Beuchat
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This thread is for the general discussion of the Article REEF TANK ELECTRICAL SYSTEM BASIC SECURITY AND BACK UP. Please add to the discussion here.
REEF TANK ELECTRICAL SYSTEM BASIC SECURITY AND BACK UP
- Thread starter Beuchat
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Beuchat
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INTRODUCTION
A reef tank needs a stable and reliable power supply to ensure the correct operation of filtration equipment, return pump and recirculation pumps, lighting system, temperature control and maintenance of water chemistry. An unexpected power failure that is not attended due to absence from home, will cause a disruption of tanks surface gas exchange and tank water oxygenation within the skimmer body. Within two to three hours, fish, corals and other invertebrates will reduce dissolved oxygen to critical levels. Nitrification processes will be also potentially affected resulting in the accumulation of toxic ammonia. The water temperature will no longer be regulated and all mechanical filtration devices will stop. n aquarium under these conditions will start to collapse after several hours, causing a real disaster if not intervened in time. Considering the great effort and capital invested in both equipment and animals, the conclusion is immediate: backup systems are indispensable. It is therefore absolutely necessary to dedicate part of the budget to these elements.
Fig 1. There is always a friend who likes to help with setting up the aquarium.
Among all redundancy and safety systems, two are likely to be of vital importance during a prolonged absence: an IP camera and a power outage alarm. The alarm should send a message to our smartphone in case of a power interruption, so that we can access remotely to the IP camera and check the aquarium’s status. The IP camera should be connected to a small IT UPS so that we can verify the aquarium’s status immediately after the message is received.
Once security and redundancy have been taken into account in the design and installation, it is also advisable to have a protocol of actions to be taken into account before and after a prolonged absence. A basic rule in the days leading up to a prolonged absence is to make no changes to the aquarium's setup beyond the usual maintenance tasks. This means not to install new equipment, such as skimmers, pumps, controllers, level sensors, etc.; in short, any new device that requires supervision during its first days of operation and could potentially fail. It is also not advisable to introduce any new animal, fish, coral, or other invertebrate. If hierarchy conflicts arise, we won’t be able to intervene to address them. Or a newly arrived anemone might start wandering around the aquascape. It’s not very pleasant to watch from a distance through the IP camera (which has happened).
It is advisable to empty or refill all containers used for tank maintenance. Chemical additive containers, automatic KH test reagents, and automatic feeders should be filled to enough capacity to ensure they do not run empty. If using a reservoir for top-off water, we must calculate the necessary volume so that it does not run out. Similarly, placing a several gallons container for skimmer waste is recommended to prevent an overflow after several days. Mechanical filtration media such as filter socks, filter floss, or fiber rolls in rollermat-type systems must be replaced in advanced.
It is a great help to have a trusted hobbyist who has access to the tank in case of an emergency or simply to handle feeding during the owner's absence. This person should have the necessary experience to address urgent situation, such as an ammonia spike or an overdose of a chemical additive. If using socks or filter floss, a third party must take care of their regular replacement or accept the risk of overflow during the absence. One week before leaving (not the day before) is advisable to perform maintenance on peristaltic pumps and calcium reactor to prevent them from stopping during the time away. If the absence is very long, the day before the trip, it is good to run a full set of water quality tests and record the results for comparation upon return. Before leaving, it is also important to run a power outage simulation and check that the recirculation pumps continue to operate supported by the backup batteries and that there is no overflow in the sump, skimmer, or overflow boxes. Once this verification is complete, we reconnect the power and check that all devices return to their normal operating state.
HOME ELECTRICAL INSTALLATION
Electrical main breaker panel has a series of circuit breakers that provide a safe and reliable protection to the electrical installation of the house. Residual-current circuit-breakers cut off the current when an overload is detected (e.g. in the event of an electric shock), while magneto-thermal circuit-breakers are activated due to a short-circuit. This devices save lives.
Fig.2. An independent circuit breaker (orange) is dedicated to reef tank electrical supply.
To protect household appliances and other connected devices, it is advisable to use a separate circuit braker for the tank. In this way, a power failure caused by an aquarium device will only cut off the power supply to the socket where the aquarium is connected, without affecting the rest of the house. The use of an automatic reset braker for the tank's power supply is strongly recommended. This device is designed so that, in the event of a minor and temporary electrical failure that causes a shutdown, it will automatically restart to restore service, generally up to a maximum of three times.
