Redoing sump baffles

[malira]

I am going to be cleaning and redoing the 55 gallon sump. I need to reglue the baffles. I initially used caulk but that took a while to dry. I need something that adheres to glass and plexiglass. It also needs to dry quickly.

Or is there a way to create channels for the baffle to slide into? Would super glue adhere to glass and plexiglass?

 

[cromag27]

To do it properly you will need to use high strength silicone. it will take a full week to cure. do not use super glue.

 

[malira]

To do it properly you will need to use high strength silicone. it will take a full week to cure. do not use super glue.

Unfortunately 1 week is not feasible. It need to be done in 1 day, 2 max.

Why not super glue to attach rails for the channel idea?

 

[mcarroll]

Or use the tank as an open sump and just forget the baffles. I built a "mcarroll's Ultimate Bubble Stopper" from 3" PVC fittings. The ATO sensor mounts to that. The rest of the sump is mine to do with as I please.

2¢

 

[malira]

Or use the tank as an open sump and just forget the baffles. I built a "mcarroll's Ultimate Bubble Stopper" from 3" PVC fittings. The ATO sensor mounts to that. The rest of the sump is mine to do with as I please.

2¢

I am considering that but I don't to limit my choices. I may want to do algae in the future.

Where can I find that bible stopper idea?

I do micro bubble but I like to be a
Blessing to stop the bubbles when I want.

 

[wattson]

get a plastic container /tub and use that for a temporary sump ,,while you silicone your baffles in the 55 correctly with enough cure time being given...short cuts only end up with a "KICK IN THE BUTT" when you did something subpar..

 

[mcarroll]

You can always do that later. Permanently mounted parts is the only thing that will limit you to an extent.

If algae/refigium is all you have in mind, then just putting a spill-wall to block in the last 12" of the sump is all you need. You can use any little pump to feed that chamber – use a uniseal in the wall or use PVC to go up and over. The wall will have a notch in the top (or something) to allow water to spill back into the main sump. Very simple, and you still have the rest of the 36" to do with as you please. :)

 

[malira]

Or use the tank as an open sump and just forget the baffles. I built a "mcarroll's Ultimate Bubble Stopper" from 3" PVC fittings. The ATO sensor mounts to that. The rest of the sump is mine to do with as I please.

2¢

Do you have a picture of this buble stopper? I'm curious and open to ideas.

 

[mcarroll]

I don't have one handy, but I made it from two elbows and a cross, plus a few fittings to make the openings closer in size to my drain plumbing. (It's not hard-plumbed to my drain tho.) One elbow has a 2" opening on its radius – that's the main outlet for de-bubblized drain water and it points directly at my skimmer pump. I think that elbow may have been called some kind of a cleanout, but I forget. I actually built it at Lowes in the plumbing aisle. LOL

 

[malira]

Is there an adhesive strip that can be used to hold the baffles in place?

I'm still looking for silicone that adheres to plexiglas. I really don't want to have to remake the baffles out of glass.

 

[mcarroll]

I think you'll need something different like a general purpose adhesive. What's that stuff that @Paul B uses?