Randy's Tank and Learn Thread

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Randy Holmes-Farley

Randy Holmes-Farley

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FWIW, here are some pictures of my old tank from my previous tank thread. The middle three are, I think, from the days when it was in a 90 gallon tank and was lit with the 2 x 175 w 10,000k mh that I liked the look of better than the 2 x 250 w DE metal halides used in the top and bottom pictures (in the 120). I definitely want a warmer look than the first and last picture.


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1743007232070.png
 

Ooh fiddlesticks

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Ooh, I’m looking forward to following along, this is my first time commenting on anything on R2R but I’ve lurked here for psshhhh 15? Years or so.
I’ve learned a great deal from you Randy so first and foremost, thank you for openly sharing your knowledge freely, second.. well I don’t really have a second but good luck!
 
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Randy Holmes-Farley

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Ooh, I’m looking forward to following along, this is my first time commenting on anything on R2R but I’ve lurked here for psshhhh 15? Years or so.
I’ve learned a great deal from you Randy so first and foremost, thank you for openly sharing your knowledge freely, second.. well I don’t really have a second but good luck!
Thanks for posting. The first post is the hardest. lol
 
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Randy Holmes-Farley

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@Randy Holmes-Farley I'd love to know more about the plumbing between the trash cans and the setup there, including how high off the floor you have the connections. Did you elevate the macroalgae from the bottom any?

Sure. It’s embarrassingly messy right now to take a picture, but the first two are up on cinder blocks covered by an old section of butcher block counter top. Maybe a foot or a bit more above the other two. That helps with gravity flow down the chain.

They are connected by 2” bulkheads and 2” pvc between them. They are close enough that I bought sections of pre threaded pipe 6”? to connect them and allow disassembly if needed.

Each water level is a little lower than the one upstream.

Between old dead rock from my last tank (much more on that later) and the incoming tbs live rock that may have some that doesn’t fit into the aquascaping, I’m not sure how much might go into the cans, but I expect some will and that will raise the “bottom” of the area for macroalgae. In my last tank, macro had about 8-12 inches above the rock.

And, of course, as I’m now adding water I found that a bulkhead plugging an unused hole was leaking and I have been cranking down on it to prevent that. I’m hesitant to declare full success, but it is much less, if any.
 

Futuretotm

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I’ve been debating that in my mind for a long time. I would use limewater/kalkwasser as I did on my previous tank, but don’t have enough space for both large kalk and ro/di storage, and I also want to use the Tunze osmolator for ATO.

I’m probably going to use AFR plus some extra trace (either diy or TM A and K). Also under consideration is just carbocalcium plus trace elements).

Current: 2 part (NaOH and Dow Flakes for Ca)
Future: should / could I go to NaOH and AFR plus ????? any benefits other than getting trace

what made you ditch the dow flakes?
 
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Randy Holmes-Farley

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Current: 2 part (NaOH and Dow Flakes for Ca)
Future: should / could I go to NaOH and AFR plus ????? any benefits other than getting trace

what made you ditch the dow flakes?

I actually never used it. Always kalkwasser in the last tank. I don’t expect this to be a high alk demand tank, hence AFR and carbo calcium being an option. Simplicity is the reason to pick it. :)
 

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I actually never used it. Always kalkwasser in the last tank. I don’t expect this to be a high alk demand tank, hence AFR and carbo calcium being an option. Simplicity is the reason to pick it. :)

Would you recommend AFR for a 300+ gallon aquarium?
Having a hard time getting my mind wrapped around AFR, why bother with Sodium hyrdorxide/dow flakes when all you need is AFR by itself.....
 

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Would you recommend AFR for a 300+ gallon aquarium?
Having a hard time getting my mind wrapped around AFR, why bother with Sodium hyrdorxide/dow flakes when all you need is AFR by itself.....
I think the more important question is alk consumption. AFR will start to get expensive in high alk consumption tanks.
 

kdx7214

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Sure. It’s embarrassingly messy right now to take a picture, but the first two are up on cinder blocks covered by an old section of butcher block counter top. Maybe a foot or a bit more above the other two. That helps with gravity flow down the chain.

They are connected by 2” bulkheads and 2” pvc between them. They are close enough that I bought sections of pre threaded pipe 6”? to connect them and allow disassembly if needed.

Each water level is a little lower than the one upstream.

