I went with the eheim heater. Now it's impossible to adjust the dial due to the location in my sump. Plus reading about heater failures I'm thinking safety wise maybe a controller of some kind? It needs to be very simple. I don't need wifi but an alert if it's high or low would be nice. Lights already on their own controller. Just need something for the heater that can be plugged into a power strip that I turn on and off at times for water changes.
Replaced heater now controller?
- Thread starter Cflip
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I have the same recommendation as I posted in your other thread. Ranco is a solid very reliable option and inkbird or bayite are a good alternative or backup controller.
So, lets merge threads
I hate heaters. They all will fail at some time in some way. I change my heaters out every two years. Any even number year is how I remember it.
Good reads
http://www.beananimal.com/articles/aquarium-heaters-what-you-need-to-know!.aspx
I would always recommend at least two methods of controlling the temp. The temp control on the heater being either the primary or backup or if it doesn't have a built in thermostat two external ones which is my preference. There are many choices out there now.
I've used the Ranco controllers for many many years. Never one issue. I also bought a Reefkeeper light many moons ago too to help be a backup to the ranco plus some other basic functions like ATO. I've since upgraded the reefkeeper many times and also switched to an Apex since then.
I also switched from the Jagers to a more compact titanium heater and much higher wattage. But does not have built in controlls which is better IMO. My options were then to use the Ranco as the primary or the Apex as the primary. Both had some draw backs. The Ranco allows full degree swings in temp before kicking on and off. The Apex has tighter resolution and controll but the tighter you get the more often the heater will kick on and off which is ok for the heater but the outlet relay will eventually wear out which is an expensive outlet. All switches will wear out and usually stuck on and why you want redundant heating controllers.
So, I got another controller. Inkbird gets some good reviews which are cheap. I decided to go with another option with a bayite dual stage prewired controller.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01K...ler+bayite&dpPl=1&dpID=41yjLXWgVqL&ref=plSrch
It supports .1 degree resolution and I really liked it's compact design.
You can see the Rancos and the Bayites I have mounted here
One for each heater, each is plugged into a different power bar, and each power bar is connected to a separate dedicated GFCI/CAFCI 20amp circuit.
I would suggest multiple heaters over a single one. So, my heater itself is on or off thats it. The Bayite is the main controller. It is maintaining temps between 79.2-79.5. The bayites are plugged into the Ranco (which I trust more then any other controller). The Ranco is set to shutdown at 82 degrees. Then the Rancos plugged into the Apex Powerbars. The Apex will shut those down if the temp hits 83 degrees.
I'm pretty well set and protected against a heater/controller stuck on, a heater/controller stuck off by having multiple heaters (800 watts each), and a single breaker/fuse blowing by having two of everything and two separate dedicated circuites.
Some will advocate multiple smaller heaters in case one gets stuck on but if one gets stuck off the redundant heater needs to be able to pick up and heat everything. I'd rather have multiple redundant controllers and a heater if needed to run by itself to be able to heat everything it's supposed too. That's just my opinion and strategy to cover multiple ways a heater could fail. The GFCI to protect me from leaking voltage which has happened and the CAFCI to protect the house from burning down due to a faulty heater which has happened. Then a good surge protector to protect the controllers.
A heater could potentially last many many years. Some, a few days. YMMV
Only problem with a heater failure is they are usually deadly failures. If they are fully submerged they often start leaking and could at best shock you and at worse electrocute you. GFCI is a must. The leaking voltage could cause all sorts of issues with life in the tank.
Sometimes they just burst and at best leak nasty stuff into the water that again life in the tank won't like. And at worse the side of the tank its by cracks and drains out all the water. And at the very worse cause a fire. CAFCI is highly suggested here. GFCI won't be enough at times.
Then most common is they get stuck on which at best if you don't scale down the heater and run multiple of them or don't have redundant heat controllers is your tank runs a little hotter then normal stressing your tank inhabitants. At worse runs your tank a lot hotter then normal killing life in the tank.
And sometimes could get stuck off causing at best the tank to run a little cooler then normal or at worse a lot colder.
All will cause some kind of irritation and possible death or damage to something. All has happened and unfortunately will happen again to someone.
So, lets merge threads
I hate heaters. They all will fail at some time in some way. I change my heaters out every two years. Any even number year is how I remember it.
Good reads
http://www.beananimal.com/articles/aquarium-heaters-what-you-need-to-know!.aspx
I would always recommend at least two methods of controlling the temp. The temp control on the heater being either the primary or backup or if it doesn't have a built in thermostat two external ones which is my preference. There are many choices out there now.
I've used the Ranco controllers for many many years. Never one issue. I also bought a Reefkeeper light many moons ago too to help be a backup to the ranco plus some other basic functions like ATO. I've since upgraded the reefkeeper many times and also switched to an Apex since then.
