Reef-Pi smart plugs

[Des Westcott]

Hi all.

I've not been on this forum for a while - My Reef-Pi has been working well, but I'm changing some things around and am considering changing to smartplugs.

Is there a definitive list of smart plug devices that work with Reef-Pi?

I have played with Tasmota on a Sonoff device and got it working as a test, but was wondering if there was a simpler / better solution.

 

[Sral]

Hi all.

I've not been on this forum for a while - My Reef-Pi has been working well, but I'm changing some things around and am considering changing to smartplugs.

Is there a definitive list of smart plug devices that work with Reef-Pi?

I have played with Tasmota on a Sonoff device and got it working as a test, but was wondering if there was a simpler / better solution.

I think @Wolfw28 mentioned single tasmota sockets working …

 

[Des Westcott]

I think @Wolfw28 mentioned single tasmota sockets working …

Yes. I know from previous discussions that any smart switch / plug running Tasmota will work. I managed to flash a Sonoff DIY R3 with Tasmota and it worked with Reef-Pi. However, flashing that particular model was a pain, so I'm investigating what other options are available.

Here in South Africa, Smart Plugs / Smart Switches are relatively expensive - (especially the plugs) - and when I am considering buying 12+, the cost escalates quite quickly. The Sonoff switches are reasonable, and I know the R3 with Tasmota works.

I have just been reading that the Sonoff Basic R4 runs on the ESP32 chip, and I see that ESP32 is supported natively by Reef-Pi, so I have ordered one of those to test.

Maybe if there is enough interest I will start a thread with a pinned first post that a list can be started and maintained as a reference.

 

[elysics]

Yes. I know from previous discussions that any smart switch / plug running Tasmota will work. I managed to flash a Sonoff DIY R3 with Tasmota and it worked with Reef-Pi. However, flashing that particular model was a pain, so I'm investigating what other options are available.

Here in South Africa, Smart Plugs / Smart Switches are relatively expensive - (especially the plugs) - and when I am considering buying 12+, the cost escalates quite quickly. The Sonoff switches are reasonable, and I know the R3 with Tasmota works.

I have just been reading that the Sonoff Basic R4 runs on the ESP32 chip, and I see that ESP32 is supported natively by Reef-Pi, so I have ordered one of those to test.

Maybe if there is enough interest I will start a thread with a pinned first post that a list can be started and maintained as a reference.

Doesn't really get much cheaper than tasmota sockets. Even building your own properly is more expensive if you don't have all the tools and small items already.

Realistically you only need smart sockets for your heaters, one for your return pump, and one for all your flow pumps if they do t have a feeding mode.

What do you actually want to do with 12+?

 

[Des Westcott]

Seeing as almost all of my equipment has had the plugs cut off to extend cables or some equally mundane reason and the fact that here in South Africa we have at least three different plugs in circulation, I am going with switches like the ones pictured below....

 

[arbiter42]

I've had really good results using the Kasa smart plugs and smart strip, reef-pi supports them natively as long as you get the right models (I use the 103 and 300, respectively).

 

[masterofstuff124]

been using kasa for years. solid.

 

[Des Westcott]

Doesn't really get much cheaper than tasmota sockets. Even building your own properly is more expensive if you don't have all the tools and small items already.

Realistically you only need smart sockets for your heaters, one for your return pump, and one for all your flow pumps if they do t have a feeding mode.

What do you actually want to do with 12+?

I'm using the ROBOTANK stuff.

My equipment is set up as follows

Outlet 1 - Return Pump
Outlet 2 - Skimmer
Outlet 3 - My "Flow" pumps behind the rockwork
Outlet 4 - Left Wavemaker
Outlet 5 - Right Wavemaker
Outlet 6 - Other Wavemakers
Outlet 7 - Refugium light
Outlet 8 - Algae Turf Scrubber light
Outlet 9 - Kalk Stirrer motor
Outlet 10 - Heater 1
Outlet 11 - Heater 2
Outlet 12 - Chiller

Then I have ATO pumps, Auto Water Change pumps, Pellet Feeder, Sump Work Light, Lights etc etc running on the DC ports.

I made the conscious decision that if I am running the tank on an automated system, I want to control everything from one interface. I'm currently looking at setting up a CaRX that I have, and that will run completely on Reef-Pi (pH, solenoid control etc)

And who knows what other upgrades the future holds.

 

[elysics]

I'm using the ROBOTANK stuff.

My equipment is set up as follows

Outlet 1 - Return Pump
Outlet 2 - Skimmer
Outlet 3 - My "Flow" pumps behind the rockwork
Outlet 4 - Left Wavemaker
Outlet 5 - Right Wavemaker
Outlet 6 - Other Wavemakers
Outlet 7 - Refugium light
Outlet 8 - Algae Turf Scrubber light
Outlet 9 - Kalk Stirrer motor
Outlet 10 - Heater 1
Outlet 11 - Heater 2
Outlet 12 - Chiller

Then I have ATO pumps, Auto Water Change pumps, Pellet Feeder, Sump Work Light, Lights etc etc running on the DC ports.

I made the conscious decision that if I am running the tank on an automated system, I want to control everything from one interface. I'm currently looking at setting up a CaRX that I have, and that will run completely on Reef-Pi (pH, solenoid control etc)

And who knows what other upgrades the future holds.

Thats a nice setup. I was more questioning whether that level of fine control is absolutely necessary if it becomes an issue of escalating cost.

Completely unrelated to that, always a good idea to have a second level of control on heaters and chillers, so a separate control unit unrelated to reefpi for safety.

 

[Coolhack]

Thats a nice setup. I was more questioning whether that level of fine control is absolutely necessary if it becomes an issue of escalating cost.

Completely unrelated to that, always a good idea to have a second level of control on heaters and chillers, so a separate control unit unrelated to reefpi for safety.

Redundancy!

 

[Des Westcott]

Each of my heaters run through one of these units independant of Reef-Pi

 

[Ranjib]

I use various kasa (hs300, 303, 103,104,110 etc) as well as shelly devices with my builds

 

[Ranjib]

@Coolhack depends also on the devices you are using. For example, cobalt neotherm titanium heaters have very little fluctuations in temperature control, hence I prefer not to use reef-pi to control it aggressively but only to fail safe (switch off/alert when things go wrong), while most other heaters have significantly larger temperature swings (2-3 degrees some time) and I prefer to control them directly with reef-pi.