Between old dead rock from my last tank (much more on that later) and the incoming tbs live rock that may have some that doesn’t fit into the aquascaping, I’m not sure how much might go into the cans, but I expect some will and that will raise the “bottom” of the area for macroalgae. In my last tank, macro had about 8-12 inches above the rock.

And, of course, as I’m now adding water I found that a bulkhead plugging an unused hole was leaking and I have been cranking down on it to prevent that. I’m hesitant to declare full success, but it is much less, if any.

So you used bulkheads rather than uniseals? I was worried that a bulkhead might not fit tightly against the non-square sides of the trash can. I'm considering something like this for myself as my current sump just isn't working efficiently.
 
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Randy Holmes-Farley

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Would you recommend AFR for a 300+ gallon aquarium?
Having a hard time getting my mind wrapped around AFR, why bother with Sodium hyrdorxide/dow flakes when all you need is AFR by itself.....

It’s most convenient, and also most expensive. This has more comparison.

 
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Randy Holmes-Farley

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So you used bulkheads rather than uniseals? I was worried that a bulkhead might not fit tightly against the non-square sides of the trash can. I'm considering something like this for myself as my current sump just isn't working efficiently.

I think the cans can deform enough to work. I have many bulkheads in Brute cans with no leaks.
 
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So far the 50 gallon per day rated ro buddie is producing somewhat more than rated, so I am happy with it. :)
 

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Sure. It’s embarrassingly messy right now to take a picture, but the first two are up on cinder blocks covered by an old section of butcher block counter top. Maybe a foot or a bit more above the other two. That helps with gravity flow down the chain.

They are connected by 2” bulkheads and 2” pvc between them. They are close enough that I bought sections of pre threaded pipe 6”? to connect them and allow disassembly if needed.

Each water level is a little lower than the one upstream.

Between old dead rock from my last tank (much more on that later) and the incoming tbs live rock that may have some that doesn’t fit into the aquascaping, I’m not sure how much might go into the cans, but I expect some will and that will raise the “bottom” of the area for macroalgae. In my last tank, macro had about 8-12 inches above the rock.

And, of course, as I’m now adding water I found that a bulkhead plugging an unused hole was leaking and I have been cranking down on it to prevent that. I’m hesitant to declare full success, but it is much less, if any.

How high up the trash can do you put the bulkheads? I'm guessing near the top for gravity feed, but always find it's good to make sure lol
 
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Randy Holmes-Farley

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How high up the trash can do you put the bulkheads? I'm guessing near the top for gravity feed, but always find it's good to make sure lol

All over them. The cans used for ro/di and new salt water are connected near the bottom to permit drawing from one can takes from them all.

The sump and refugium cans are all in the upper half. The level inside each can is actually higher than the bulkhead by adding some pipe inside. That also allows me to put holes in the pipe so that a bunch of macroalgae cannot just clog the opening.

Here’s an example:
1743019120214.jpeg
 

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All over them. The cans used for ro/di and new salt water are connected near the bottom to permit drawing from one can takes from them all.

The sump and refugium cans are all in the upper half. The level inside each can is actually higher than the bulkhead by adding some pipe inside. That also allows me to put holes in the pipe so that a bunch of macroalgae cannot just clog the opening.

Here’s an example:
1743019120214.jpeg

Do you have any problems with back pressure from the elevation difference between the RO/DO unit and the can if the entrance is at the bottom? I doubt I'll be able to pull that off as my RO/DI unit uses the standard 1/4" tubing (not sure if there are bulkheads that small or not lol).
 
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Randy Holmes-Farley

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Do you have any problems with back pressure from the elevation difference between the RO/DO unit and the can if the entrance is at the bottom? I doubt I'll be able to pull that off as my RO/DI unit uses the standard 1/4" tubing (not sure if there are bulkheads that small or not lol).

My ro/di produced water just enters at the top of the can, which is about 20 tubing feet away but slightly higher elevation.

The bottom bulkheads just allow the cans to stay at the same level when adding or removing from just one.
 

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Great thread.

A reef author documenting this on demand is rare and shows the audience future planning + outcome + experience. I haven't seen an article unfold in live time they're usually retro look backs on perfected systems right at the peak growth era. To show the initiation and follow through by an author/ rare gold I thought.


The last several years reef articles I've seen on blogs etc had nothing like this, where outcome wasn't known yet. We know a solid outcome is coming that's what makes the thread fun. You had several large red aged and matured anemones from that old tank I remember reading.
 

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