I also switched from the Jagers to a more compact titanium heater and much higher wattage. But does not have built in controlls which is better IMO. My options were then to use the Ranco as the primary or the Apex as the primary. Both had some draw backs. The Ranco allows full degree swings in temp before kicking on and off. The Apex has tighter resolution and controll but the tighter you get the more often the heater will kick on and off which is ok for the heater but the outlet relay will eventually wear out which is an expensive outlet. All switches will wear out and usually stuck on and why you want redundant heating controllers.
So, I got another controller. Inkbird gets some good reviews which are cheap. I decided to go with another option with a bayite dual stage prewired controller.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01K...ler+bayite&dpPl=1&dpID=41yjLXWgVqL&ref=plSrch
It supports .1 degree resolution and I really liked it's compact design.
You can see the Rancos and the Bayites I have mounted here
One for each heater, each is plugged into a different power bar, and each power bar is connected to a separate dedicated GFCI/CAFCI 20amp circuit.
I would suggest multiple heaters over a single one. So, my heater itself is on or off thats it. The Bayite is the main controller. It is maintaining temps between 79.2-79.5. The bayites are plugged into the Ranco (which I trust more then any other controller). The Ranco is set to shutdown at 82 degrees. Then the Rancos plugged into the Apex Powerbars. The Apex will shut those down if the temp hits 83 degrees.
I'm pretty well set and protected against a heater/controller stuck on, a heater/controller stuck off by having multiple heaters (800 watts each), and a single breaker/fuse blowing by having two of everything and two separate dedicated circuites.
Some will advocate multiple smaller heaters in case one gets stuck on but if one gets stuck off the redundant heater needs to be able to pick up and heat everything. I'd rather have multiple redundant controllers and a heater if needed to run by itself to be able to heat everything it's supposed too. That's just my opinion and strategy to cover multiple ways a heater could fail. The GFCI to protect me from leaking voltage which has happened and the CAFCI to protect the house from burning down due to a faulty heater which has happened. Then a good surge protector to protect the controllers.
A heater could potentially last many many years. Some, a few days. YMMV
Only problem with a heater failure is they are usually deadly failures. If they are fully submerged they often start leaking and could at best shock you and at worse electrocute you. GFCI is a must. The leaking voltage could cause all sorts of issues with life in the tank.
Sometimes they just burst and at best leak nasty stuff into the water that again life in the tank won't like. And at worse the side of the tank its by cracks and drains out all the water. And at the very worse cause a fire. CAFCI is highly suggested here. GFCI won't be enough at times.
Then most common is they get stuck on which at best if you don't scale down the heater and run multiple of them or don't have redundant heat controllers is your tank runs a little hotter then normal stressing your tank inhabitants. At worse runs your tank a lot hotter then normal killing life in the tank.
And sometimes could get stuck off causing at best the tank to run a little cooler then normal or at worse a lot colder.
All will cause some kind of irritation and possible death or damage to something. All has happened and unfortunately will happen again to someone.
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I found the Ranco slightly easier but both not hard at all and both plug into any standard US 120v wall receptacle.
Image was only to show what the Ranco and Bayite look like. I like the design of the Bayite as it fit my space well. Read what I wrote though.
I highly recommend at minimum two ways to control and more importantly stop the heater from running.
I highly recommend at least two heaters which means double the ways to control the heaters.
I highly recommend each heater on a completely separate electrical circuit
I highly recommend each circuit to be both CAFCI and GFCI and the use of a good surge protector
I recommend each circuit to be dedicated to the tank.
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When dealing with equipment electrical safety should be thought of. When dealing with heaters this is multiplied as they are like shoving a toaster into your water with a thin protective layer over it that can be compromised.
My standard copy paste for electrical safety concerns and recommendation for a CAFCI and GFCI circuits.
On CAFCI, GFCI, and Surge Protection to protect your house, yourself, and your equipment.
I like redundancy and as much protection against equipment failures as possible. Things like Heaters and power strips in our hobby have created more havoc then necessary with the occasional fun dip of lights into the tank...
I would also suggest a CAFCI along with GFCI
CAFCI will help protect your house from fire
GFCI will help protect you from electrocution
And a good surge protector will help protect your equipment.
Individual one shown above. Tripplite makes some good ones. Be warned some newer surge protection devices will stop power from flowing all together once it can no longer provide surge protection. This is actually a good thing IMO for many things like computers/tv/etc but NOT a good thing, again IMO, for many other things like refrigerators, freezers, our aquariums, etc. Some will make an audible alarm when exhausted which is nice too.
Plus a whole home. None last forever and will need replaced eventually based on how many surges and intensity of surges they've been hit by. Surges can come from outside your home, not just lightening strikes, and from inside the home.
Eaton Ultra and SquareD hepd80 are a couple good whole home surge protectors.
