Quarantine Questions

revco33

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I got the same answer! I am glad I am not the only one who thinks this is ridiculous!

"Here is a dead fish delivered to your door and a dying one, please treat them and if they die we will give you store credit, by the way you must still purchase another $150 dollars to free shipping thank you for giving us your money for sick fish and understanding"

Yep. Called today and spoke with Derek, a manager, he said no go on a full or partial refund. I explained how his fish caused this problem, now I have to treat all the more expensive fish with a formalin bath and CP for 30 days. Metroplex with focus to feed internally. I also got a microscope and a digital scale to measure CP. the microscope is to find this uronema crap. I saved a sample of their water. I will also be sampling my DT to see if uronema is present already. I did a good job of not letting anything cross over. I did use a baster once, but I gave it a hot bath. I read uronema is basically in all our tanks already. It’s just a matter of the fish being weak and susceptible to the disease. Yeah I lost another chromis today. That’s 4 out of 5. Yep. I need to spend bucko bucks to get that free shipping. I guess I could just get the equipment with my credit and get free shipping. But forget fish. I got to my a decision on this last chromis. I hate to off him, but I think it’ll happen anyway. There should be disclaimer on live Aquaria’s website that their **** is all jacked up!

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revco33

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Oh and the kole is 10$ off from what it was when you likely ordered it on their website. My YT was 64. It’s now 54$. Smh. I’m just buying locally from now on. But I think I’m stocked enough at this point. At least live aquaria offers a return for 2 weeks. Most places offer zilch. My Lfs offers 48 hours.
 
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Utahsaltnoob

Utahsaltnoob

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Oh and the kole is 10$ off from what it was when you likely ordered it on their website. My YT was 64. It’s now 54$. Smh. I’m just buying locally from now on. But I think I’m stocked enough at this point. At least live aquaria offers a return for 2 weeks. Most places offer zilch. My Lfs offers 48 hours.
Same here, horrible service.

Question for you, should I start a 2nd QT Tank and move the survivors over to get them into clean "untainted" water and start medicating again?
 

revco33

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Same here, horrible service.

Question for you, should I start a 2nd QT Tank and move the survivors over to get them into clean "untainted" water and start medicating again?

Here is what I’m doing. I still got two chromis from my lfs. I got them after two of the live aquaria’s died. They seem to be doing well. So I’m going a little harder than I would want because I don’t want to lose them. But, from all I gathered after much research is to get a nice formalin dip going. A couple of gallons in a bucket. Get aeration and heater. Acclimate them and then dip for 45 minutes, following Humblefishes recommendations. (I’ll send link I found). Then after dip I’ll move them into a clean QT. At that point I’ll dose with CP and feed using metroplex/focus. Maybe a couple or weeks. I also bought a nice microscope and will be inspecting samples of my DT, QT, and live aquaria’s water that the fish came in. Side note. I’m running two QT tanks. One is basically a sump, but I’m keeping a few fish in there and some in the upper qt. I’ll be adding updates here. On any findings.
 

revco33

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YT doing well. Eating seaweed of rubberbanded rock.

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revco33

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Humblefish

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There are 2 easy ways to cleanse a fish of Uronema:
  1. 45 minute formalin bath before the fish enters QT. Compound must contain 37% formaldehyde and 14-15% methanol. Amazon sells it as lab grade formalin.
  2. Dose 25mg/L metronidazole into the QT. Use the 100% pure powder if possible, as metro sold by the aquarium industry is usually heavily diluted.
Chloroquine phosphate also works, but is best dosed into a sterile QT to limit the possibility of degradation. Hydrogen peroxide is showing great promise for treating Uronema, but at this time should still be considered experimental.
 
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Utahsaltnoob

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There are 2 easy ways to cleanse a fish of Uronema:
  1. 45 minute formalin bath before the fish enters QT. Compound must contain 37% formaldehyde and 14-15% methanol. Amazon sells it as lab grade formalin.
  2. Dose 25mg/L metronidazole into the QT. Use the 100% pure powder if possible, as metro sold by the aquarium industry is usually heavily diluted.
Chloroquine phosphate also works, but is best dosed into a sterile QT to limit the possibility of degradation. Hydrogen peroxide is showing great promise for treating Uronema, but at this time should still be considered experimental.
Your website shows i can do a 90 minute bath in a heavy aerated c/concentrated Ruby Reef Rally for uronema, will that work? i only ask because I have it on hand.
 

revco33

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There are 2 easy ways to cleanse a fish of Uronema:
  1. 45 minute formalin bath before the fish enters QT. Compound must contain 37% formaldehyde and 14-15% methanol. Amazon sells it as lab grade formalin.
  2. Dose 25mg/L metronidazole into the QT. Use the 100% pure powder if possible, as metro sold by the aquarium industry is usually heavily diluted.
Chloroquine phosphate also works, but is best dosed into a sterile QT to limit the possibility of degradation. Hydrogen peroxide is showing great promise for treating Uronema, but at this time should still be considered experimental.

Thanks for stopping by, Humblefish.

