Question for Wild Acro Sellers

[Dlealrious]

I was wondering for the guys who import and nurture some of the crazy colour sticks. How long does it take for a wild piece to change colour and get some of the crazy colours you always see. I know this is probably a "how long is a piece of string" kinda question :eek: Is it months years etc.
What point do you just give up?

 

[SeaDweller]

I’m not a vendor, but Some of my friends who did it would let things cook for 3+ months before they saw some changes in color, whether it be coloring up from pale or a shift in colors.

 

[joseserrano]

I would say you will start seeing change in a few months, but up to a year is not unfounded. Keep in mind, this is a stable system.

 

[Dlealrious]

Cool, yeah normally i find 2-3 months things will start to change. but always wondered what kind of lighting/conditions they keep some of those tenius under before you get some crazy polyp colours. I have 1 coral possibly A. vermiculata which looks blah! under normal light but under atinic its crazy the colours you get. Its so hard to get a pic of it though:( Bright red polyps.

 

[SeaDweller]

Cool, yeah normally i find 2-3 months things will start to change. but always wondered what kind of lighting/conditions they keep some of those tenius under before you get some crazy polyp colours. I have 1 coral possibly A. vermiculata which looks blah! under normal light but under atinic its crazy the colours you get. Its so hard to get a pic of it though:( Bright red polyps.

I’d say. That’s a nice shot under blues/actinic.

Unfortunately that’s how some people sell their stuff, based off actinic shots.

 

[Hemmdog]

Cool, yeah normally i find 2-3 months things will start to change. but always wondered what kind of lighting/conditions they keep some of those tenius under before you get some crazy polyp colours. I have 1 coral possibly A. vermiculata which looks blah! under normal light but under atinic its crazy the colours you get. Its so hard to get a pic of it though:( Bright red polyps.

Add more uv during your peak and the fluorescence will stay all day.

 

[Graffiti Spot]

Some of the guys who have tanks specifically for wilds and are always full can get corals colored up from shipping stress to what it should look like in a month or two easy. Most of the systems that reefers build for displays are going to struggle to quickly turn around wild pieces that are stressed.

 

[Dlealrious]

Add more uv during your peak and the fluorescence will stay all day.

I think i do with my atlantik, 70% on uv channel. I run really high par though also

 

[Dlealrious]

Some of the guys who have tanks specifically for wilds and are always full can get corals colored up from shipping stress to what it should look like in a month or two easy. Most of the systems that reefers build for displays are going to struggle to quickly turn around wild pieces that are stressed.

That is true, I seen ppl like Jason fox who run the blue look tank but as a display will look odd. Might try it in the quarantine tank once display is full.

 

[jda]

...so much of this just depends. Most of the real issue is that the corals come in colored under daylight. They can look awesome right away under blue light, but the color fades as the daylight is not given anymore. Not all acros do this, but many of them do.

I can get a coral to regain all of it's color from shipping in about two-three weeks, but this is under 10k halides. You have no idea how they are going to shift to blue until you take the daylight spectrum away.

Here is an example... RR Jawdropper lands red and dark blue... now it is pink and light blue since nobody has it under 6500k anymore. If mine every decides to grow, I am going to put it under 6500k and see if it will get red and dark blue again. These are not my photos... so all credit to Big R or whomever took them:

 

[TaylorJames]

Where do people get these crazy wild pieces to begin with?

 

[jda]

You get a box from Australia, Fiji, Tonga (or where ever is shipping at the moment) and hope for the best. For every one gem that they get, they get a whole bunch of turds and a pile of stuff that is so-so. When they hit on one good one, you have to cash in to pay for the rest.

 

[Dlealrious]

...so much of this just depends. Most of the real issue is that the corals come in colored under daylight. They can look awesome right away under blue light, but the color fades as the daylight is not given anymore. Not all acros do this, but many of them do.

I can get a coral to regain all of it's color from shipping in about two-three weeks, but this is under 10k halides. You have no idea how they are going to shift to blue until you take the daylight spectrum away.

Here is an example... RR Jawdropper lands red and dark blue... now it is pink and light blue since nobody has it under 6500k anymore. If mine every decides to grow, I am going to put it under 6500k and see if it will get red and dark blue again. These are not my photos... so all credit to Big R or whomever took them:

Wow that's cool, I like running a white spectrum. 50/50 b+ c+ on my grow out tank. Essentially equal w 2 b on display. 6500k must be yellow look yeah?

 

[Graffiti Spot]

Yea most are pretty yellow, which is why the old school super blue fat tubes were so popular years back. But honestly this spectrum 6500-10k is the only spectrum range I have seen pull true blues and reds out of corals. No one will understand what I mean unless they have ran these bulbs over their tank before. Especially with halides, this range just colors corals that might look good, but have another level to them that a lot of reefers don’t get. I totally miss my 10k xm bulbs! It’s common thought that these lower k bulbs brown corals and I have seen it posted many times but it’s just not true.
I agree with Jda and would love to see someone keep a jaw dropper under an old iwasaki 6500. I see so many tanks these days with a monochrome look to all the corals in it, maybe it’s just the way people are photographing their corals, I don’t know.

 

[Dlealrious]

That makes some sense, I have a red plate at the back on the tank which is under 2 x c+ (tube layout isn't equal so I can run blues for a few hours at night) and its soo red compared to when it was under led in old frag tank. I'm seeing if the same thing happens with new bit next to it. [/QUOTE]