, those orange connectors standout.
Looking at the AC wiring into your relays, you may want to switch the red and black wires. The way you have it wired will work, but the best way to do it is have the hot wires from the AC supply going to the center terminal(Comm) of the relay and the socket wires going to the left terminal (Normally Open).Finished up everything I can until more parts arrive. Major parts I'm waiting on are power supplies, temp sensors, pre wired plugs for my hat, ph boards, female to female jumpers, the standoffs and screws to mount various parts. I'm pretty happy with the way most of it is coming together so far, and I've learned a ton that will help me once my custom enclosure is finished.
Sometimes a 20 watt iron is NOT hot enough for connectors, it seems backwards but with a smaller iron you may have to hold it to the connector way too long to reach solder melting temp. That lets the heat "soak" into the connector heating everything up too much, where a hotter iron will heat up quicker to melt the solder without heat soaking too far away from where u want to solder.
Unless you forgot you were out of them and had to do ...one big blue wire nut.
Ahh, but yes you can do 16!!! You have another power connector with all you need to feed a second uln on another board...or you can do what im doing...mount a uln2803 on a perma proto hat and use a stackable header. Use the pins that the leftover power header on mike lanes hat use for power1 connector.Some progress made today, I now have a functioning 8 channel switchable power strip. I realized I cannot do 16 with the way my hat is setup. Guess I should have read the documentation better. Going to look into options to expand to the full 16 but for now 8 should suffice. Also again huge shout out to the members of this forum for all their help without which I'd never be as far along as I am.
