PVC joint fix? or redo plumbing?

[Devaji]

so I hard plumbed my RS reefer 750XXL on my main return after a month to 6 weeks of figuring out how to do this and ordering parts I have 2 leaks...SIGH

i'll admit I did not use primer as it gets all over and I though for low pressure systems like we have its not needed. but now I have a cpl leaks and have yet to test my manifold.

I tell you plumbing this it turning it to a big PITA .

i know the BEST way would to redo the whole thing, and I prob. would if I did not have to order parts online not much of anything where I live. HD is 200 miles away RT.

~so my questions is do you really need primer? I applied to both side put in and twisted.

~any way to fix the leak with out redoing the whole thing?? I did apply some silicone between a union and an elbow that was leaking every small space gonna look like crap but I have spent more $$ and time on this plumbing that I care to admit.


thoughts I am bummed and over this dang plumbing...

 

[Flippers4pups]

As you may already know, primer softens the pvc and allows the plastic to "melt" together with the glue.

Yes, the best way is to redo the plumbing with primer. Unfortunately.

 

[Devaji]

Here is a pic there is A small leak on the main siphon at the 3/4" to 1" adaptor then a small one after the union and elbow..

 

[Mastiffsrule]

I was wondering what the trap is for?

 

[link81]

I have successfully fixed leaks. But only occasionally.
1. Dry out the pipe. All the way. Then use a hair dryer to make sure there is no water whatsoever in the joint
2. Primer the crap out of the leak area. 2 or 3 times.
3. Apply a liberal ammout of cement to the leak area.
4. If you get lucky that will seal it. If not you have to re-build it anyway.

 

[samnaz]

If I were you I’d re-do it all with primer, but that’s just me... I know it’s expensive and time consuming but it’s the best way to ensure a leak free system.

 

[Holy_makerel]

Bill Wann macna talk about plumbing. I'm getting ready to plumb my new system and learned a ton from this video. I've watched it twice

 

[samnaz]

Also, just for future reference, there is clear primer so you can let it get all over without worry of messing up your pretty plumb job.

 

[samnaz]

Bill Wann macna talk about plumbing. I'm getting ready to plumb my new system and learned a ton from this video. I've watched it twice

This was a godsend when I was hard plumbing for the first time!

 

[JimFuller]

so I hard plumbed my RS reefer 750XXL on my main return after a month to 6 weeks of figuring out how to do this and ordering parts I have 2 leaks...SIGH

i'll admit I did not use primer as it gets all over and I though for low pressure systems like we have its not needed. but now I have a cpl leaks and have yet to test my manifold.

I tell you plumbing this it turning it to a big PITA .

i know the BEST way would to redo the whole thing, and I prob. would if I did not have to order parts online not much of anything where I live. HD is 200 miles away RT.

~so my questions is do you really need primer? I applied to both side put in and twisted.

~any way to fix the leak with out redoing the whole thing?? I did apply some silicone between a union and an elbow that was leaking every small space gonna look like crap but I have spent more $$ and time on this plumbing that I care to admit.


thoughts I am bummed and over this dang plumbing...

Yes, you will find it better to replumb. Home Depot and Lowes in Billings will allow you to return unused items. They do that because so many out of towners can not just drive in to get the item that they need. I suggest you get a bit more parts than you need, then either return them on your next trip or even mail them to a friend to return for you.

If I was not heading out of town for a few months, I would go get what you need and send it down to you.

I just replumbed my sump. I did use the clear cleaner/primer. It does make things look nice.

 

[naterealbig]

so I hard plumbed my RS reefer 750XXL on my main return after a month to 6 weeks of figuring out how to do this and ordering parts I have 2 leaks...SIGH

i'll admit I did not use primer as it gets all over and I though for low pressure systems like we have its not needed. but now I have a cpl leaks and have yet to test my manifold.

I tell you plumbing this it turning it to a big PITA .

i know the BEST way would to redo the whole thing, and I prob. would if I did not have to order parts online not much of anything where I live. HD is 200 miles away RT.

~so my questions is do you really need primer? I applied to both side put in and twisted.

~any way to fix the leak with out redoing the whole thing?? I did apply some silicone between a union and an elbow that was leaking every small space gonna look like crap but I have spent more $$ and time on this plumbing that I care to admit.


thoughts I am bummed and over this dang plumbing...

@Devaji - you don't necessarily need to re-plumb the entire system. Where is the leak? Pics?

Also, while it many tout it as common practice and an immediate go-to for failure point, technique and understanding of how pieces fit together will get you much further than blindly slathering with primer.

For reference, i plumbed my last two systems without primer. Here's my current.....

 

[Devaji]

Yes, you will find it better to replumb. Home Depot and Lowes in Billings will allow you to return unused items. They do that because so many out of towners can not just drive in to get the item that they need. I suggest you get a bit more parts than you need, then either return them on your next trip or even mail them to a friend to return for you.

If I was not heading out of town for a few months, I would go get what you need and send it down to you.

