Reboot Standard 125. Nothing special here.

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P-Dub

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Moving along with the sump...
The middle section is where I have my trusty old ASM. I haven't modified the ASM other than placing some Matala in the needle wheel. If it ain't broke... Wait, it was broke. Ok, I had to replace the pump and the elbow but I went with the same pump. I will see how this works out. I might decide to go with an adjustable DC pump in the future but I'm thinking that it might just complicate things. If anyone can make a suggestion or knows of a pump that will work let me know... I might even convert it to a recirculating skimmer design with a smaller pump and have it fed off of one of the two spare manifold feeds. As well, I have an old fluidized bed reactor that I will be placing bio-beads in instead. I always had the fine sand in there before and I'm not certain what, if any, benefit I had with that but the tank always rocked. Can't seem to source the sand for a fluidized bed so this seems a reasonable alternative. The bio-pellet reactor will be fed off the manifold.
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The little orange prescription bottle you see below is a CO2 filter attached to the air feed for the skimmer that will have color changing absorber in it.
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ZaneTer

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Well done!! Everything is looking great.

For inside your hood would you consider lining it with sheets of mylar? Its a highly reflective sheet of >95% reflectivity to help you squeeze every bit of par out of your fixtures and help with colour blending. It can be had for quite cheap too.

It will be very exciting to follow this build thread as it progresses.
 
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Well done!! Everything is looking great.

For inside your hood would you consider lining it with sheets of mylar? Its a highly reflective sheet of >95% reflectivity to help you squeeze every bit of par out of your fixtures and help with colour blending. It can be had for quite cheap too.

It will be very exciting to follow this build thread as it progresses.
Thanks Zane!
I had thought about painting the interior of the canopy white but that would require sanding and coating and sanding and coating and ... I got tired thinking about it. Additionally, I didn't want the possibility for any paint to fleck off into the tank. I never even considered mylar. That certainly is a reasonable option. Got a lead on a source? And, how would you recommend installing it? It will be a bit before the tank is up and running so I certainly have the time to implement that modification.
 

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I believe spray on carpet glue would work well but I would still worry about vapours given off. Mylar comes in sheets of various thicknesses.

I ghetto rigged a previous lid of mine by using tin foil and I loved the amount of extra light. The next time I am home I will have a hood built for the current tank where I will be using Mylar.
A sheet 5m x 1.2m cost me around $20 and I just used amazon.

The beauty is it is really easy to cut up and apply to your hood.
 
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I believe spray on carpet glue would work well but I would still worry about vapours given off. Mylar comes in sheets of various thicknesses.

I ghetto rigged a previous lid of mine by using tin foil and I loved the amount of extra light. The next time I am home I will have a hood built for the current tank where I will be using Mylar.
A sheet 5m x 1.2m cost me around $20 and I just used amazon.

The beauty is it is really easy to cut up and apply to your hood.
I will look into amazon. No free shipping for me though. Maybe brush on contact cement?
 

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That could certainly be a good idea. It should give you a nice smooth flat finish.
I have absolutely no idea how well it reacts with adhesives but I will do some reading tonight and if I find any suggestions I will let you know. It is very commonly used in the horticultural industry so I am certain many have tried this before us.
 

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You were completely spot on!!
Contact adhesive is the most common long term option. Alternatively you could even get sheets with that have an adhesive backing, at a price of course.
 
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That could certainly be a good idea. It should give you a nice smooth flat finish.
I have absolutely no idea how well it reacts with adhesives but I will do some reading tonight and if I find any suggestions I will let you know. It is very commonly used in the horticultural industry so I am certain many have tried this before us.
I'd be very interested to know. I was thinking about this https://www.amazon.com/VIVOSUN-Mylar-Diamond-Highly-Reflective/dp/B01MZ72PAH/ref=sr_1_10?ie=UTF8&qid=1522323725&sr=8-10&keywords=mylar+sheet&th=1#customerReviews just because it is thicker and conceivably, easier to apply.
 

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That is very similar to the one I have gone for. The thickness should certainly mean that it is durable!
That and you probably have enough to do 10 tanks including refugiums. By the way very nice grow light you chose. UFO style that I haven’t seen a bad review of yet.
 
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That is very similar to the one I have gone for. The thickness should certainly mean that it is durable!
That and you probably have enough to do 10 tanks including refugiums. By the way very nice grow light you chose. UFO style that I haven’t seen a bad review of yet.
I'm looking forward to seeing how the light works long term. Thanks for the vote of confidence. I just changed the water that my rock has been cycling in. Now I just need to test the parameters. It's kinda killing me that I have everything so close to being done and really not being able to move forward. The plus side is when I return from my vacation in May I will likely have a slump in work due to my absence and I will be able to go full steam on the set-up. Trick is, I have to stay away from the email while away.
 
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I can't believe no one has caught the glaring issue with my return pump set up shown in post #33. I'm going to stay quiet until someone comes forward.
 

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Try to think of it as something very positive to look forward to when you come home.

On my contracts I am very clear with the employer...do not contact me in my time off. It is something very precious to me. I will not respond to emails for them. It’s a very difficult habit to break but it is one I am grateful I managed to.
 
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Try to think of it as something very positive to look forward to when you come home.

On my contracts I am very clear with the employer...do not contact me in my time off. It is something very precious to me. I will not respond to emails for them. It’s a very difficult habit to break but it is one I am grateful I managed to.
My employer, myself, allows no such latitude. ;)
 
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It's going to pump the water from the fuge pretty much straight back into the display?
This, it will do... along with a diversion to the manifold but, this is the purpose of the return pump. We want to have the most direct route for copepods to make it to the display. There is still an issue. I'll give you a hint... Maintenance. Another hint... it is this way due to space constraints.
 
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And, finally the last chamber of my DIY sump. This is the location that the ATO sensors will be as this is the chamber that should fluctuate with evaporation, even with the Fuge dumping back into this chamber. Essentially, the Fuge fill and dump constitute a closed loop system, sort of, and should not affect the final chamber water level, unless I'm missing something. In this last chamber is my DIY calcium reactor, the float for redundant back up of the ATO, my PH probe and thermometer connected to the Apex, as well as the dosing pumps depository area, for lack of a better term, and the float level that controls the VarioS6 for low water shut off. Just before the final chamber is a three baffle in a high-low-high configuration with the Matala sheets as a bubble trap. I could be missing something here but this ought to work.
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No isolation valve so you will need to drain that sump section to remove / maintain it?
BINGO! But I have a workaround. Not so elegant but it will work and I will have to get my hand wet but what reefer doesn't get their hands wet. The workaround pictured below. It is a slip-fit on the interior of the bulkhead so...
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