Question about operating 2 heaters at once.

[LMDAVE]

I have about 110 gallons of system water. I'm running two 125w Jager heaters in my sump due to size limitations of getting a 250w. Even the 125w jagers have to be in diagonally to be submerged. I don't have an APEX so I don't have a temp controller, just the internal thermostats.

Anyway, the heaters work great when on, however it is close to impossible get them exactly synced, or maybe one has a bigger deadband than the other.

My room temp is probably about 70 on average right now, and heating the tank to about 79. The heater on the left stays on most of the time, but one 125w heater doesn't heat well alone, but it provides enough heat that it doesn't drop much. So basically it stays on all the time, the second heater needs the temp to drop before it come on. If I turn the dial slightly to make it come on with the other one, then the second heater doesn't turn off. The first heater seems to have a good 1 to 1.5 degree deadband, but the second identical heater seems to have a bigger deadband before coming back on or turning off.

My temp is staying in a good range, so My question is, what negative things can happen to the first heater that seems to be doing the majority of the work by staying on the majority of the time?

What is a reliable temp controller (besides an APEX) that I could just have the power cut to both of these together.

 

[RobZilla04]

https://www.amazon.com/Inkbird-Digi...XA/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid={creative}&hvpos={adposition}&hvnetw=o&hvrand={random}&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl={devicemodel}&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584001420065285&psc=1

Basically you're saying the tank is staying at temp with one of the heaters doing the majority of the work, with the second rarely kicking on. In the event the first fails, the second "could" handle the load, but without constantly checking you'd never know the first failed. Take a look at the product linked above. It does not require a controller to run. I must admit I don't have any experience with it. I run two ViaAqua 300W with just the internal thermostat changed annually.

 

[LMDAVE]

Yeah, I read about those ink bird controllers and in theory that should be exactly what I should use. Just turn my heaters to a higher number (around 82) so they come on when the controller turns the outlets on, so they both come on together and off together. But I guess I got spooked by those because I read bad comments on it like the temp probe drifting off by almost 10 degrees and constantly having to recalibrate. I thought they may be another reliable option. I'm not in the market for an APEX yet, but a known reliable temp controller would be a good answer.

I'm mainly concerned about the current heater that is on for the majority of the work, should I expect coils to go bad on that oen way sooner because of operating more? Not sure about the longevity of aquarium heater when put to this much use. I bout Jagers because it's seemed to be the most robust and reliable.

 

[Fish_Sticks]

Get an industrial grade ranco controller for 45$ on amazon. YT for how to wire it. Inkbirds are **** and apex is overpriced and useless.

 

[LMDAVE]

that sounds like a good option. I did just read about the problems with Inkbird is that you shouldnt submerge the probe in the water and that is why false readings happen. I Don't' know if Ranco is the same issue where you need to be careful where you place the probe.

 

[dugthefish]

I run an inkbird controller set at 79*, have 1 heater set at 78*, and the second set at 77*. I only use the controller as a fail safe if the heater's thermostats should stick. Tank maintains temp from 77.9-78.3

 

[A sea K]

that sounds like a good option. I did just read about the problems with Inkbird is that you shouldnt submerge the probe in the water and that is why false readings happen. I Don't' know if Ranco is the same issue where you need to be careful where you place the probe.

Using the same Ranco controller on my third system and never given any special consideration to probe placement.

 

[shark keeper]

+1 on the industrial grade ranco controller. That is what I used before I bought a controller.

I now use 2 250w heaters with a 300 for backup on my 180 but I have an Apex.

 

[LMDAVE]

Using the same Ranco controller on my third system and never given any special consideration to probe placement.

Thanks, so you fully submerge the probe and there has been no issues?

And I assume ETC-111000 is the model you're using?

https://www.amazon.com/RANCO-ETC-111000-Digital-Temperature-Control/dp/B0015NV5BE

 

[A sea K]

Thanks, so you fully submerge the probe and there has been no issues?

And I assume ETC-111000 is the model you're using?

https://www.amazon.com/RANCO-ETC-111000-Digital-Temperature-Control/dp/B0015NV5BE

None to date and the unit is several years old (4-5 min) Because the unit was originally purchased for a larger system using metal halide it is actually the dual version, heat and cool, model # TR115DN. I would expect it to be the same minus the cooling side, looking at your link the probe pictured appears to be the same.

 

[marlinmon]

Yeah, I read about those ink bird controllers and in theory that should be exactly what I should use. Just turn my heaters to a higher number (around 82) so they come on when the controller turns the outlets on, so they both come on together and off together. But I guess I got spooked by those because I read bad comments on it like the temp probe drifting off by almost 10 degrees and constantly having to recalibrate. I thought they may be another reliable option. I'm not in the market for an APEX yet, but a known reliable temp controller would be a good answer.

I'm mainly concerned about the current heater that is on for the majority of the work, should I expect coils to go bad on that oen way sooner because of operating more? Not sure about the longevity of aquarium heater when put to this much use. I bout Jagers because it's seemed to be the most robust and reliable.

Do not submerge the probe past where it meets the insulated wire. If you do it like this it will never drift. You cannot submerge the entire probe assembly (probe plus wire).