Replumbing a full and stocked 90, suggestions please

[Hemmdog]

@Hemmdog I might need to use some of your suggestions to make mine quiet too.

Niceee lol. I could tolerate it, the wife cannot. If our house gets flooded from me replumbing it... her fault ... lol.

 

[Katrina71]

Crap. I'll have nobody to blame!

 

[Hemmdog]

Crap. I'll have nobody to blame!

Blame @dantimdad for making it sound so simple lol.

 

[dantimdad]

If you need more help along the way PM me.

 

[Hemmdog]

If you need more help along the way PM me.

Will do. Thanks again

 

[Hemmdog]

Oh, right angles in plumbing; I did this previously, was that a rookie move? I see most people with two 45degree elbows when they are making corners. Just trying to plan this out.

 

[dantimdad]

Nope no need for two 45s BRS actually has a video about it.

 

[ReefGeezer]

I have a 90. The return pump is about 400+ GPH. It has a 1" hole in the bottom. That's common. I have a Durso made from 1.25" PVC (The biggest diameter that would fit) per the original Durso plans + a small valve to control the flow of air + a rigid tube that moves the air inlet deeper down the tube. It's quieter than my old MP40.

 

[jsvand5]

I wouldn’t even bother with moving the heater out of your sump. You can probably finish the plumbing in 30 mins or so. Just have to cut the 3/4 pipe short, raise the 1” pipe up a bit, add the gate valve to the 3/4” line and you’re done. Then I’d let the pvc cure for an hour or so. If you don’t already have one, a cheap PVC cutter is a great tool to have. So much better than using a hacksaw. The temp in your display isn’t going to change much at all in that amount of time.

Not sure if you have one now, but I’d definitely put a cover in the overflow box and cover the holes left from the return to prevent snail, hermits, and fish from getting in an possibly blocking a drain

 

[Hemmdog]

I wouldn’t even bother with moving the heater out of your sump. You can probably finish the plumbing in 30 mins or so. Just have to cut the 3/4 pipe short, raise the 1” pipe up a bit, add the gate valve to the 3/4” line and you’re done. Then I’d let the pvc cure for an hour or so. If you don’t already have one, a cheap PVC cutter is a great tool to have. So much better than using a hacksaw. The temp in your display isn’t going to change much at all in that amount of time.

Not sure if you have one now, but I’d definitely put a cover in the overflow box and cover the holes left from the return to prevent snail, hermits, and fish from getting in an possibly blocking a drain

That’s a good idea, I’ll look into that, thanks

 

[Dburr1014]

hello,
My 90gal is 7 months running. I plumbed it with a durso style drain which the noise level has always been fairly loud. Now that the tank is more established the plumbing seems to be getting even louder, my wife can’t take it anymore, she says I need to do something ASAP. So I’d like to start planning this and get it done sometime late feb early March.
I plumbed it durso style because the tank was predrilled and didn’t have enough holes for a bean animal. Looking back on it I should of researched plumbing more, and less about corals lol.
My goal is to switch the plumbing to a herbie style in my overflow, and route the return up the back of the tank. How will I do this? If I drain the overflow box and the tank below the weirs will I have ample time to work on the plumbing? Can I just leave my gyres going and toss a heater in the display? My tank is doing really good, inhabitants seem happy, so I would prefer to not have to drain it if possible.
Also pvc curing time, the product I used last time, Kristies, said to let cure for 24 hours, I believe. I have seen some people let it cure for as little as 3 hours and be successful, but how risky is that? Is it a risk to my tank with the residual chemicals or is it a risk to the pipes of coming undone.
If I’m going to redo my plumbing I might as well get the fancy colored pipes like I see so much on here, where do you guys get the reef safe pvc that’s colored?

Preferably I would like to keep it hard plumbed, soft plumbing looks like amateur hour imo.

Thank you so much to anyone who takes the time to help me out

Is it all glued in?
I switched mine over without a hitch but it was not glued in. I just gated 1 drain and lowered it. The other I raised it up. Then ran a new line over the top.

 

[Hemmdog]

Is it all glued in?
I switched mine over without a hitch but it was not glued in. I just gated 1 drain and lowered it. The other I raised it up. Then ran a new line over the top.

Yea it is glued in not to the bulkhead on the bottom of the tank, but the pipes are sealed together if that’s what you mean.

 

[jsvand5]

Yea it is glued in not to the bulkhead on the bottom of the tank, but the pipes are sealed together if that’s what you mean.

That still won’t be an issue as long as they aren’t glued into the bulkhead. Just pull both pipes cut one and extend one. I like to make the primary drain far below the emergency. I usually have it about a foot below to avoid ever having to deal with any sucking noises. Really the only thing you will have to glue is the gate valve.

 

[Dburr1014]

I wouldn’t even bother with moving the heater out of your sump. You can probably finish the plumbing in 30 mins or so. Just have to cut the 3/4 pipe short, raise the 1” pipe up a bit, add the gate valve to the 3/4” line and you’re done. Then I’d let the pvc cure for an hour or so. If you don’t already have one, a cheap PVC cutter is a great tool to have. So much better than using a hacksaw. The temp in your display isn’t going to change much at all in that amount of time.

Not sure if you have one now, but I’d definitely put a cover in the overflow box and cover the holes left from the return to prevent snail, hermits, and fish from getting in an possibly blocking a drain

I ran my return over the corner overflow and back out that hole next to the weir. I did also cover that section to keep algae from growing. I made it out of a foam sheet from Walmart.