Figure 3. Automatic reset circuit breaker
ELECTRICAL INSTALLATION IN THE AQUARIUM CABINET
The time and effort required to install the aquarium with safety and redundancy may seem superfluous at first, but it will make all the difference in the day-to-day care making the work much easier and more rewarding. If we add up the hours spent troubleshooting that would not be created by a properly done installation, it is obvious that this is the right thing to do.
The proper isolation of the tank’s electrical installation from moisture and splashes is a critical requirement A good solution is to reserve a "dry zone" inside the cabinet, where all AC sockets, power strips, power supplies, and cable connexions are placed. The DC power cables can be routed back to the electronic devices through a cable glands. The aquarium controller and batteries should also be located in the dry zone . Power strip with independent switches are very useful for switching on and off different devices for maintenance, without affecting the rest, e.g. cleaning of the skimmer.
Figure 4. Dry zone on the side of the support cabinet
If this additional space is not available, the rear wall of the cabinet can be an option, as far as it is not exposed to splashes, providing cable glands for the inlet and outlet. Power strips should be always located above the water level and away from the overflows. The cables should be fitted with a safety bend, where the water is retained in the event of a drip, without reaching the socket. The power strips can also be placed in watertight junction boxes.It is very useful to attach labels to all cables, especially in areas where several cables meet. In the event of a power failure, the labels allow the fault to be located quickly, saving time and effort.
To avoid potential electromagnetic interference, the cables carrying the signals from the pH, redox and conductivity probes must be far away from the power supply ones. These probes generate a very weak electric current which can be disturbed by the strong electromagnetic fields generated by AC power cables. This problem has been addressed in many tanks after changing the routing to the controller (fig. 6.7). In case of placing electronic devices inside the sump, e.g. alkalinity controllers or pump drivers, it is highly recommended to install air extractors, so that moisture does not affect them. Any equipment located near water is a candidate to be splashed.
Figure 5. Foldable compartment inside the dry zone where sockets and power supplies are placed.
Figure 6. Cables emerge from the sump water are routed towards the dry zone
Recirculation and skimmer pumps are the most important to protect from a power shut down, as they ensure the most of aquarium water oxygenation. It is convenient to install batteries or inverters that provide DC or AC power for a limited time. Some pump manufacturers offer specific batteries or adaptations can be made from standard batteries. In the event of a long power failure, a pair of recirculating pumps and a heater can be connected to maintain the temperature and oxygenation. The UPS used for computers often do not have sufficient capacity to keep the pumps running for as long as necessary. Back-up systems should have several hours of autonomy, at least the time needed to return home and tackle the problem. A strategy that allows additional time to mitigate the effect of temperature swings during a power failure period is to keep the aquarium water some degrees lower than necessary in summer and the opposite in winter.
Figure 7. Drivers and back-up batteries for the recirculation pumps, controlled power strips and the aquarium controller are safe within the dry zone.
RESIDUAL CURRENT
Equipment such as circulation pumps and heaters are built according to international safety standards and rarely fail. However, even though failures are infrequent, we should not ignore them. When any of these devices lack proper insulation from water, a path is created for the current to flow outside. Electricity flows between two points along the path of greatest voltage difference and least resistance, potentially affecting the animals in the aquarium by passing through their bodies. Similarly, if we place our hand in the water, the current can flow through part of our body, following the path of greatest voltage difference and least resistance. Some negative effects on fish attributed to residual current include lateral line disease, sudden death, and unusual behavior such as clumsy swimming, trembling, or fluttering. However, these effects can also be caused by infectious diseases or environmental factors.
The presence of a residual current can be analyzed using a voltmeter set to AC. Insert the earth probe of the device into the corresponding earth connector of a socket of domestic installation and the other probe into the water. If the meter detects a voltage difference, a residual current might be circulation through aquarium water. To find out which equipment is causing it, it is necessary to disconnect one by one and check the measured values.
In the aquarium market there are available submersible titanium probes available that connect to an earthed plug, so that all the water in the aquarium, which is highly conductive (due to the salinity), is “grounded”. The suitability of this solution is under discussion, as some hobbyists claim that the installation of the probe itself can increase the intensity of any residual current, affecting the animals.
