QT question

FloatinBy

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May paramaters are good and im dosing coppersafe. Its a 20gal tank with a HOB filter and a power head with a sponge filter. I have a yellow tang bout 4in or so. Hes doing great and no concerns with him. Its bare bottom bc ita a QT tank with pvc and pota as caves. Im having a horrible algea outbreak. No carbon running as idk if i cam or not with fritz coppersafe. Is the tang gonna freak if i cut the lights for a few days or will he be fine? I can brush algea off but with no carbon or anythimg whats going to "suck it up"?
 

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May paramaters are good and im dosing coppersafe. Its a 20gal tank with a HOB filter and a power head with a sponge filter. I have a yellow tang bout 4in or so. Hes doing great and no concerns with him. Its bare bottom bc ita a QT tank with pvc and pota as caves. Im having a horrible algea outbreak. No carbon running as idk if i cam or not with fritz coppersafe. Is the tang gonna freak if i cut the lights for a few days or will he be fine? I can brush algea off but with no carbon or anythimg whats going to "suck it up"?
How often are you doing water changes to your qt tank? You can cut the lights for a couple days, shouldn't have any negative effects on the fish :)
 
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Its a little "green bc i just scrubbed the crap out of it. Bout ever 3 days or so. I check parameters all the time and everything is good. I have not check phosphate tho. I figure its hospital tank plus tangs like algea no? Its a little ugly but its healthy at least thats what im thinking. Ill cut lights for 3 days i just didnt want to add undo stress to him but if he will be fine then thatll whats ill do
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Its a little "green bc i just scrubbed the crap out of it. Bout ever 3 days or so. I check parameters all the time and everything is good. I have not check phosphate tho. I figure its hospital tank plus tangs like algea no? Its a little ugly but its healthy at least thats what im thinking. Ill cut lights for 3 days i just didnt want to add undo stress to him but if he will be fine then thatll whats ill do
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Cut the lights, scrub as much algae as you can, and do a water change to suck out the free floating algae. and then bring your coppersafe back up to therapeutic levels :)
 

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Carbon doesn't do anything to algae, besidesit removes any medications you dose in the water.
Use prime bacteria in order to fight off some nutrients, of course as mentioned a water change or manual removal of the algae works too.
Tank is ugly as tangs are putting a lot of poop in your water and the Hob doesn't keep up with the nutrients.
 

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If you with carbon refer to active carbon - it will remove some of your cupper - not all but some. If you mean organic carbon (like vodka) - it will replace the algae community with a bacterial community. Will rise the oxygen demand of the tank. I would take down the light to one hour a day in order to feed the fish but not feed the algae with light. Remove most of the algae, do a WC before you change the light regime.

Sincerely Lasse
 

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1. Cut the lights permanently... you don't need lights on a QT for fish. The room's ambient light will be enough. That should kill the algae and keep it from increasing.
2. Water changes are needed to keep the nutrients in check throughout the quarantine time. I test mine for nitrates regularly and do water change if they are getting over 20-30ppm.
3. When you do a water change during the copper treatment, make sure the new saltwater you are adding is already been treated to bring it up to the copper therapeutic levels. This ensures you never drop below the required therapeutic levels.
4. I wouldn't run carbon during the copper treatment...it will pull out some of the copper and drop you below the therapeutic level, hence requiring you to start overt again! Plus... as previously annotated...carbon doesn't remove algae or nitrates/po4 that is causing the algae bloom.
5. After feeding, use a turkey baster to suck out any food that didn't get consumed... this will limit your nutrients breaking down into your water as well.

I don't use any lights during quarantine...at about the 1 month point, I will usually start getting a little film algae on the walls and structures... no big deal, though.
 

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3. When you do a water change during the copper treatment, make sure the new saltwater you are adding is already been treated to bring it up to the copper therapeutic levels. This ensures you never drop below the required therapeutic levels.
4. I wouldn't run carbon during the copper treatment...it will pull out some of the copper and drop you below the therapeutic level, hence requiring you to start overt again! Plus... as previously annotated...carbon doesn't remove algae or nitrates/po4 that is causing the algae bloom.

I can't stress these two enough. If your copper level drops below therapeutic for even a moment, the 30 day clock starts over.
 
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I use just stability wich is bacteria in a bottle. QT is now months old and this is 2nd fish ive QT in it
 

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Also don’t use prime with copper it makes it toxic

Thanks Bro,
I just realized that after you mentioned to not use prime that the OP was doing a copper treatment.
.
 
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FloatinBy

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Ive heard of how bad prime and copper is. The 1st time i got a new fish i was paranoid that the prime i put into my DT like a month and a half prior would interact with the minimal copper that would be on the fish when i "rinsed" him in the DT water prior to putting him in
 

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Don’t quote me but I think you only have to worry about prime for 24 hrs after added
 
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FloatinBy

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Like when i pulled him from W
QT i put him into container of DT water and changed nets. Idk if all thats needed but from my understanding i dont even want a little copper im my DT
 

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1. Cut the lights permanently... you don't need lights on a QT for fish. The room's ambient light will be enough. That should kill the algae and keep it from increasing.
This^^ :)
 

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