Replacing sump on year old setup...how difficult is this ?!

[hans4811]

Have a RedSea Reefer 250 running for about a year now and tired of the cramped sump that it came with. Want to swap it with a Triton26-v2 as this has an integrated refugium that I want to setup...tired of my noisy ATS Rain2, plus it's never really dropped my Nitrates/Phosphates that much. Dosing NoPox to get that done now. This Triton sump is 26" long so I'll have to move all my electronics out to an external cabinet of some sort to make room for it...whole different set of problems there !

Never having swapped a sump on a running aquarium before...how difficult is this going to be ? This will involve rerouting my 2 drain pipes and return line, which is my main concern. The Red Sea has an overflow compartment integrated inside the tank, which I'll have to drain somehow, as these 3 pipes screw into the bottom of this overflow. So I'm sure that's going to be a mess.

Just worried that, like with any project, something will be missed...a pvc fitting, or a gasket breaks...whatever...and now my sump is out of commission. I have visions of a total catastrophe in my head...or am I overthinking this !?

Anybody that's done this give me some advice or tips ?

And if anybody has any comments on the Triton26-v2 sump, would like to hear about those also !

Thanks...!

 

[sunken3]

i have the trigger 44v2 sump.. i bought it to replace a smaller trigger - today i JUST bought a trigger platinum 39. i like the 44 for the extra water, but am tired of the filter socks - and am looking sooooo forward to the fleece roller (you may want to consider this in your thought process - and all the trigger seem to be on sale now).

that said, when i swapped out my sump last time (cramped cabinet under a 250g tank - fully stocked). i didn't really have any big issues. make sure you have extras for everything that connect the tank to the sump just in case... otherwise keep flow in the tank (and a lot at the surface to ensure the fish are getting plenty of aeration).

i am not familiar with your overflow, but most bigger tanks overflow is strong enough that they can withstand a lack of water pressure equalization (small nano's that use thin plastic are a different story).

bigggest advice be very careful about bumping /moving your overflow pipes.. it is very easy to hit one and with the length of the pipes the leverage easily will unseal it and allow any sand/crap under the seal and cause it to leak..

at that point your only recourse is to completely dissassemble your bulkheads drain the overflow, clean it all out and start like new... a total pain

 

[sunken3]

make sure there is enough aeration if it is going to be a long time.. i made the mistake once and killed a bucket full of long time fish.. :(

 

[hans4811]

Thought about those platinum ones with the roller, but seeing a lot of issues with them still...may wait till they work out the bugs on those. But yes...sick of socks as well !

Think I’m okay with the pressure on the overflow...it’s pretty thick glass on the Red Sea...I hope ...actually never thought of that, but good point.

That last part is what worries me...not sure what would happen on the Red Sea 250. I think I’d have to drain the overflow box only as there is a weir along the top, so I don’t think I’m talking about draining half my tank or anything.

For aeration, I’ll still be able to run my 2 mp10s, so should be ok there, rite ?

Post back on the platinum sump, would like to hear what you think...it’s not totally out of my decision yet.

 

[01xp]

Should be enough air but if your worried a air pump with stone can't hurt

 

[sunken3]

Thought about those platinum ones with the roller, but seeing a lot of issues with them still...may wait till they work out the bugs on those. But yes...sick of socks as well !

Think I’m okay with the pressure on the overflow...it’s pretty thick glass on the Red Sea...I hope ...actually never thought of that, but good point.

That last part is what worries me...not sure what would happen on the Red Sea 250. I think I’d have to drain the overflow box only as there is a weir along the top, so I don’t think I’m talking about draining half my tank or anything.

For aeration, I’ll still be able to run my 2 mp10s, so should be ok there, rite ?

Post back on the platinum sump, would like to hear what you think...it’s not totally out of my decision yet.

well i did read about wiring issues and weak motors originally - but it sounds (from reading) that most of that has been taken care of (crossing fingers).

on the potential over flow seal leak - i guess what i mean is - try to move them as little as possible - just be careful. when the tank was new and only water by the seals its not a big deal - as time goes on and sand, dirt, detritus etc gets back there it only takes a small giggle to allow some of that to get sucked under the bulkhead seal and start a drip that you cannot stop with disassembly.

i'd put one of the pumps near the waters edge to ensure you get a rippling effect (and therefore aeration). and airstone near a pump will help.. also - it really depends on how long it takes you to complete the task

ya i will find a spot out here to comment on the trigger. i am hoping for amazing results !!

good luck

 

[hans4811]

Anybody else swapped out a sump with a story to tell ?