Figure 8. submersible titanium probe
A reef tank needs a stable and reliable power supply to ensure the correct operation of filtration equipment, return pump and recirculation pumps, lighting system, temperature control and maintenance of water chemistry. An unexpected power failure that is not attended due to absence from home, will cause a disruption of tanks surface gas exchange and tank water oxygenation within the skimmer body. Within two to three hours, fish, corals and other invertebrates will reduce dissolved oxygen to critical levels. Nitrification processes will be also potentially affected resulting in the accumulation of toxic ammonia. The water temperature will no longer be regulated and all mechanical filtration devices will stop. n aquarium under these conditions will start to collapse after several hours, causing a real disaster if not intervened in time. Considering the great effort and capital invested in both equipment and animals, the conclusion is immediate: backup systems are indispensable. It is therefore absolutely necessary to dedicate part of the budget to these elements.
Fig 1. There is always a friend who likes to help with setting up the aquarium.
Among all redundancy and safety systems, two are likely to be of vital importance during a prolonged absence: an IP camera and a power outage alarm. The alarm should send a message to our smartphone in case of a power interruption, so that we can access remotely to the IP camera and check the aquarium’s status. The IP camera should be connected to a small IT UPS so that we can verify the aquarium’s status immediately after the message is received.
Once security and redundancy have been taken into account in the design and installation, it is also advisable to have a protocol of actions to be taken into account before and after a prolonged absence. A basic rule in the days leading up to a prolonged absence is to make no changes to the aquarium's setup beyond the usual maintenance tasks. This means not to install new equipment, such as skimmers, pumps, controllers, level sensors, etc.; in short, any new device that requires supervision during its first days of operation and could potentially fail. It is also not advisable to introduce any new animal, fish, coral, or other invertebrate. If hierarchy conflicts arise, we won’t be able to intervene to address them. Or a newly arrived anemone might start wandering around the aquascape. It’s not very pleasant to watch from a distance through the IP camera (which has happened).
It is advisable to empty or refill all containers used for tank maintenance. Chemical additive containers, automatic KH test reagents, and automatic feeders should be filled to enough capacity to ensure they do not run empty. If using a reservoir for top-off water, we must calculate the necessary volume so that it does not run out. Similarly, placing a several gallons container for skimmer waste is recommended to prevent an overflow after several days. Mechanical filtration media such as filter socks, filter floss, or fiber rolls in rollermat-type systems must be replaced in advanced.
It is a great help to have a trusted hobbyist who has access to the tank in case of an emergency or simply to handle feeding during the owner's absence. This person should have the necessary experience to address urgent situation, such as an ammonia spike or an overdose of a chemical additive. If using socks or filter floss, a third party must take care of their regular replacement or accept the risk of overflow during the absence. One week before leaving (not the day before) is advisable to perform maintenance on peristaltic pumps and calcium reactor to prevent them from stopping during the time away. If the absence is very long, the day before the trip, it is good to run a full set of water quality tests and record the results for comparation upon return. Before leaving, it is also important to run a power outage simulation and check that the recirculation pumps continue to operate supported by the backup batteries and that there is no overflow in the sump, skimmer, or overflow boxes. Once this verification is complete, we reconnect the power and check that all devices return to their normal operating state.
HOME ELECTRICAL INSTALLATION
Electrical main breaker panel has a series of circuit breakers that provide a safe and reliable protection to the electrical installation of the house. Residual-current circuit-breakers cut off the current when an overload is detected (e.g. in the event of an electric shock), while magneto-thermal circuit-breakers are activated due to a short-circuit. This devices save lives.
Fig.2. An independent circuit breaker (orange) is dedicated to reef tank electrical supply.
To protect household appliances and other connected devices, it is advisable to use a separate circuit braker for the tank. In this way, a power failure caused by an aquarium device will only cut off the power supply to the socket where the aquarium is connected, without affecting the rest of the house. The use of an automatic reset braker for the tank's power supply is strongly recommended. This device is designed so that, in the event of a minor and temporary electrical failure that causes a shutdown, it will automatically restart to restore service, generally up to a maximum of three times.
Figure 3. Automatic reset circuit breaker
ELECTRICAL INSTALLATION IN THE AQUARIUM CABINET
The time and effort required to install the aquarium with safety and redundancy may seem superfluous at first, but it will make all the difference in the day-to-day care making the work much easier and more rewarding. If we add up the hours spent troubleshooting that would not be created by a properly done installation, it is obvious that this is the right thing to do.
