My Red Ogo (from Algae Barn) also turned green under a Kessil H80 Tuna with the Color value set to Grow and the Intensity about 40% on an 8 hour nightly schedule.
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If you have multiple plants, you can try placing them at different heights/areas of the tank to see how they respond to lighting.I’m new to macro algae, this is my first try with red ogo. Added maybe a week ago and it’s almost entirely green now. Too much or too little light?
I too have the h80 tuna flora and when my red ogo came in it was partly green. I tinkered with the light the first week. I'm running it 9 hours on grow at 100% intensity and have red ogo now. From what I found researching red ogo it turns green if not enough intense light. It grows in shallow streams and estuaries so the sun beats on it all day in the wild.My Red Ogo (from Algae Barn) also turned green under a Kessil H80 Tuna with the Color value set to Grow and the Intensity about 40% on an 8 hour nightly schedule.
So do I even have to wedge/glue/tie to substrate if this is the case? Could I simply toss it in the fuge and let it grow as it pleases?I grew Gracilaria Parvispora & Tikvahiae commercially, it does not have roots. Not sure what bloggers sell as Red Ogo. My suggestion on aquascaping would be to sandwich it with rock.
[See if you can identify what you are calling red ogo.
Index of Red MacroalgaeMarine Plants in the Aquarium
macroalgae, marine plants, caulerpa, refugium substrate, marine macroalgae for salewww.marineplantbook.com
The genus Rhodophyta is the largest and most diverse group of tropical and temperate marine algae with more than 2,000 species worldwide. Their dominant pigment is phycoerythrin, which gives off rich shades of red, orange and blue. Red macro algae are some of the most varied and striking of all marine algae and are highly sought after as aquarium specimens. Identification can be difficult in some species, such as Gracilaria, and some have slight variations depending on the location and depth. Although this index is not a complete listing, it represents species that are commonly available or sought after by marine aquarists. As new species become available to the industry they will be added.]
Russ Kronwetter is diver/owner of Gulf Coast EcoSystems and he wrote the layman’s guide on macro algae.
Marine Plants In The Aquarium: An online guide to the identification and care of marine plants and macroalgae in the aquarium.
An online guide to the identification and care of marine plants and macroalgae in the aquarium.www.marineplantbook.com
"Marine Plants in The Aquarium" is an online resource for the identification and care of marine macroalgae and seagrasses in the saltwater aquarium. The guide features over 70 of the most commonly available species of marine plants with full color photographs, detailed descriptions and aquarium care. Many of the species included in the guide are available to purchase online from Gulf Coast Ecosystems. Click on each link below to begin the exploration.
Table of Contents
About The Author Introduction Marine Plants In The Aquarium
The Refugium Substrates Selecting Quality Plants
Aquascapes Lighting Reproductive Cycle
Filtration Nutrients Maintenance
Case For Caulerpa Green Macroalgae Red Macroalgae
Brown Macroalgae Seagrass Mangroves
References Glossary Online Articles
I glue it onto small movable rocks because it is in my display tank and would eventually end up on the sand bed if I didn't since I have fish. For a fuge, just toss it in. Keep an eye on it to make sure it stays in the fuge and doesn't get sucked into filter pipes.So do I even have to wedge/glue/tie to substrate if this is the case? Could I simply toss it in the fuge and let it grow as it pleases?
Sweet, so if it’s laying flat should I just flip it every couple of days?I glue it onto small movable rocks because it is in my display tank and would eventually end up on the sand bed if I didn't since I have fish. For a fuge, just toss it in. Keep an eye on it to make sure it stays in the fuge and doesn't get sucked into filter pipes.
Forgot to ask, are the flow requirements for red ogo really as high as they say? If I don’t connect it to substrate, do I need to have it tumbling? Or would the natural flow of my sump suffice?I glue it onto small movable rocks because it is in my display tank and would eventually end up on the sand bed if I didn't since I have fish. For a fuge, just toss it in. Keep an eye on it to make sure it stays in the fuge and doesn't get sucked into filter pipes.
Can you grow it fine just by tumbling? I apologize for all of the questions here. I’ve never been the best at growing macro. I had mine free floating but the powerhead chewed it up. I built a little cage around the powerhead and finally have a nice tumble around the ogo. Hoping I’ll be able to sustain growth. I bought more just in case.As a generalization, algae growth is maximized with the least amount of electricity at a 4:1 ratio of red to blue. For viewing, I like 10K. For eye popping fire engine red, increase intensity with particular emphasis on white. The end goal for color rendition would be 6500-10,000K.
