, Salifert Po) pretty regularly.

Just ran a full spectrum

Sal 1.026
NO2 0
NO3 0
Dkh 10
Ph 8.2
Po 0.03
Ammonia 0

I wasn’t expecting this, the nh4 has been 10ppm for the last few weeks.

Should I be concerned ? Should I ride it out?
 
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Ron Reefman

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If you are only a couple of weeks past the cycle, you are into the 'Uglies' phase. This is when algae and bacteria blooms are fairly common.

IMHO if you fight it, it just takes longer for the bloom to consume the nutrients that are in the tank allowing the bloom to happen. I'd let it go for the next 3 to 6 weeks. And by let it go, I don't mean do nothing. You can clean the glass and blow off the rocks so your overflow and filter sock collect some of the 'harvest'. But don't try to eliminate the bloom by adding more chemicals or changing lighting or anything like that. Once the algae and/or bacteria have used up most of the nutrients they are feeding on, they will die back and become controllable.

At least that's my take on it. Others may have very different ideas. Either way, good luck.
 

dantimdad

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If you are only a couple of weeks past the cycle, you are into the 'Uglies' phase. This is when algae and bacteria blooms are fairly common.

IMHO if you fight it, it just takes longer for the bloom to consume the nutrients that are in the tank allowing the bloom to happen. I'd let it go for the next 3 to 6 weeks. And by let it go, I don't mean do nothing. You can clean the glass and blow off the rocks so your overflow and filter sock collect some of the 'harvest'. But don't try to eliminate the bloom by adding more chemicals or changing lighting or anything like that. Once the algae and/or bacteria have used up most of the nutrients they are feeding on, they will die back and become controllable.

At least that's my take on it. Others may have very different ideas. Either way, good luck.


Words of true wisdom right here.

Just be patient.
 
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Fotocha

Fotocha

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If you are only a couple of weeks past the cycle, you are into the 'Uglies' phase. This is when algae and bacteria blooms are fairly common.

IMHO if you fight it, it just takes longer for the bloom to consume the nutrients that are in the tank allowing the bloom to happen. I'd let it go for the next 3 to 6 weeks. And by let it go, I don't mean do nothing. You can clean the glass and blow off the rocks so your overflow and filter sock collect some of the 'harvest'. But don't try to eliminate the bloom by adding more chemicals or changing lighting or anything like that. Once the algae and/or bacteria have used up most of the nutrients they are feeding on, they will die back and become controllable.

At least that's my take on it. Others may have very different ideas. Either way, good luck.

Thanks @Ron Reefman

Oh I totally agree it entering the ugly stage. But I’ve always been told being at dead zero is like opening the front door to dynos.

I personally have never had dynos before. I saw what I “believed” to be forming. Let me clarify I’m concerned with the readings....and I’m just wondering what I can do to proactively prevent dynos if anything? Pull my chemical filtration? As far as the rest of the algae “bring it on!”
 
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Ron Reefman

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Lets see if we can get more help as I'm not a dino expert by any stretch of the imagination. My nitrates and phosphates have been at zero for months!

#ReefSquad
 

Brew12

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and I’m just wondering what I can do to proactively prevent dynos if anything? Pull my chemical filtration? As far as the rest of the algae “bring it on!”
What chemical filtration are you running?
 
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Fotocha

Fotocha

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You should nor read 0 in NO3 (you write NH3 but I supose you mean NO3 - if not - measure NO3 too) if you have read 10 ppm as NH4 before.

Sincerely Lasse

Sorry that was a typo, NO3.

The readings have been in flux. I read it as high as 20ppm NH4, but the avg has been 10mg NH4. I've just never had EVERYONE Stop and read complete 0.
 

Brew12

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Rox 0.8 and Purigen
I would not run Purigen for now. Some dino's are normal, it happens in a new system. I like running the ROX but I would try to let the tank mature as naturally as possible as it goes through the ugly stage.
 
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Fotocha

Fotocha

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I ran a few more tonight

PH 8.0

NH3/NH4 0
NO2 0
NO3 0
 
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Fotocha

Fotocha

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I would not run Purigen for now. Some dino's are normal, it happens in a new system. I like running the ROX but I would try to let the tank mature as naturally as possible as it goes through the ugly stage.

I'll pull the Purigen out. @Brew12 I had a skimmer on order, should I wait before installing it? Water changes? Changing the Socks?
 

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I'll pull the Purigen out. @Brew12 I had a skimmer on order, should I wait before installing it? Water changes? Changing the Socks?
Nah, get the skimmer running if for no other reason than air exchange. I like to change my filter socks every 2 or 3 days.
 

Ron Reefman

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I'll pull the Purigen out. @Brew12 I had a skimmer on order, should I wait before installing it? Water changes? Changing the Socks?

Set up the skimmer, I don't think that will have much effect on your nitrate or phosphate levels... I don't think. Only do water changes if some water parameter gets out of order. Continue to change filter socks. Now I only have a 40g cube with a 40g sump/refugium and I end up changing my filter sock when the water starts to back up inside the sock so it's close to overflowing. That's about every 5 to 7 days.
 
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Fotocha

Fotocha

I have nightmares of jumping fish
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Set up the skimmer, I don't think that will have much effect on your nitrate or phosphate levels... I don't think. Only do water changes if some water parameter gets out of order. Continue to change filter socks. Now I only have a 40g cube with a 40g sump/refugium and I end up changing my filter sock when the water starts to back up inside the sock so it's close to overflowing. That's about every 5 to 7 days.

I ordered some more socks last night heh
 

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