I just replumbed my sump. I did use the clear cleaner/primer. It does make things look nice.

looks nice and clean. that is very kind of you to offer good sir.

I was wondering what the trap is for?

it's so you can get it back up to the return as it metric then converted to US standard a few parts so it hangs down quite a bit.

I have successfully fixed leaks. But only occasionally.
1. Dry out the pipe. All the way. Then use a hair dryer to make sure there is no water whatsoever in the joint
2. Primer the crap out of the leak area. 2 or 3 times.
3. Apply a liberal ammout of cement to the leak area.
4. If you get lucky that will seal it. If not you have to re-build it anyway.

i might try that before I rebuild.

If I were you I’d re-do it all with primer, but that’s just me... I know it’s expensive and time consuming but it’s the best way to ensure a leak free system.

yes we all want a worry free leak free system. this is my 1st time NOT using primer I regret it now.

Bill Wann macna talk about plumbing. I'm getting ready to plumb my new system and learned a ton from this video. I've watched it twice

i'll watch it. I though I was good to go, but guess not.

Also, just for future reference, there is clear primer so you can let it get all over without worry of messing up your pretty plumb job.

yeah I did not want to wait for it in the mail...I have had this tank since early Dec. making a mess in the living room wanted to get it going, and thought with low pressure in our reefs I would be good.

 

[Devaji]

@Devaji - you don't necessarily need to re-plumb the entire system. Where is the leak? Pics?

Also, while it many tout it as common practice and an immediate go-to for failure point, technique and understanding of how pieces fit together will get you much further than blindly slathering with primer.

For reference, i plumbed my last two systems without primer. Here's my current.....

sweet looking set up that is that I was going for...I think where I went wrong was a few of the piece between elbows/unions were to small and maybe they did not get pushed in as they should. I dry fitted everything it then cemented once lubed it slid in different than dry fitting . that is the only thing I can thing of where I might have messed up?

 

[Devaji]

what is every ones thoughts on the 2 in 1 primer cement from gorilla:
https://smile.amazon.com/Gorilla-Cl...ar+PVC+primer&qid=1553488003&s=gateway&sr=8-3

 

[SuncrestReef]

I ran into this issue when I discovered leaks from my UV sterilizer fittings. I found a YouTube video showing how to use a shop vac to apply suction to the PVC plumbing which can then help draw in primer and cement to fill the gaps.

I documented this in my build thread here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/s...eefer-xl-425-build.358990/page-4#post-4631292

 

[Hemmdog]

Bill Wann macna talk about plumbing. I'm getting ready to plumb my new system and learned a ton from this video. I've watched it twice

That guy is hilarious!!

 

[Devaji]

I ran into this issue when I discovered leaks from my UV sterilizer fittings. I found a YouTube video showing how to use a shop vac to apply suction to the PVC plumbing which can then help draw in primer and cement to fill the gaps.

I documented this in my build thread here: https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/s...eefer-xl-425-build.358990/page-4#post-4631292

thanks I think I am going to try that before re-plumbing the whole tank. nice build BTW I totally got sucked in I love builds threads its like a good novel oh the journey..

 

[shoggoth43]

Having spent a month plumbing the store with hundreds of fittings, some notes.

Clear primer exists, there is no reason to stain you and the world around you blue or purple.
Primer helps but is not strictly needed, especially on gravity drains.
The type of glue in use makes a difference.
The "hot" glue gives you VERY little time to get it in place and may cause a few things to not line up right.
If the glue has been around a bit, or you have done any decent amount of plumbing without placing the cap back on then you may have lost many of the volatiles in it which makes it weak and far more likely to leak.
Get a new can of cement, see above.
Do not just push the fitting in, make sure to push and do a quarter turn and hold for 15-30 seconds.
When making the joint, once it starts to set, do not force it "just a bit more" to make it line up better.
You can often just cut out the one offending joint and use a coupling to splice in a new one, but it won't look pretty. Some places will be too precise or tight for that to work, and you'll need to cut way back.
Make sure to square up your cuts on the pipe.
Wear eye protection, especially if the plumbing is at or above eye level. The number of spatters from the primer that hit my glasses was surprising and disturbing but at least it wasn't in my eyes.
Ventilate, or at least get a decent respirator if you're in an enclosed cabinet. That stuff will give you quite a lingering cough.

Of all of these, the most problematic was having glue that outgassed and was weak. This was usually because someone had used it and walked off for some reason and then came back later and put the cap back on when they came back. Sometimes it was minutes later, sometimes quite a bit later. Any time that weaker glue got used after that the leak rate went way up.

 

[Reef-junky]

Plus one on the clear primer. People seem to grab that purple crap for some reason.

 

[ReeferBean]

I have successfully fixed leaks. But only occasionally.
1. Dry out the pipe. All the way. Then use a hair dryer to make sure there is no water whatsoever in the joint
2. Primer the crap out of the leak area. 2 or 3 times.
3. Apply a liberal ammout of cement to the leak area.
4. If you get lucky that will seal it. If not you have to re-build it anyway.

I had a small leak on one of my drains, and this worked for me.