This is what Russ Kronwetter at GCE says:
Marine Plants in the Aquarium
macroalgae, marine plants, caulerpa, refugium substrate, marine macroalgae for salewww.marineplantbook.com
[This particular species features long, cylindrical, alternating branches that are attached by a single holdfast. The coloration varies depending on the depth collected and ranges from bright red to yellow or green. Gracilaria Parvispora is by far the most popular species of Red Gracilaria used among marine aquarists today. It' i easily grown under a variety of conditions and provides an excellent food source to many herbivorous fish and invertebrates. It is typically not as attractive as other varieties of Gracilaria, but has enjoyed a long history of use in the refugium filter of reef aquariums worldwide. Many have had success growing good quantities in both small culture tanks and large scale aquaculture with this hardy variety.]
So do I even have to wedge/glue/tie to substrate if this is the case? Could I simply toss it in the fuge and let it grow as it pleases?
Cool, I have it tumbling. It keeps getting latched onto the rock in my sump/baffle overflow though since it doesn't clump like chaeto.Yes, that would be sufficient. However, you will not maximize the nutrient export per unit volume as opposed to a tumble culture which is three dimensional with respect to light distribution.
Cool, I have it tumbling. It keeps getting latched onto the rock in my sump/baffle overflow though since it doesn't clump like chaeto.
I had to set the rock since the powerhead sticks out and the ogo got stuck on the left side of the powerhead. I ended up building a cage around the powerhead which is somewhat working. I might get a piece of plexiglass or something to replace the rock.Commercial growers of seaweed customize growout tank geometry. In my case, I used long narrow tanks (55G) with a vertical loop current which required air pump & water pump to move water fast enough to keep seaweed in suspension.
On my 120G mixed garden, the 40G sump is wide open with no obstructions. I grow both grape Caulerpa and red Ogo separated by eggcrate barrier. No tumble culture in my algae filter.
I have gracillaria in two tanks. In one tank, small pieces have broken off and become lodged in the power heads. These pieces receive direct and intense flow, and seem to grow better than those placed on the substrate.Forgot to ask, are the flow requirements for red ogo really as high as they say? If I don’t connect it to substrate, do I need to have it tumbling? Or would the natural flow of my sump suffice?
I have gracillaria in two tanks. In one tank, small pieces have broken off and become lodged in the power heads. These pieces receive direct and intense flow, and seem to grow better than those placed on the substrate.
That’s exactly what’s happening to mine. I thought the main intention of flow was to ensure all sides of it receive light? When they are stuck like this, only one sides receives light. Not to mention they are shadowed by the rotating mound of ogo.I have gracillaria in two tanks. In one tank, small pieces have broken off and become lodged in the power heads. These pieces receive direct and intense flow, and seem to grow better than those placed on the substrate.
Post is a bit old but what seems to be the best lighting type for red ogo? It dies under fluval plant 3.0, shows fresh growth in my display with the reefbreeders 24-V2+ and that was at 80% blues and violet, 10% red green and white. Would the fluval marine 3.0 be a better option to go over my two ac110 fuges or should I look into another option?
For a few years I operated AquacultureRanch as a hobby business and as a commercial grower of Red Ogo, Gracilaria Parvispora, in 10K gallon greenhouse mariculture system, I will testify that intensity is more important than spectrum. For grow lights, I use 5000 Kelvin spectrum.Did this work out for you? I grow lots of Red Ogo in my fuge and sometimes even in separate tank (spoil my tangs with live red ogo treats) using under $4 LED Daylight lightbulb - check the back for 5K spectrum. Lightbulb goes into a $13 shop light with clamp - quality fuge lighting is the cheapest (and simplest) part of my whole hobby
Can't take credit - got info and idea from:
An inexpensive Refugium Bulb | Melev's Reef
melevsreef.com
For a few years I operated AquacultureRanch as a hobby business and as a commercial grower of Red Ogo, Gracilaria Parvispora, in 10K gallon greenhouse mariculture system, I will testify that intensity is more important than spectrum. For grow lights, I use 5000 Kelvin spectrum.