 

[Mz. Fix It]

Ran upon this post because I too am wanting to change out my "stock" sump that came with my Red Sea 525XL. The LFS I purchased it from came out and set everything up for me, which was nice but now I'm flying solo if I move forward with changing out to a Trigger 34V2. The guy that set my current tank up for me used the 5 gallon ATO reservoir that Red Sea includes with the tank combo to make me a refugium. It has been sorta ok but I too find that it is way too small and certainly very much in the way of everything in my sump on the right side, as it sits up on a bracket system that sits over the socks and area where the water flows down from the overflow.

One of my biggest concerns is the current set up has the down pipes from the overflow going in on the right side but the Trigger sump has them going in on the left side. Would it be a solid choice to turn the sump around backwards, causing some inconveniences by going that route?

I could also consider putting the Trigger in correctly and using rigid or flex PVC to route the overflow pipes to the left side (currently it flows straight down from the overflow) in the middle of the stand (far right of the sump under the cabinet).

Currently my return pump is on the left side of the sump and the plumbing has several 90's connecting the rigid PVC to the return pipe, also coming down from the middle of the stand (far right in the sump itself) so in theory I'm assuming my return flow will increase going straight up versus making those turns. Plus, the guy plumbed the refugium in so that the return pump sends water to both the refugium and back into the tank so with a new set up the return pump would not have to supply water flow to the refugium, which I like much better.

The small chamber of the sump where the water returns back from the tank that I currently have is impossible to get to due to the refugium being mounted over the top of that area of the sump. I had contemplated months back about removing that 5 gallon refugium tank and use a remote tank outside the cabinet to build a much larger refugium but I could not wrap my mind around the best way to plumb everything in correctly so I got over that idea....not to mention the visual of a refugium outside the stand not being all that appealing, etc.

I used a flash light to see into the back chamber where the water enters the sump and with the very little bit I can actually see it appears the overflow pipes do not come down into the sump individually once it reaches that chamber but goes into a connector that combines both pipes into one. Any advice/cautions on cutting those pipes off so they will be two separate pipes to pipe over into the refugium that would then be on the far left in the new Trigger sump will be greatly appreciated.

The overflow pipe furthest to the right has a knob (Red Sea installed) that is used to adjust the water level in the overflow. I'm assuming it is imperative that I do not cut too close to that adjustment knob? Or in theory I could cut it out and use a flow control valve of some sort for adjustment purposes (or do this if I screw up something in my cutting)?

What I'm scratching my head about is the fact that the Trigger sump states the sump holds 31 gallons, as does the Red Sea sump that came with the tank. The RS sump is substantially larger in dimensions than the Trigger.....height, width and depth.....so I'm confused as to how they can both claim they hold the exact same amount of water. Things that make one go hmmmmmm. Besides getting a much larger refugium with the Trigger I like that it is much smaller and will allow some much desired space around the sump to get my hands around it. The RS sump is snug as a bug in a rug inside that cabinet and does not allow for anything to be clamped to the back or sides. If you try to clamp something to the front there's a strong possibility the doors will hit it when you close them.

I also like that the Trigger sump is much lighter in weight because it's acrylic....but I worry about the horror stories of scratching, etc......but since it's a sump that is meant to be hidden I'm not as overly concerned about the aesthetics at this point.

Thanks in advance for any advice anyone can offer.

This picture shows the knob back behind the refugium I am concerned about.

This picture I am trying to show the back chamber where the overflow brings water down from the tank.

This picture is just a snap shot of the set up. You can see the 5 gallon tank RS adds to the setup for an ATO system that we converted over to a refugium.

This picture was taken a few months back when the sump was far cleaner than it is now. Included it because I think it shows the back chamber where the overflow drops in as well as the refugium better.

 

[sunken3]

Ran upon this post because I too am wanting to change out my "stock" sump that came with my Red Sea 525XL. The LFS I purchased it from came out and set everything up for me, which was nice but now I'm flying solo if I move forward with changing out to a Trigger 34V2. The guy that set my current tank up for me used the 5 gallon ATO reservoir that Red Sea includes with the tank combo to make me a refugium. It has been sorta ok but I too find that it is way too small and certainly very much in the way of everything in my sump on the right side, as it sits up on a bracket system that sits over the socks and area where the water flows down from the overflow.

One of my biggest concerns is the current set up has the down pipes from the overflow going in on the right side but the Trigger sump has them going in on the left side. Would it be a solid choice to turn the sump around backwards, causing some inconveniences by going that route?

I could also consider putting the Trigger in correctly and using rigid or flex PVC to route the overflow pipes to the left side (currently it flows straight down from the overflow) in the middle of the stand (far right of the sump under the cabinet).

