Purigen filtration

Clown Fish Harem Tank

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Does Purigen ultimate filtration work?

Is it a good product to carry for your tank?

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Blue Spot Octopus

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I use it in 3 of my tanks, put in a bag, and place it in your tank, and when it changes the color you can recharge, it, just follow the directions.
 

spacey

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I use it in 3 of my tanks, put in a bag, and place it in your tank, and when it changes the color you can recharge, it, just follow the directions.
So how do you know it does anything measurable other changing color? Have you tested water before and after? How long after? How much did you put in in what size tank?

Purigen's particle size is very small and because of it a major PITA to use in any way other than the little bags they sell it in, or stuffed into Sachem's The Bag, which has very small hole size. In both cases, it's a bag which means it's passive in the sump. Meaning, water doesn't have a lot of incentive to pass through it and mostly goes around it. This is exacerbated by the fact that the bags which can hold it, have tiny holes, and thus make it even harder for the water to move through.

I've been trying to figure out how to use it effectively for a long time but have not been able to find any active uses, meaning in a reactor, presumably because it is such a pain. The particles are tiny, very sticky when dry and stick to everything, and get everywhere unless contained in a sealed container of some kind. Impossible to get out if they spill into the tank.

I keep seeing people say they use it but never really saw any tests before/after etc.

I have a large bottle I bought few years back because I was fired up about the concept, but never really figured out how to implement it well enough to be worthwhile.
 

MERKEY

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So how do you know it does anything measurable other changing color? Have you tested water before and after? How long after? How much did you put in in what size tank?

Purigen's particle size is very small and because of it a major PITA to use in any way other than the little bags they sell it in, or stuffed into Sachem's The Bag, which has very small hole size. In both cases, it's a bag which means it's passive in the sump. Meaning, water doesn't have a lot of incentive to pass through it and mostly goes around it. This is exacerbated by the fact that the bags which can hold it, have tiny holes, and thus make it even harder for the water to move through.

I've been trying to figure out how to use it effectively for a long time but have not been able to find any active uses, meaning in a reactor, presumably because it is such a pain. The particles are tiny, very sticky when dry and stick to everything, and get everywhere unless contained in a sealed container of some kind. Impossible to get out if they spill into the tank.

I keep seeing people say they use it but never really saw any tests before/after etc.

I have a large bottle I bought few years back because I was fired up about the concept, but never really figured out how to implement it well enough to be worthwhile.
Use panty hose doubled up....holds any little particulates including cupisorb shich are the smallest DI resin particles there are.

We use panty hose for phoseguard as well. Make little balls of anything you want and toss them in your reactor to tumble away!
 

Blue Spot Octopus

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Avast makes a reactor to tumble Purigen, it is called a Spglass. Makes sure you put the tiny screen in or you will have a mess.
 

Reef.

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So how do you know it does anything measurable other changing color? Have you tested water before and after? How long after? How much did you put in in what size tank?

Purigen's particle size is very small and because of it a major PITA to use in any way other than the little bags they sell it in, or stuffed into Sachem's The Bag, which has very small hole size. In both cases, it's a bag which means it's passive in the sump. Meaning, water doesn't have a lot of incentive to pass through it and mostly goes around it. This is exacerbated by the fact that the bags which can hold it, have tiny holes, and thus make it even harder for the water to move through.

I've been trying to figure out how to use it effectively for a long time but have not been able to find any active uses, meaning in a reactor, presumably because it is such a pain. The particles are tiny, very sticky when dry and stick to everything, and get everywhere unless contained in a sealed container of some kind. Impossible to get out if they spill into the tank.

I keep seeing people say they use it but never really saw any tests before/after etc.

I have a large bottle I bought few years back because I was fired up about the concept, but never really figured out how to implement it well enough to be worthwhile.

I tend to agree, I am nearly at the bottom of a bottle and don’t really have an incentive to buy a new bottle, I have had one lot in for maybe 2 months and no colour change at all, the media bag ends up being a detritus trap, I just feel it’s not doing much, it either is like the Tardis it holds way more than it’s small size would have you believe or it is so useless you can leave it in your tank for 6 months because it doesn’t do much at all.
 

Waynerock

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Carbon and a bag of purigen is all I really keep in my tank for chemical filtration. 1 little bag lasts about 1-2 months in my 65 gallon. It turns noticeably darker when exhausted. Excess nutrients are always in the low side where I like em. I like purigen
 

spacey

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Use panty hose doubled up....holds any little particulates including cupisorb shich are the smallest DI resin particles there are.

We use panty hose for phoseguard as well. Make little balls of anything you want and toss them in your reactor to tumble away!
Interesting... I may have to try that see what happens. This will obscure the coloring though. I am also thinking a bag from a used Chemipure might work well. Very supple w/possibly small enough holes to hold it in place. But again, obscures the coloring, which is one of the "selling" points. That said, I am still not sure its as good as a reactor. There is a reason we don't put carbon in bags before putting into a reactor even though it would make things easier to load and unload.
 
