Aaron Smith
Active Member
I remember this from my first install way early on!
Eventually you may want to consider revisiting setup from the ui. Would be user friendly for individuals who aren't comfortable in the terminal.
reef-pi :: An opensource reef tank controller based on Raspberry Pi.
- Thread starter Ranjib
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- controller raspberry-pi
- Tagged users Ranjib
I remember this from my first install way early on!
Eventually you may want to consider revisiting setup from the ui. Would be user friendly for individuals who aren't comfortable in the terminal.
OP
OP
Absolutely. I am planning to do a complete overhaul of code internals (to improve tests, and design) as well as the UI (to reflect our learnings from the builds).
OP
OP
I am working on cleaning up the code repository for reef-pi. I had started reef-pi project as a single repository in my github account and over the time it spilled into several other repositories (adafruit.io client library, website, design files etc). Since I also maintain a handful of other opensource projects, now navigating those got harder due to reef-pi related stuff (good problem to have). So, early last week I created a new github organization to segregate all reef-pi related code, documentation and design files into a single place.
https://github.com/reef-pi
I had to update reef-pi code base to reflect the new location for all libraries, I was busy in doing all these work this week. But now, its done. reef-pi has its own github org and the controller code is working as before with all dependencies from the new location. I am happy that reef-pi now have both a website and a dedicated github org, it should make things easy to find. Let me know if any of you want to be part of the development, I can invite you in the github organization. I would appreciate any contribution in code, documentation or design files (fritzing based)
Since the temperature controller is built and running on my pico I have some time now to work on the coding side.. I got few things lined up for the software side of things. Namely
- Doser UI and code
- Temperature controller UI
- Improve test coverage and refactor code across the board
https://github.com/reef-pi
I had to update reef-pi code base to reflect the new location for all libraries, I was busy in doing all these work this week. But now, its done. reef-pi has its own github org and the controller code is working as before with all dependencies from the new location. I am happy that reef-pi now have both a website and a dedicated github org, it should make things easy to find. Let me know if any of you want to be part of the development, I can invite you in the github organization. I would appreciate any contribution in code, documentation or design files (fritzing based)
Since the temperature controller is built and running on my pico I have some time now to work on the coding side.. I got few things lined up for the software side of things. Namely
- Doser UI and code
- Temperature controller UI
- Improve test coverage and refactor code across the board
Cary
Well-Known Member
Very Nice Ranjib. I didn't see a link on the new github to request to be added. At this time all I can do is offer suggestions, but in the next month I should be able to help more. BTW, I found some code for lunar cycle and I believe intensity. I am sure you have already seen it, but I would be happy to send it to you if you would like to see it. I think this is something that would help our corals a lot because they spawn during certain cycles of the moon. At least that is what I have read. Most appreciative of all the work you and the other contributors have done already.
OP
OP
I have to add individual members to the reef-pi org,I don't think github has a way for members to apply in an organization, let me double check
OP
OP
Github id
OP
OP
Done.
OP
OP
Yup
Can you walk me through creating jobs and how the different options on that tab work? Or point me to the guide? Sorry I thought I saw it in the thread but now I can't find it again..
OP
OP
Can you try the power strip build guide out and let me know if this helps:
Friends, I have been really contemplating the relay build, and the safety of it for me as a beginner in electronic circuitry. i do like the fuse built into the recommended switch, thumbs up @Ranjib . Although it concerns me some have mentioned the piece almost is fire hazard in some of their reviews, showing pictures that it melted.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK
It's definitely appears to be safer than my current setup I have been running for a year. I currently have a stc1000 in a plastic piece of Tupperware. This concerns me now because I suspect a proper project box has better fire protection in case of a short than Tupperware. @Aaron Smith and @Ranjib is that true? I also wonder for the bom if a project box should be recommended, or some sort of flame resistant / retardant casing?? Additionally I didn't wrap the hot side for the stc1000 together so well that last night one of the hots came out of the wirenut when I was plugging the device in and out of my new gfci adaptor [linked below] to test why it is tripping every time my chiller comes on. I also wonder if we should recommend if the relay box setup should be on a gfci.... Some videos on electric safety on youtube, said when working with mains of the house all live wire projects should have a gfci plugged in, and surge protector inline.
https://www.amazon.com/Tower-Manufa...8&qid=1502235844&sr=8-2&keywords=gfci+adapter
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OXPE8U...t=&hvlocphy=9026941&hvtargid=pla-307270368428
For the mean time i have purchased thhis: I hope that this will be safer than my current setup and actually work consistently with a gfci.
https://www.amazon.com/bayite-Tempe...2-spell&keywords=temperature+controller+byite
In place of a DIY relay box I'm considering using these etekcity rfi devices if I can make them work consistently. They will have the advantage that I can put each outlet after a dedicated ups and they are cheap. If I can't get them to work consitently I might use a HS100 tp-plink that I can control via a simple hack script. The only thing that is bad is I will need to make sure my wifi network is reliable.