Currently my return pump is on the left side of the sump and the plumbing has several 90's connecting the rigid PVC to the return pipe, also coming down from the middle of the stand (far right in the sump itself) so in theory I'm assuming my return flow will increase going straight up versus making those turns. Plus, the guy plumbed the refugium in so that the return pump sends water to both the refugium and back into the tank so with a new set up the return pump would not have to supply water flow to the refugium, which I like much better.

The small chamber of the sump where the water returns back from the tank that I currently have is impossible to get to due to the refugium being mounted over the top of that area of the sump. I had contemplated months back about removing that 5 gallon refugium tank and use a remote tank outside the cabinet to build a much larger refugium but I could not wrap my mind around the best way to plumb everything in correctly so I got over that idea....not to mention the visual of a refugium outside the stand not being all that appealing, etc.

I used a flash light to see into the back chamber where the water enters the sump and with the very little bit I can actually see it appears the overflow pipes do not come down into the sump individually once it reaches that chamber but goes into a connector that combines both pipes into one. Any advice/cautions on cutting those pipes off so they will be two separate pipes to pipe over into the refugium that would then be on the far left in the new Trigger sump will be greatly appreciated.

The overflow pipe furthest to the right has a knob (Red Sea installed) that is used to adjust the water level in the overflow. I'm assuming it is imperative that I do not cut too close to that adjustment knob? Or in theory I could cut it out and use a flow control valve of some sort for adjustment purposes (or do this if I screw up something in my cutting)?

What I'm scratching my head about is the fact that the Trigger sump states the sump holds 31 gallons, as does the Red Sea sump that came with the tank. The RS sump is substantially larger in dimensions than the Trigger.....height, width and depth.....so I'm confused as to how they can both claim they hold the exact same amount of water. Things that make one go hmmmmmm. Besides getting a much larger refugium with the Trigger I like that it is much smaller and will allow some much desired space around the sump to get my hands around it. The RS sump is snug as a bug in a rug inside that cabinet and does not allow for anything to be clamped to the back or sides. If you try to clamp something to the front there's a strong possibility the doors will hit it when you close them.

I also like that the Trigger sump is much lighter in weight because it's acrylic....but I worry about the horror stories of scratching, etc......but since it's a sump that is meant to be hidden I'm not as overly concerned about the aesthetics at this point.

Thanks in advance for any advice anyone can offer.

This picture shows the knob back behind the refugium I am concerned about.

This picture I am trying to show the back chamber where the overflow brings water down from the tank.

This picture is just a snap shot of the set up. You can see the 5 gallon tank RS adds to the setup for an ATO system that we converted over to a refugium.

This picture was taken a few months back when the sump was far cleaner than it is now. Included it because I think it shows the back chamber where the overflow drops in as well as the refugium better.

on the volume of water the sumps hold.. my guess is the difference is one (or both) maybe calculating capacity based on recommended water height. calculating the actual total volume is easy for both (L*W*H)/231 using inches and converting to gallons.

 

[hans4811]

Ran upon this post because I too am wanting to change out my "stock" sump that came with my Red Sea 525XL. The LFS I purchased it from came out and set everything up for me, which was nice but now I'm flying solo if I move forward with changing out to a Trigger 34V2. The guy that set my current tank up for me used the 5 gallon ATO reservoir that Red Sea includes with the tank combo to make me a refugium. It has been sorta ok but I too find that it is way too small and certainly very much in the way of everything in my sump on the right side, as it sits up on a bracket system that sits over the socks and area where the water flows down from the overflow.

One of my biggest concerns is the current set up has the down pipes from the overflow going in on the right side but the Trigger sump has them going in on the left side. Would it be a solid choice to turn the sump around backwards, causing some inconveniences by going that route?

I could also consider putting the Trigger in correctly and using rigid or flex PVC to route the overflow pipes to the left side (currently it flows straight down from the overflow) in the middle of the stand (far right of the sump under the cabinet).

Currently my return pump is on the left side of the sump and the plumbing has several 90's connecting the rigid PVC to the return pipe, also coming down from the middle of the stand (far right in the sump itself) so in theory I'm assuming my return flow will increase going straight up versus making those turns. Plus, the guy plumbed the refugium in so that the return pump sends water to both the refugium and back into the tank so with a new set up the return pump would not have to supply water flow to the refugium, which I like much better.

The small chamber of the sump where the water returns back from the tank that I currently have is impossible to get to due to the refugium being mounted over the top of that area of the sump. I had contemplated months back about removing that 5 gallon refugium tank and use a remote tank outside the cabinet to build a much larger refugium but I could not wrap my mind around the best way to plumb everything in correctly so I got over that idea....not to mention the visual of a refugium outside the stand not being all that appealing, etc.

