Discussion in 'Battlecorals' started by Battlecorals, Sep 1, 2017.

PSA ON THE LAMENTATION OF THE OCD LED'ER

LED’s work, and they work well! This has been firmly established over the last few years. The once fiery debate over “do they” or “don't they”...
  1. BoomCorals

    BoomCorals www.boomcorals.com R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    He said he runs them at 80-100% but at 18-24" above the water. You even point this out. But then you go on to say don't try this at home, referring to the 80-100% but at normal height. But you're the one who made that statement of 80-100% at normal height so I'm not sure why you're blaming it on Adam. :p

    Also I don't know of any LED that doesn't have UV and blues, usually in abundance. So regardless of fiddling, you will be providing the necessary spectrum for growth. I think that's his entire point.

     

  2. Battlecorals

    Battlecorals Aquaculturist R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    Hi there,


    Thanks a lot for the post, really appreciate the feedback, and the links. I remember reading those myself and will confess some of the science ultimately went over my head then, just as much as it does today. My "hopelessly unscientific" jab at my self was quite sincere I assure you.

    The point I was ultimately trying to emphasize with the write up, was that with the advancements and adaptations in led technology, specifically in fixtures designed for aquarium use, (even since 2012 when the AA was written) that corals will adapt and thrive under just about any aesthetically pleasing combination of color settings you can come up with. The quality of the light is sufficient at any given aesthetic spectrum, and that people who are constantly adjusting their lights would be much better served to dial in an aesthetic that they enjoy viewing, and let the corals stabilize and adapt to that rather than satisfy some arbitrary need they believe the coral has.

    Please understand that I’ve had this conversation with may people desperate to know exactly what I personally am doing with my own lights, and all I can really tell them, is that I am doing essentially “nothing” with regard to any specific spectral setting or chasing. It is this observation over the years that led me to the simple conclusion that sps can and will thrive under any broad settings they are placed under as long a they are relatively consistent. There is definitely a human element in determining proper intensities. I’ve kept sps successfully for over a decade before I ever got my hands on a Par meter. An enormous part of reefkeeping, is observing whats going on in front of you, and determining what works and what does not, and reacting, as opposed to adhering to specific metrics.

    I really appreciate your input, and willingly admit this entire write up was built entirely on anecdote, and as I stated based solely on my own observations over the years on what has worked, in an effort to help people struggling with what they believe to be issues related to their leds specifically. The good news is that this simple advice has works for many people now over the last few years.

    I invite any and all criticism and/or analysis to the points I have made here with open arms. Please don't hesitate to chime in.
     
  3. welly18

    welly18 Member

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  4. welly18

    welly18 Member

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    This is exactly what I needed to read. I am guilty of messing with my lights daily knowing its probably not a great idea. Thanks again. Im headed to recovery now
     
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  5. Battlecorals

    Battlecorals Aquaculturist R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    That's excellent man. Thanks for the post. Feel free to come back and share any results!
     
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  6. Velcro

    Velcro Valuable Member

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    IMG_0756.JPG
     
  7. Velcro

    Velcro Valuable Member

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    Also, these photon v2's don't have much of a blinding glare when they are mounted 18-24". The G4 radions definitely do. Light spill is actually less than I had with an ATI t5 fixture.
     
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  8. Battlecorals

    Battlecorals Aquaculturist R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    I don't mind the bleed over so much on the prop system, but I agree its pretty well contained, but I will say that on a display, it is one of those things I absolutely can not stand. I'm a hood guy forever.:)
     
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  9. Bob E

    Bob E Active Member Partner Member 2019

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    personally I love consistency. I like the idea of finding or setting to what you like and leaving it there. There will always be times I think you will need to make changes mainly intensity . Like getting the coral Acclimated for example
     
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  10. Battlecorals

    Battlecorals Aquaculturist R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    Excellent info Tim! Thanks a lot for sharing. No Diy shop would be complete with out the salamander mug! I'll admit it was the mug on the heat sink that made me want that pic from you for this one :) Really ties everything together. In case anyone has been wondering, that is Tim's meticulous handiwork there.
     
