RO booster not working?

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Irishman

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I use a needle valve on the waste line of the 2nd ro canister. It let's you dial in your flow restriction (which helps with output) unlike the preset restrictors. They cost about $2
I looked on Amazon and only see steel ones, BRS has some for like $50
 

Buckeye Hydro

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There are some plumbing issues that I saw in the pics. Would be best if you gave us a call when you are in front of the system.

Russ
513-312-2343
 

RobW

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I knew there was something missing. The flow restrictor. I know BRS has an old video on converting a 75gpd unit to their 150gpd water saver unit. I watched that to upgrade my rodi.
The flow restrictors are the same for the 75 and the 150 gpd. Since it is just an additional 75 gpd membrane. They use the 550ml restrictors. The 100 gpd membranes use the 800ml restrictors
 

RobW

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Sometimes those 90 connectors on the membranes can be "check valve" style. Could be faulty as well. The setup should be into the sediment first, then carbon block(s), ro membranes plumbed in series for water savings. (Waste line of first membrane into the input of the second membrane then into your di cartridges.
 

RobW

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I use a needle valve on the waste line of the 2nd ro canister. It let's you dial in your flow restriction (which helps with output) unlike the preset restrictors. They cost about $2
I like that idea.
 

slewrock1

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I like that idea.
Plus, flushing your RO membranes is super easy with the needle valve as all you need to do is open it up all the way to flush em.
 

Buckeye Hydro

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Not a fan of plumbing the membranes in series in these little residential scale systems with hard feedwater. It's a mis-application of a common practice with commercial systems.
 

slewrock1

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Why do you need a booster pump if you house water pressure is 90 psi?
It depends on how many stages your filtration system is and how dirty your source water is.
 

Buckeye Hydro

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Sometimes those 90 connectors on the membranes can be "check valve" style. Could be faulty as well. The setup should be into the sediment first, then carbon block(s), ro membranes plumbed in series for water savings. (Waste line of first membrane into the input of the second membrane then into your di cartridges.
To have the ASOV work, you must have check valves on the permeate lines coming out of each membrane.
 

slewrock1

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Not a fan of plumbing the membranes in series in these little residential scale systems with hard feedwater. It's a mis-application of a common practice with commercial systems.
What's the alternative?
 

Buckeye Hydro

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Plus, flushing your RO membranes is super easy with the needle valve as all you need to do is open it up all the way to flush em.
Hmm. The challenge with needle valve restrictors is that it is a pain to dial in the correct permeate to concentrate ratio in the absence of flow gauges (which none of these little systems have). Every time you open a needle valve to flush, then you'd need to spend the time to dial it back in. Not practical. Better to use a ball valve bypass and open it to flush.

Russ
 

Buckeye Hydro

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The flow restrictors are the same for the 75 and the 150 gpd. Since it is just an additional 75 gpd membrane. They use the 550ml restrictors. The 100 gpd membranes use the 800ml restrictors
Again... one of the reasons I'm not a fan. This is not how any of this is supposed to work!
 

KStatefan

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It depends on how many stages your filtration system is and how dirty your source water is.
If you have that much pressure drop across your prefilters most likely you are not going to get enough flow to the booster pump.
 
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There are some plumbing issues that I saw in the pics. Would be best if you gave us a call when you are in front of the system.

Russ
513-312-2343
I will give you a call around 1230 central time, if that works for you.

Why do you need a booster pump if you house water pressure is 90 psi?
When I tested my system before this post my PSI was way low so I thought it was my house pressure. Come to find out it was not having any flow restrictors plumbed in so PSI wasn't able to build up.

Not a fan of plumbing the membranes in series in these little residential scale systems with hard feedwater. It's a mis-application of a common practice with commercial systems.
What do you recommend then for using two membranes? Or would it be better just to have one?

Again... one of the reasons I'm not a fan. This is not how any of this is supposed to work!
What do you mean by that this is not how any of this supposed to work? The way we use our RO systems?
 

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