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MERKEY

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Interesting... I may have to try that see what happens. This will obscure the coloring though. I am also thinking a bag from a used Chemipure might work well. Very supple w/possibly small enough holes to hold it in place. That said, I am still not sure its as good as a reactor. There is a reason we don't put carbon in bags before putting into a reactor even though it would make things easier to load and unload.
Very true about the carbon but cuprisorb is a little different and I would like to think it rolls against itself were as carbon would clump...not scientific but I think you get what I'm saying.

There is also white pantynhose that you can see the color change.

We have used this method with phosgaurd as well with great success.

I'm not sure the turnover cuprisorb needs compared to carbon and if "running" through it with pressure would be a huge difference....
 

spacey

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Carbon and a bag of purigen is all I really keep in my tank for chemical filtration. 1 little bag lasts about 1-2 months in my 65 gallon. It turns noticeably darker when exhausted. Excess nutrients are always in the low side where I like em. I like purigen
So I really want to like it, always did. The marketingspeak makes it sound extremely attractive, and its not too expensive. Ever since I kept hearing people would use it like you, 1 carbon and one Purigen years ago on nano-reef. The thing is, while carbon is a no-brainer - has noticeable effect on clarity and you can see the water color difference it makes, I've never ever seen any specific effect Purigen had. The water clarity is just carbon doing its thing. Purigen is suppose to adsorb proteins I think and thus reduce nitrates as a result. While I've seen the few bags I used darken over time, it always took a long time. And I've never had super low nitrates until I came across NoPoX... mmm love that thing so far, though it seems to be having problems killing my phosphates now few months after initial reduction to 0. Nitrates are at 0 since a week after I started dosing it.
 

Waynerock

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So I really want to like it, always did. The marketingspeak makes it sound extremely attractive, and its not too expensive. Ever since I kept hearing people would use it like you, 1 carbon and one Purigen years ago on nano-reef. The thing is, while carbon is a no-brainer - has noticeable effect on clarity and you can see the water color difference it makes, I've never ever seen any specific effect Purigen had. The water clarity is just carbon doing its thing. Purigen is suppose to adsorb proteins I think and thus reduce nitrates as a result. While I've seen the few bags I used darken over time, it always took a long time. And I've never had super low nitrates until I came across NoPoX... mmm love that thing so far, though it seems to be having problems killing my phosphates now few months after initial reduction to 0. Nitrates are at 0 since a week after I started dosing it.
Well here is this brought to you by the people selling it! Who knows how well it works. I started using it on my current tank at the get go since I have always used it and always had favorable nutrient readings in my other tanks. It’s one of those things that I have used along with Carbon and I would hate to stop using it and have issues. It’s well reviewed and they even make chemipure blue that is a mix of carbon and purigen resin in one bag. They have made it for a while and if it was bunk and did nothing you figure they would of stopped making it by now. Idk 10 bucks every couple months is dirt cheep compared to everything else in my tank.
 

spacey

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Well here is this brought to you by the people selling it! Who knows how well it works. I started using it on my current tank at the get go since I have always used it and always had favorable nutrient readings in my other tanks. It’s one of those things that I have used along with Carbon and I would hate to stop using it and have issues. It’s well reviewed and they even make chemipure blue that is a mix of carbon and purigen resin in one bag. They have made it for a while and if it was bunk and did nothing you figure they would of stopped making it by now. Idk 10 bucks every couple months is dirt cheep compared to everything else in my tank.

Well... so I used Chemipure Blue, and I def liked it and saw noticeable results. Good product for sure. BUT, they are vague about the resins they have mixed w/carbon in it. Just like with Elite. According to them, Elite is Carbon + GFO + ion exchange resin; Blue is Carbon + Phosphate adsorption resin + organic scavenger resin. They are definitely not saying its Purigen. Don't know if they just aren't saying or it really is not. I saw people saying it in few places, but its anecdotal from what I saw. That's not what the mfc says, at least officially.

Not saying you should stop using it by any means ;), just checking if its science or feelings based.

And just because they are making it and selling and have a good marketing spiel doesn't mean its worth anything. Its a big company they can be riding that fact and people not questioning them, even tho the product itself may have negligible effects. Just to point to few other similar cases - supplements industry and homeopathy. Uuuge business. Do they work? meeeh... if you think so ;). Aquarium filtration media is not a regulated industry. This means they can pacakage cow manure and call it cheese and nobody can sue them for that. If people buy it that means they like the product, and the manufacturers can keep selling it with impunity. Again, not saying it doesn't work, but I am yet to see any tangible/measurements that would show explicitly that it does.

Caveat: still need to watch the video you attached. For all I know it may prove me wrong and show exactly what I am looking for.
 

Rjramos

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I ran a 100gm sack of purigen followed by bag of chemipure elite in a media basket in my 29 biocube. I also ran a refugium basket with chaeto right after it. I had a bad bryopsis plaque in the tank that I had to use fluconazole to eradicate. Nitrate and Phosphate were always on the low end to 0. Chaeto grew well. Then I pulled all the chemical media and left just a filter pad. The chaeto is growing even better and N and P are good. I guess if you really have a bio load and need extra out put.
 

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