Walking out to an electrically charged flood from 200 gallon tank a few weeks ago, has really woken me up to the dangers of electricity. Maybe I have become too spooked. Hopefully when I get some more experience I might feel comfortable attempting the relay build again.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK
It's definitely appears to be safer than my current setup I have been running for a year. I currently have a stc1000 in a plastic piece of Tupperware. This concerns me now because I suspect a proper project box has better fire protection in case of a short than Tupperware. @Aaron Smith and @Ranjib is that true? I also wonder for the bom if a project box should be recommended, or some sort of flame resistant / retardant casing?? Additionally I didn't wrap the hot side for the stc1000 together so well that last night one of the hots came out of the wirenut when I was plugging the device in and out of my new gfci adaptor [linked below] to test why it is tripping every time my chiller comes on. I also wonder if we should recommend if the relay box setup should be on a gfci.... Some videos on electric safety on youtube, said when working with mains of the house all live wire projects should have a gfci plugged in, and surge protector inline.
https://www.amazon.com/Tower-Manufa...8&qid=1502235844&sr=8-2&keywords=gfci+adapter
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OXPE8U...t=&hvlocphy=9026941&hvtargid=pla-307270368428
For the mean time i have purchased thhis: I hope that this will be safer than my current setup and actually work consistently with a gfci.
https://www.amazon.com/bayite-Tempe...2-spell&keywords=temperature+controller+byite
In place of a DIY relay box I'm considering using these etekcity rfi devices if I can make them work consistently. They will have the advantage that I can put each outlet after a dedicated ups and they are cheap. If I can't get them to work consitently I might use a HS100 tp-plink that I can control via a simple hack script. The only thing that is bad is I will need to make sure my wifi network is reliable.
Walking out to an electrically charged flood from 200 gallon tank a few weeks ago, has really woken me up to the dangers of electricity. Maybe I have become too spooked. Hopefully when I get some more experience I might feel comfortable attempting the relay build again.
OP
OP
I am happy that you made progress on your power supply. One way or other, this will help you in reef keeping a lot.
I will try to find an alternate AC panel mount that is tamper proof. Preferably with higher amp fuse. I am doing more research on this, tamper proof housing.
I agree completely with GFCI choice. I am using the gfci receptacles for my next build. I got a 3 pack receptacle set (6 outlet) from home depot. I think I'll update the guide to recommend gfci receptacles explicitly.
I thought about using something like feather/huzzah .. wifi enabled and costs 7$ or less. ...but pi zero really makes it so much better. while it gives abundant software possibility (easy telemetry, i.e you can see when things are being turned on/off in adafruit.io , full web ui and the cost difference is just 4 $ ,, tp-link is something functionally comparable (at 24$ per outlet), but becomes very costly very fast.
I would love to know what caused the electrically charged flood from 200 gallon tank
I will try to find an alternate AC panel mount that is tamper proof. Preferably with higher amp fuse. I am doing more research on this, tamper proof housing.
I agree completely with GFCI choice. I am using the gfci receptacles for my next build. I got a 3 pack receptacle set (6 outlet) from home depot. I think I'll update the guide to recommend gfci receptacles explicitly.
I thought about using something like feather/huzzah .. wifi enabled and costs 7$ or less. ...but pi zero really makes it so much better. while it gives abundant software possibility (easy telemetry, i.e you can see when things are being turned on/off in adafruit.io , full web ui and the cost difference is just 4 $ ,, tp-link is something functionally comparable (at 24$ per outlet), but becomes very costly very fast.
I would love to know what caused the electrically charged flood from 200 gallon tank
Aaron Smith
Active Member
Always plug into a gfci for your main source of power. We reefers are dealing with water and electricity, in which under the right circumstances is deadly. Surge protectors protect equipment from power surges due to lightning, transformer failure upstream, etc. GFCI's protect your butt from frying.
If your main surge protector is plugged into a gfci, then you and your equipment are protected. Keep in mind that you should test your GFCI every now and then. As far as your enclosure.... Any project box will be better than Tupperware. I am unsure of any fire rating on a project box though.
Aaron Smith
Active Member
Save the money and just swap out your wall outlet for a gfci and plug into that. Your original build is fine if you are plugging in your relay controlled outlet source into a gfci.[emoji1]
For those that don't want to replace their wall outlet, HD sells a short gfci extension.
MaccaPopEye
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I am happy that you made progress on your power supply. One way or other, this will help you in reef keeping a lot.
I will try to find an alternate AC panel mount that is tamper proof. Preferably with higher amp fuse. I am doing more research on this, tamper proof housing.
I agree completely with GFCI choice. I am using the gfci receptacles for my next build. I got a 3 pack receptacle set (6 outlet) from home depot. I think I'll update the guide to recommend gfci receptacles explicitly.
I thought about using something like feather/huzzah .. wifi enabled and costs 7$ or less. ...but pi zero really makes it so much better. while it gives abundant software possibility (easy telemetry, i.e you can see when things are being turned on/off in adafruit.io , full web ui and the cost difference is just 4 $ ,, tp-link is something functionally comparable (at 24$ per outlet), but becomes very costly very fast.
I would love to know what caused the electrically charged flood from 200 gallon tank
I ended up getting an AC panel mount that didn't have a fuse at all. The power boards I am using have a 10 amp fuse built into them. The aim is to keep the fuse and that way I will have 1x 10A fuse for each row of 5 outlets. I think most surge protection power boards should have a fuse built in, maybe that would be an easier way to go?
In Aus while you can buy GFCI extensions they aren't common and I've never seen a built in GFCI outlet, but every house circuit has to have RCD fuses fitted which I believe are not quite as sensitive but still life saving.
Aaron Smith
Active Member
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