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  11. Battlecorals

    Battlecorals Aquaculturist R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    He might have me drawn and quartered if he ever read my write up on phosphate!!;Nailbiting
     
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  12. Velcro

    Velcro Valuable Member

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    Phosphate? What's that?
     
  13. Battlecorals

    Battlecorals Aquaculturist R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    Now you're just playing with fire my friend
     
  14. simonsays

    simonsays Member

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    Totally agree with you on coral adapting to the light they are under! I went with an led strip for aesthetic purposes. LFS said I would not be able to keep SPS. Not only am I keeping SPS but the colors are getting better with time!
     
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  15. Waalker

    Waalker Member

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    Great write up indeed, I think "Stop messing with it" is the best advice you can give, and some I need to take as well. When they give you these fancy new toys and controllers with all the bells, what reefer doesn't go crazy trying to figure it out?!
     
  16. Opus

    Opus Valuable Member

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    Did the people that sued PFO actually ever come out with their own light?
     
  17. Battlecorals

    Battlecorals Aquaculturist R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    Man that is a really good question. My bet is they never even intended to but I don't know how it all ended up.
     
  18. simonsays

    simonsays Member

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    I
     
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  19. Grey Guy

    Grey Guy Well-Known Member

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    I still don't get it. Why is the fixture that can fry my corals, the right one for SPS, even though I run it at 75%., but a smaller fixture is not enough at 100%. I'm starting to think that if we all started taking PAR readings in our tanks, we could separate the truth from all the hype. But, as soon as all the way up is too much, then I will always be in doubt of the best settings. The article that started this thread is excellent, but without seeing PAR or following someone else's success, I think that LED spectrums will still keep me perplexed. Then there is the double speak. I can run my fixture at 55%, and at the same time, run all my color spectrums at 100%. So I ask the LFS, What percentage do you run your Radion?" I get the answer, "We run them all at 100%." But last-week, they said 100% would fry there corals. So I got confused.
     
  20. Battlecorals

    Battlecorals Aquaculturist R2R Supporter Gold Sponsor

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    I can hear the frustration in your post man truly, and trust me you are not alone. Thanks a lot for the post. Sps can be extremely adaptive and resilient, but the key is to do thing gradually. You can hit and acro with 800-1000+ par if its been acclimated properly for sure. And it may take a while to really fully adjust and thrive but it can and will. Of course, this is more of an extreme example and not really a suggestion. What will stress out sps tremendously is rapid and dramatic changes in intensity. Frags are certainly more resilient to this sort of thing, but more mature pieces may not do as well.

    When it comes to individual vs overall intensity, like those adjustment parameters found on the Radions for example, consider the spectrum sliders only as a means to dial in your visual aesthetic. The overall, is the measure of total intensity of that aesthetic Not much different than a sound mixer in many regards. Guitars, bass, voc's and drums can be blended any way through the individual volume/gain sliders to balance the sound the best, but the master volume still controls the total volume of the mix.

    If you have access to a par meter, a really good starting point would be to measure par at the surface, just above the water line and dry, at anywhere from 500-800. Using this standard, you can raise the light as high as possible to get better spread and coverage, and adjust the over all intensity to hit around 500-600 around the center of the light, just above the water line. Distance from the water is irrelevant then as long as you are hitting your target par but I really prefer to get that fixture as high as possible, especially in instances where bleed over isn't a issue. Not sure how deep your tank is but this should be ample enough to keep sps pretty and not to pale them out, but you're concerned at all, then go to the lower end on that and measure par at 500 at the surface. It's a starting point for sure, but just remember to make any changes gradual and give coral some tome to adapt.

    If you have any other questions at all, please don't hesitate to post.




    Edit: no idea why it's turning the word "target" to a hyperlink to the store automatically. I have tried to fix this twice now and it keeps turning it to a link?

    Edit 2: Fixed:)
    Edit 3: nope, there it is again lol. I give up
     
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2017
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