The proper isolation of the tank’s electrical installation from moisture and splashes is a critical requirement A good solution is to reserve a "dry zone" inside the cabinet, where all AC sockets, power strips, power supplies, and cable connexions are placed. The DC power cables can be routed back to the electronic devices through a cable glands. The aquarium controller and batteries should also be located in the dry zone . Power strip with independent switches are very useful for switching on and off different devices for maintenance, without affecting the rest, e.g. cleaning of the skimmer.
Figure 4. Dry zone on the side of the support cabinet
If this additional space is not available, the rear wall of the cabinet can be an option, as far as it is not exposed to splashes, providing cable glands for the inlet and outlet. Power strips should be always located above the water level and away from the overflows. The cables should be fitted with a safety bend, where the water is retained in the event of a drip, without reaching the socket. The power strips can also be placed in watertight junction boxes.It is very useful to attach labels to all cables, especially in areas where several cables meet. In the event of a power failure, the labels allow the fault to be located quickly, saving time and effort.
To avoid potential electromagnetic interference, the cables carrying the signals from the pH, redox and conductivity probes must be far away from the power supply ones. These probes generate a very weak electric current which can be disturbed by the strong electromagnetic fields generated by AC power cables. This problem has been addressed in many tanks after changing the routing to the controller (fig. 6.7). In case of placing electronic devices inside the sump, e.g. alkalinity controllers or pump drivers, it is highly recommended to install air extractors, so that moisture does not affect them. Any equipment located near water is a candidate to be splashed.
Figure 5. Foldable compartment inside the dry zone where sockets and power supplies are placed.
Figure 6. Cables emerge from the sump water are routed towards the dry zone
Recirculation and skimmer pumps are the most important to protect from a power shut down, as they ensure the most of aquarium water oxygenation. It is convenient to install batteries or inverters that provide DC or AC power for a limited time. Some pump manufacturers offer specific batteries or adaptations can be made from standard batteries. In the event of a long power failure, a pair of recirculating pumps and a heater can be connected to maintain the temperature and oxygenation. The UPS used for computers often do not have sufficient capacity to keep the pumps running for as long as necessary. Back-up systems should have several hours of autonomy, at least the time needed to return home and tackle the problem. A strategy that allows additional time to mitigate the effect of temperature swings during a power failure period is to keep the aquarium water some degrees lower than necessary in summer and the opposite in winter.
Figure 7. Drivers and back-up batteries for the recirculation pumps, controlled power strips and the aquarium controller are safe within the dry zone.
RESIDUAL CURRENT
Equipment such as circulation pumps and heaters are built according to international safety standards and rarely fail. However, even though failures are infrequent, we should not ignore them. When any of these devices lack proper insulation from water, a path is created for the current to flow outside. Electricity flows between two points along the path of greatest voltage difference and least resistance, potentially affecting the animals in the aquarium by passing through their bodies. Similarly, if we place our hand in the water, the current can flow through part of our body, following the path of greatest voltage difference and least resistance. Some negative effects on fish attributed to residual current include lateral line disease, sudden death, and unusual behavior such as clumsy swimming, trembling, or fluttering. However, these effects can also be caused by infectious diseases or environmental factors.
The presence of a residual current can be analyzed using a voltmeter set to AC. Insert the earth probe of the device into the corresponding earth connector of a socket of domestic installation and the other probe into the water. If the meter detects a voltage difference, a residual current might be circulation through aquarium water. To find out which equipment is causing it, it is necessary to disconnect one by one and check the measured values.
In the aquarium market there are available submersible titanium probes available that connect to an earthed plug, so that all the water in the aquarium, which is highly conductive (due to the salinity), is “grounded”. The suitability of this solution is under discussion, as some hobbyists claim that the installation of the probe itself can increase the intensity of any residual current, affecting the animals.
Figure 8. submersible titanium probe
I have never seen such a neat installation. I have to read it again. Did I see an Arc Protection device or not. Also after all that would you get a back up automatic generator instead?
OP
OP
Beuchat
Active Member
Hi Freenow54, those are standard ground fault circuit interrupters. Arc Protection device are usually used to protect computers and other IT equipment. I think a back-up generator can be used instead of batteries, but it should switch on automatically in the event of a power cut.
well I have told this story too many times but I did not put a drip leg on a line going to my power bar and my hob skimmer overflowed allowing water to drip on the bar it resulted in a melt down and almost my home gone. I still have not put one on my 4 inlet receptacle like an idiot
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