Plus having more then one circuit with life support spread across them. I have two additional circuits then what's pictured above to my main tank on the first floor with GFCI at the receptacles so its easier to reset them if tripped. Then the two shown in the picture above go to my basement sump with the GFCI at the breaker. Along with being a CAFCI. There are also AFCI breakers but don't protect against as many arc faults as a CAFCI.
And don't get confused by combination AFCI (CAFCI). That doesn't mean it combines GFCI with it. The packaging has to specify GFCI as well to support both CAFCI and GFCI. Sometimes called dual.
Here's some visuals
And CAFCI protects against both of these where AFCI only parallel
In the US the NEC will typically require a class A GFCI protection in places like a bathroom (fishtank) which trips at 6mA. Some places like commercial applications can use class C, D, or E that trip at 20mA.
http://m.csemag.com/index.php?id=9575&tx_ttnews[tt_news]=102229&cHash=89c8746cdc4a7fd8a3cb93f1d51ba57a
My standard copy paste for electrical safety concerns and recommendation for a CAFCI and GFCI circuits.
On CAFCI, GFCI, and Surge Protection to protect your house, yourself, and your equipment.
I like redundancy and as much protection against equipment failures as possible. Things like Heaters and power strips in our hobby have created more havoc then necessary with the occasional fun dip of lights into the tank...
I would also suggest a CAFCI along with GFCI
CAFCI will help protect your house from fire
GFCI will help protect you from electrocution
And a good surge protector will help protect your equipment.
Individual one shown above. Tripplite makes some good ones. Be warned some newer surge protection devices will stop power from flowing all together once it can no longer provide surge protection. This is actually a good thing IMO for many things like computers/tv/etc but NOT a good thing, again IMO, for many other things like refrigerators, freezers, our aquariums, etc. Some will make an audible alarm when exhausted which is nice too.
Plus a whole home. None last forever and will need replaced eventually based on how many surges and intensity of surges they've been hit by. Surges can come from outside your home, not just lightening strikes, and from inside the home.
Eaton Ultra and SquareD hepd80 are a couple good whole home surge protectors.
Plus having more then one circuit with life support spread across them. I have two additional circuits then what's pictured above to my main tank on the first floor with GFCI at the receptacles so its easier to reset them if tripped. Then the two shown in the picture above go to my basement sump with the GFCI at the breaker. Along with being a CAFCI. There are also AFCI breakers but don't protect against as many arc faults as a CAFCI.
And don't get confused by combination AFCI (CAFCI). That doesn't mean it combines GFCI with it. The packaging has to specify GFCI as well to support both CAFCI and GFCI. Sometimes called dual.
Here's some visuals
And CAFCI protects against both of these where AFCI only parallel
In the US the NEC will typically require a class A GFCI protection in places like a bathroom (fishtank) which trips at 6mA. Some places like commercial applications can use class C, D, or E that trip at 20mA.
http://m.csemag.com/index.php?id=9575&tx_ttnews[tt_news]=102229&cHash=89c8746cdc4a7fd8a3cb93f1d51ba57a
So I'm learning you pretty much have to be a plumber and an electrician to have a salt water tank. Or add chemist in there too. Struggle with all three right now. Takes hours to get to my outlet because it's behind my sump! That was yesterday's project. Still not sure it's fixed. Time will tell.
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211 is the one I got and comes with a temp probe.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01K...ler+bayite&dpPl=1&dpID=41yjLXWgVqL&ref=plSrch
This is the Ranco I have and it does come prewired
http://www.etcsupply.com/ranco-etc1...r-p-87.html?osCsid=11ek82q5blql3k7ob5modbddi4
You will either need to coat the temp probe in silicone which I've done or you can have them apply a thermal well. Or you can as well.
http://www.etcsupply.com/thermal-well-for-aquariums-clear-pvc-heat-shrink-tubing-p-150.html
The bayite is supposed to be a high quality stainless probe but I coated it in silicone too.
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Most any 100% silicone sealant with no mold/mildew inhibitors would work. My local Lowes has this along with most petstores that sell aquariums like Petco.
http://www.petco.com/shop/en/petcostore/product/all-glass-silicone-aquarium-sealant
pickupman66
5000 Club Member
Great Info Here! Good Job Jason. I run a heater with ints own internal control. it is set to 79 and my Archon Controller controls it to 77.5 set point. this way I have the redundancy of that backup. However, that heater began to fail to produce enough heat for my tank, so I had to grab one of my spares that I use for heating water change water. It is non controllable. as a backup, one of the system alarms will now kill power to my return pump in the event the tank begins to heat toward a critical level. I set this in case the heater relay stuck on.
Salty Dog
Valuable Member
I remember when I would go thru two 1000 watt heaters a year. Very frustrating and expensive. I built a stainless steel loop that is in my sump and connected to my boiler. Works great .
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