You might have to double- or triple-up on UV units to hit the right dosage then – can they be run in serial, or just parallel? Maybe reach out to Ice Cap and see if they have a specific recommendation before you unload $$, eh?
FYI, "some UV" is going to be better than "no UV", but where parasites are a target you really need it to be operating at maximum potential if you want it to the job you think it will do.
Most fish can't withstand much of an outbreak (ie being around a sick fish) before succumbing themselves.
Proper strong UV (plus other measures for bio-security and vs
stress) will expand the safe timeframe for them, and in combination with other things like herbal treatments which slow infection rates and micron filtration like Marinland's polishing filters that can remove swarmers directly, and even ozone (with some limits) you can eliminate outbreaks entirely.
Obviously, you still have to treat sick fish, but
don't underestimate the value of avoiding an outbreak. Everyone from
Sun Tzu to
Benjamin Franklin has recognized this kind of truism.
Sometimes there is no better option, but at least consider less-risky treatments than copper and formalin for everything. Most folks don't seem to allow for any consideration here, but that seems unwise to me.
Formalin is both dangerous to handle and dangerously easy to do wrong and kill your fish. It is specifically NOT recommended for treating recently stressed fish because it's so harsh!* Old school copper is marginally better to work with. Chelatead copper is popular and easier to use (thus a little safer) than old school copper, but I'm not sure it works as well as old style copper, which itself wasn't even 100% effective. <100% would be OK, but I'm pretty sure most folks think 100% when they engage these treatments...which leads to surprises.
Think: Comprehensive strategy.
Do not think: Miracle cure.
:)
*Check out "Fish Disease: Diagnosis and Treatment" by Ed Noga as a great reference.
Some is available on Preview here.