question about stands

Thegoodson

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just pick up and new rimless 105 ish gal aquarium
i have been looking for a stand for a few weeks
local lfs can get one make for me for 540 it would be 40in tall 28in wide and 48in long
and for and extra hundred i can get doors on the side....is that a worth value

also i have been looking in to the 80/20 t slotted stand anyone know would would be the price difference i have email some companies with no replies yet

just looking to see if i should get there to make it or got with the 80/20
 

code4

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If you ever have to get in from the side you will consider it well spent. We had one put on the right side and we are glad for it. Always using it. And some sumps will not fit in and out of the front. If you have a leak or want to take it out for whatever reason the side is the way to go. Most cabinets have a center beam in the front that could be in the way. Another important consideration is the finish. Just be able to be around all that water in a sump. And that you will be able to get to everything easily under the stand. Lots of build threads here for ideas.

Good luck
Shelley
 
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Thegoodson

Thegoodson

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If you ever have to get in from the side you will consider it well spent. We had one put on the right side and we are glad for it. Always using it. And some sumps will not fit in and out of the front. If you have a leak or want to take it out for whatever reason the side is the way to go. Most cabinets have a center beam in the front that could be in the way. Another important consideration is the finish. Just be able to be around all that water in a sump. And that you will be able to get to everything easily under the stand. Lots of build threads here for ideas.

Good luck
Shelley
thanks i will take a look at them
 

ihavecrabs

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Definitely not a bad price considering they are doing the labor!

You could do it yourself with a 1/2" plywood box (I would personally go 3/4" plywood) and it would be more than enough. The tough part comes with the wood finishing (molding, sanding, staining, building doors/hinges). If it is in the main part of the house and you want it looking nice and you don't have the wood working experience or tools, definitely worth the money!
 
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Thegoodson

Thegoodson

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Definitely not a bad price considering they are doing the labor!

You could do it yourself with a 1/2" plywood box (I would personally go 3/4" plywood) and it would be more than enough. The tough part comes with the wood finishing (molding, sanding, staining, building doors/hinges). If it is in the main part of the house and you want it looking nice and you don't have the wood working experience or tools, definitely worth the money!
Ya I'm thinking the same thing I build a stand for my old 75 and it held fine but it was ugly
 

ca1ore

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If you have woodworking/cabinetry skills then the answer is easy: make it yourself. If you don’t, the answer is even easier: buy one! I always make my own, and have removable side panels for lateral access.
 
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Thegoodson

Thegoodson

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If you have woodworking/cabinetry skills then the answer is easy: make it yourself. If you don’t, the answer is even easier: buy one! I always make my own, and have removable side panels for lateral access.
im not to handy for with wood at all...i do lil project here and there to get better tho
baby sets
 
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Thegoodson

Thegoodson

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I have been reading more and more about the alummium slot stuff and it seems no to be that back I think I did a price check and for everything it was like 300 or 350.....unless I'm missing something
 

jsker

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I have been reading more and more about the alummium slot stuff and it seems no to be that back I think I did a price check and for everything it was like 300 or 350.....unless I'm missing something

That would be a great cost for 80/20. Make sure that the 80/20 is enough to carry the weight.
 
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Thegoodson

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I have seem some people just use the corner brackets to hold the t slotted rail together...I've email a few companies still waiting for them to reply
 

NaH20nerd

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I built an 80/20 stand. Used the 45 series and had the ends machines to accept hidden fasteners. It’s about twice the cost of a wooden stand, but it’s light, it’s modular (Meaning it can be modified as my needs change) and it isn’t wood (Meaning zero chance for rotting or warping). I skinned it with PVC board and a PVC laminate top. Still have some things to add but here is how it looks so far.
5aed11c75a568717642c299bb2f1b90a.jpg
adccc8d8a68546bc717757e45c26d7c1.jpg
5d5ed928a4a95cc04a69389fb0d668af.jpg


It has 40” clear in the front for sump and equipment. No side panel access. The only thing I’m still working out is where to install electronic equipment, dosing containers and RO/DI water for top off.
 
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Thegoodson

Thegoodson

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Do you have a built thred for that pretty much the look I'm going for I dont mind to have the connector being shown. How did you get the pvc siding in there
 

NaH20nerd

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The PVC board (also ordered from 80/20) fits in the T-Slot (about 6mm) and is held tight (to prevent rattling/vibration) by a rubber gasket. Super easy to install, so long as your build is cut to the correct dimensions. However, it’s super thin too so I cannot comment on how well it will keep noise down. Also, I don’t think mounting anything to it is an option. My plan is to install 3/4” PVC Board (from Lowe’s) to the back for mounting equipment. You can search 80/20 videos on YouTube for many of their products and how they’re installed.
 
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Thegoodson

Thegoodson

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The PVC board (also ordered from 80/20) fits in the T-Slot (about 6mm) and is held tight (to prevent rattling/vibration) by a rubber gasket. Super easy to install, so long as your build is cut to the correct dimensions. However, it’s super thin too so I cannot comment on how well it will keep noise down. Also, I don’t think mounting anything to it is an option. My plan is to install 3/4” PVC Board (from Lowe’s) to the back for mounting equipment. You can search 80/20 videos on YouTube for many of their products and how they’re installed.
Thanks I'll check that out
 

NaH20nerd

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I eventually plan on using sliding doors (same material as pictured above) that can be lifted out and removed without any tools. So for me, having no attachment hardware in the way was the goal.
 

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