I used a flash light to see into the back chamber where the water enters the sump and with the very little bit I can actually see it appears the overflow pipes do not come down into the sump individually once it reaches that chamber but goes into a connector that combines both pipes into one. Any advice/cautions on cutting those pipes off so they will be two separate pipes to pipe over into the refugium that would then be on the far left in the new Trigger sump will be greatly appreciated.

The overflow pipe furthest to the right has a knob (Red Sea installed) that is used to adjust the water level in the overflow. I'm assuming it is imperative that I do not cut too close to that adjustment knob? Or in theory I could cut it out and use a flow control valve of some sort for adjustment purposes (or do this if I screw up something in my cutting)?

What I'm scratching my head about is the fact that the Trigger sump states the sump holds 31 gallons, as does the Red Sea sump that came with the tank. The RS sump is substantially larger in dimensions than the Trigger.....height, width and depth.....so I'm confused as to how they can both claim they hold the exact same amount of water. Things that make one go hmmmmmm. Besides getting a much larger refugium with the Trigger I like that it is much smaller and will allow some much desired space around the sump to get my hands around it. The RS sump is snug as a bug in a rug inside that cabinet and does not allow for anything to be clamped to the back or sides. If you try to clamp something to the front there's a strong possibility the doors will hit it when you close them.

I also like that the Trigger sump is much lighter in weight because it's acrylic....but I worry about the horror stories of scratching, etc......but since it's a sump that is meant to be hidden I'm not as overly concerned about the aesthetics at this point.

Thanks in advance for any advice anyone can offer.

This picture shows the knob back behind the refugium I am concerned about.

This picture I am trying to show the back chamber where the overflow brings water down from the tank.

This picture is just a snap shot of the set up. You can see the 5 gallon tank RS adds to the setup for an ATO system that we converted over to a refugium.

This picture was taken a few months back when the sump was far cleaner than it is now. Included it because I think it shows the back chamber where the overflow drops in as well as the refugium better.

Fixit...swapping your sump backwards I don’t think will help much, you’re still going to have to replumb things I would think, which is my main concern as well.

As far as the gate valve on your overflow pipe, you can search here for that as many have done it...I plan to as well if I make this sump change. Here’s an example of one, around page 2. Here

If you look at the Trigger Triton sumps, they have integrated a large refug in the sump, which is one of the reasons I’m looking at it. Might consider that...also consider looking at Avast Marines ATO, which is what I have. This eliminates the need of having a container at all. I copied this guys setup and its worked flawlessly. Hooked up to my 45g Brute RODI container...https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/avast-marine-ato-apex-connected.249110/

 

[Spieg]

If you do need to redo PVC plumbing, be sure to allow 24 hours for the cement to cure before running tank water through the system. I would suggest setting up an air pump in case the project ends up taking longer than expected (if you discover you need specialized fittings, it could become a multi day project). I have run into unexpected problems before and used vinyl tubing to hookup the old sump outside of the stand temporarily to keep things running. Also if your heater is in the sump, I'd move it to the tank before you get started.

 

[hans4811]

If you do need to redo PVC plumbing, be sure to allow 24 hours for the cement to cure before running tank water through the system. I would suggest setting up an air pump in case the project ends up taking longer than expected (if you discover you need specialized fittings, it could become a multi day project). I have run into unexpected problems before and used vinyl tubing to hookup the old sump outside of the stand temporarily to keep things running. Also if your heater is in the sump, I'd move it to the tank before you get started.

Some good points and what I’m worried about...running into unexpected problems and turning into days...may rethink this swap, I just don’t know

 

[ca1ore]

I’ve swapped out sumps on a running reef tank a few times, though I have always made them myself from standard aquariums. If you can easily remove the old sump and slip in the new one it’s pretty straightforward.

You need to think about what functions the sump serves for the tank, and put temporary measures in place. Circulation/oxygenation and heating are most likely to be the biggest potential problems. Make sure to have a bunch of plumbing supplies on hand. It’s easier to return unused items at your leisure than make that emergency HD trip. The whole solvent dry time thing is a bit of a red herring. I’ve used solvent welded joints on a reef tank 5 minutes after application. Just apply solvent to the pipe only .... this prevents any pooling inside the pipe.

 

[hans4811]

If you can easily remove the old sump and slip in the new one it’s pretty straightforward.

Yea and that’s my worry @ca1ore , it would involve replumbing both drain pipes and return. The RS250 I have now, the drain pipes and return come down about midway. The Triton Trigger sump has them on the far left...sooo..
Heating here in Fla isn’t an issue really right now, I’m more worried about my overflow box and the pipes inside as mentioned before...them coming loose or having an issue with the new plumbing...maybe I should just upgrade to that new Cade 1500 I’ve been eyeing !!