I have rid ich plus kordon (11% formalin). Will that get me anywhere or should I just get the high grade stuff off amazon? I was told to get rid ich by live aquaria. After reading up on some of your older posts I wonder if it were a bad choice. I have CP and metroplex/focus. Any guidance would be great here. Thanks. Also, I’ve read that Uronema is present in pretty much all tanks. Is there any truth to that? There really doesn’t seem to be a lot of info out there, that I can find. I’d like to know where I should be taking samples from to test for UM. Like from the water column or from detritus off the bottom of tank. I’m all barebottom. I have a descent microscope and I want to see if it’s present in the water the fish came to me in. My QT now and DT. Thanks again! All the best!
 

Humblefish

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Your website shows i can do a 90 minute bath in a heavy aerated c/concentrated Ruby Reef Rally for uronema, will that work? i only ask because I have it on hand.

Acriflavine (one of the active ingredients found in Rally) seems to be more effective against Brooklynella than Uronema. For the latter, I would only count on Rally to provide temporary relief. I've used formalin enough times on chromis with uronema to know it is pretty close to 100% effective on surface parasites & worms. But it is also a carcinogen, so be careful when handling it.
 

Humblefish

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I have rid ich plus kordon (11% formalin). Will that get me anywhere or should I just get the high grade stuff off amazon? I was told to get rid ich by live aquaria. After reading up on some of your older posts I wonder if it were a bad choice. I have CP and metroplex/focus. Any guidance would be great here. Thanks. Also, I’ve read that Uronema is present in pretty much all tanks. Is there any truth to that? There really doesn’t seem to be a lot of info out there, that I can find. I’d like to know where I should be taking samples from to test for UM. Like from the water column or from detritus off the bottom of tank. I’m all barebottom. I have a descent microscope and I want to see if it’s present in the water the fish came to me in. My QT now and DT. Thanks again! All the best!

11% formalin will probably only provide temporary relief. Meaning, it may not kill all the parasites on the fish.

Uronema is prevalent with chromis, anthias, and sometimes angels/butterflies. It can subsist off detritus, so going fallow will not eradicate it. I suspect many tanks have low levels of Uronema present, but it still has to be introduced into an aquarium by an infected fish. Or sometimes the parasites inadvertently hitchhike in on a coral/invert that was housed in a system with infected fish. They don't stick to corals/inverts, but can be loosely attached.
 

revco33

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11% formalin will probably only provide temporary relief. Meaning, it may not kill all the parasites on the fish.

Uronema is prevalent with chromis, anthias, and sometimes angels/butterflies. It can subsist off detritus, so going fallow will not eradicate it. I suspect many tanks have low levels of Uronema present, but it still has to be introduced into an aquarium by an infected fish. Or sometimes the parasites inadvertently hitchhike in on a coral/invert that was housed in a system with infected fish. They don't stick to corals/inverts, but can be loosely attached.

So would I be better off doing a 37% formalin bath with metroplex/focus? Or a 37% formalin bath with CP? Or should I combine all 3?

I'm curious the effectiveness of just using CP alone. What are your thoughts on that? For example. I remove all fish and equipment and bleach it and then PRIME it. I get a new QT up and running... then return fish with CP in the water. Would that knock it out or would I still need to step in with some metro/focus? Thanks again. I appreciate the chance to speak to someone with real experience and not hearsay.

Sorry for the hijacking... Utah ;)
 

Humblefish

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@revco33 If you're dealing with an active infection (red sores) I would do the following:
  1. 37% formalin bath OR 90 minute Rally bath
  2. Followup treatment with Metro OR CP in QT
Obviously, the formalin bath should take care of the problem with no further treatment needed. (Rally bath will require followup treatment for uronema.)

After the bath, transfer the fish into a new/sterile QT (to prevent reinfection). Dose metro or CP as an insurance policy. The effectiveness of both metro and CP is largely dependent upon purity. The closer you are to 99% pure, the more effective the drug is going to be. I use Fishman Metro which I've had tested (96% pure), and I only dose 2x 48 hours apart when QTing chromis or anthias. If you're using something like Seachem Metroplex (only 70% active), you'll need to dose every 48 hours for at least 10 days IMO.
 

revco33

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@revco33 If you're dealing with an active infection (red sores) I would do the following:
  1. 37% formalin bath OR 90 minute Rally bath
  2. Followup treatment with Metro OR CP in QT
Obviously, the formalin bath should take care of the problem with no further treatment needed. (Rally bath will require followup treatment for uronema.)

After the bath, transfer the fish into a new/sterile QT (to prevent reinfection). Dose metro or CP as an insurance policy. The effectiveness of both metro and CP is largely dependent upon purity. The closer you are to 99% pure, the more effective the drug is going to be. I use Fishman Metro which I've had tested (96% pure), and I only dose 2x 48 hours apart when QTing chromis or anthias. If you're using something like Seachem Metroplex (only 70% active), you'll need to dose every 48 hours for at least 10 days IMO.

Thanks!
 

revco33

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Stuck to your aquarium: Do you put reef-related stickers on or around your reef system?

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