RO booster not working?

Discussion in 'General Equipment, Hardware, Filtration' started by Irishman, May 15, 2019.

  1. Irishman

    Irishman Active Member R2R Supporter

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    78842DCD-FA0F-4884-A5DF-B8D7D282DBFC.jpeg 414B4752-6053-4574-B081-F29E65B7E051.jpeg 89FD86F5-A31C-4758-80E7-FC7CEB74DCBF.jpeg 022AF08C-21E7-472E-98E6-272B8B49198F.jpeg My RO booster pump arrived and I installed it today. Plugged it in turned on the water and I’m barely getting 20 PSI. My system is rated for 200 GPD.

    I thought it could be my water source so I went from the washer connect to garden hose connect, that didn’t work. I moved my booster pump to before the membrane, that also didn’t work.

    Did I just get a defective booster pump? I have attached pics of my layout, just in case I have anything connected wrong.
     
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  2. ca1ore

    ca1ore Valuable Member R2R Supporter CTARS Member R2R Excellence Award R2R TV Featured Reef Tank 365 Article Contributor Build Thread Contributor

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    Booster pump should be between the mechanical/carbon filters and the RO membrane. Also quite sensitive to draw line resistance. When I added one, I had to replace the feed saddle valve to get it to work properly.
     
  3. Irishman

    Irishman Active Member R2R Supporter

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    I don’t have a saddle valve installed. Using the garden hose to 1/4” adapter. Also I did have it connected after the main filtration before the membrane and still no change.
     
  4. dantimdad

    dantimdad Valuable Member R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award R2R Secret Santa Hospitality Award Build Thread Contributor North Alabama Reef Club

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    Where is your booster?

    I don't see it in any of the photos
     
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  5. redfishbluefish

    redfishbluefish Stay Positive, Stay Productive Staff Member Team R2R R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Article Contributor Build Thread Contributor NJRC Member

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    Is this a brand new RO unit? I say that because this picture here:

    [​IMG]

    Show what I believe is your first filter...in the clear canister...which is a nice new white sediment filter. And it also appears that the air hasn't been bled out of that canister. The raw water line needs to be connected to that one connector that currently has no line connected to it. The red line, right next to this feed line, and going into your lower member, is where you need to splice in the booster pump. Again, assuming this is a new unit, I'd let it run for 5 to 10 minutes without the pump being on, so that all the filters have a chance to get wet. I'd also bleed out the air in the canisters.
     
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  6. Irishman

    Irishman Active Member R2R Supporter

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    I disconnected it for now. After these main stages I have the DI stage

    All the filters are new, including the membranes
     
  7. Irishman

    Irishman Active Member R2R Supporter

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    How would i bleed out the air in the canister m?
     
  8. redfishbluefish

    redfishbluefish Stay Positive, Stay Productive Staff Member Team R2R R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Article Contributor Build Thread Contributor NJRC Member

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    I apologize for asking, but I've seen it done before....were the membranes put in the right way (and not backwards)? Without the booster pump hooked up, what kind of flow were you getting and what was your ratio of good to waste water?
     
  9. JoshH

    JoshH Swimming in the deep end... R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Partner Member 2019 R2R Secret Santa Build Thread Contributor

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    I'd also like to add another question to the mix, did you rinse your Carbon block/blocks before you ran water through the whole system?
     
  10. redfishbluefish

    redfishbluefish Stay Positive, Stay Productive Staff Member Team R2R R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Article Contributor Build Thread Contributor NJRC Member

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    With the water on, and now using your canister wrench, start to unscrew the canister, just enough to break the seal with the O-ring. This will allow the air to escape. The clear canister, you'll see the water climbing up the canister....no problem. With the white ones, have a small towel handy and as soon as you see water seeping out the top of the canister, tighten it back up.
     
  11. Irishman

    Irishman Active Member R2R Supporter

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    The membranes are put in the right way I double checked that. With out the booster pump I’m looking at 20 PSI before membrane. As far as ratio I don’t know that. Just moved to a different different state and am now hooking everything up the first time in this state. I bought the booster pump because when I had it hooked up I was still only ready 20 PSI before both membranes.

    F23FC9AB-81D0-4A67-BE98-DC63B62E16C8.jpeg 89163749-DFC0-4AE8-830A-A0729C8FBA67.jpeg

    I did not rinse it off before the whole system. Since everything was brand new I was going to run it all for one hour before I kept the RODI water
     
  12. redfishbluefish

    redfishbluefish Stay Positive, Stay Productive Staff Member Team R2R R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Article Contributor Build Thread Contributor NJRC Member

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    I'm not seeing the DI canister. Might I assume it's on the other side of the wall?
     
  13. redfishbluefish

    redfishbluefish Stay Positive, Stay Productive Staff Member Team R2R R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Article Contributor Build Thread Contributor NJRC Member

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    Let's see if we can get a pro looking at this one....Russ, from @Buckeye Hydro
     
  14. Irishman

    Irishman Active Member R2R Supporter

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    No next to it
     
  15. JoshH

    JoshH Swimming in the deep end... R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Partner Member 2019 R2R Secret Santa Build Thread Contributor

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    Always Rinse carbon filters prior to running water through the whole system. Not doing so can prematurely clog the membranes and seriously decrease the life of your membranes. But I don't feel this is your issue with the booster pump. Have you tried turning it all the way up? It might be on its lowest flow setting...

    I'm guessing things were just installed wrong as typically the clear housing is used for the DI stage and the other two for prefilters...
     
  16. Irishman

    Irishman Active Member R2R Supporter

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    The clear housing is to keep an eye on the sediment filter in combine with the TDS meter. This is my DI housing, which isn’t hooked up because I can’t get enough pressure to go through my Membrane to make it to the DI stages.
    0D984000-6D97-4E66-9308-BEB13143305D.jpeg

    And from what I have read you can’t increase the flow of booster pumps on decrease
     
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  17. JoshH

    JoshH Swimming in the deep end... R2R Supporter R2R Excellence Award Partner Member 2019 R2R Secret Santa Build Thread Contributor

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    Most Booster pumps are adjustable to tune the output PSI. And my apologies about the wrong installment of the filters, typically on a 4 stage systems the solid white housings are used for the sediment and carbon stages and the clear for the DI. I was unaware of your separate additional DI housings. Just went by what was in the pictures.
     
    Last edited: May 15, 2019
  18. ryeguyy84

    ryeguyy84 Active Member

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    Hows the water pressure in your house? I'm no expert but 20psi sounds like your shower would be pretty weak. Just wondering if it's a connection issue
     
  19. Opus

    Opus Valuable Member

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    Are you on city water? If so, you probably can increase the water pressure coming into your house yourself. There are youtube videos showing how to do it. I agree with other posters, 20 is very low. I'm at 50 and hate taking a shower because of lack of pressure.

    Have you tried by passing the ASOV to make sure it isn't the problem?
     
  20. Irishman

    Irishman Active Member R2R Supporter

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    Had to step away from the issue for now. When I get home I’ll try just doing one membrane and see what the pressure is like and also take off the ASOV
     
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