Roast my reefer

TX_REEF

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Hi friends, I'm looking for any and all constructive feedback on my system as it stands.

My main concerns that I need your advice on:
  • Bubbletip anemone (bottom mid-left) sometimes looks semi-happy, sometimes deflated, changing between the two states multiple times a day. 100 PAR and decent amount of indirect flow. refer to PAR map and video for flow
  • Hammer coral (mid right of tank) doesn't open all the way 85 PAR, moderate flow
  • GSP (bottom left of tank) doesn't often open all the way
  • Some dinos
  • know I need to get Phosphate and Nitrate up. Advice for sustainable safe way to do so? I feed a pretty decent sized pinch of flake food 3x a day, hikari marine pellets 1x a day, hikari frozen brine 2-3x a week
  • How do you think my flow and lighting is for this mixed reef? check out PAR map and flow video please
Parameters:
  • Temp: 78
  • Phosphate: 0ppm (Hannah checker) I know I need to get this up. Advice for sustainable safe way to do so?
  • Nitrate:1ppm (redsea liquid test kit)I know I need to get this up. Advice for sustainable safe way to do so?
  • Magnesium: 1500ppm (redsea liquid titration kit)
  • Sg: 1.025 (optical refractometer)

Lighting:
  • Kessil ap9x
  • ophek OR3 blue bar
  • 11:30-22:30, 30 minute ramp up and down
  • PAR map below, tested with Apogee meter
1706027160958.png


Flow:
  • 2x MP40, 30% reef crest during day 15% lagoon at night with 2x short nutrient export bursts a day
  • 2x jebao SCP70 in long pulse master/slave mode
  • Reef Octopus Varios 4 running at 50%-60% (500-600 GPH at pump, ~5 feet head pressure


Filtration:
  • Reefmat 500
  • Reef Octopus 150 classic skimmer
  • Icecap small algae turf scrubber
  • activated carbon
 
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randomfishdude

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Alright then...
If that dabble tip ain't moving it ether happy or dead you should know that by now and get that dang hammer in some lower flow!
So here's what you're going to do for thoes dinos. Don't be stupid and waste money on some magical bottle that tells you it will solve all your problems. Just do what my stupid self did and dump a crap load of food in. You will get alge but green it better than do do brown.
Also turn that ding darn skimmer off.

Everything else looks good :)
I didn't wanna be too mean.
 
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TX_REEF

TX_REEF

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Alright then...
If that dabble tip ain't moving it ether happy or dead you should know that by now and get that dang hammer in some lower flow!
So here's what you're going to do for thoes dinos. Don't be stupid and waste money on some magical bottle that tells you it will solve all your problems. Just do what my stupid self did and dump a crap load of food in. You will get alge but green it better than do do brown.
Also turn that ding darn skimmer off.

Everything else looks good :)
I didn't wanna be too mean.
All appreciated!! The bubbletip looks happy about 50% of the time and deflated about 50% of the time, so I can't quite tell what his problem is, unless its nitrate and phosphate too low. Definitely not dead...
 

randomfishdude

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All appreciated!! The bubbletip looks happy about 50% of the time and deflated about 50% of the time, so I can't quite tell what his problem is, unless its nitrate and phosphate too low. Definitely not dead...
It's a anenome who knows what it's thinking
 

EgotisticObeseChihuahua

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All appreciated!! The bubbletip looks happy about 50% of the time and deflated about 50% of the time, so I can't quite tell what his problem is, unless its nitrate and phosphate too low. Definitely not dead...
Is the Bubble tip getting enough light? They need around 200-300 Par. Though I would assume it would move itself if it wasn't happy.
 
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TX_REEF

TX_REEF

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Is the Bubble tip getting enough light? They need around 200-300 Par. Though I would assume it would move itself if it wasn't happy.
That's part of why I added the Orphek bar, I'm assuming it's getting enough light because it ain't moving and I've learned my lesson over the years not to rip nems off rocks and move them...
 

Katrina71

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Are you only feeding frozen?
 

Katrina71

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I feed a pretty decent sized pinch of flake food (Ocean Nutrition formulas 1 and 2) 3x a day, hikari marine pellets 1x a day, hikari frozen brine 2-3x a week
Coral food definitely jacks our nitrates up. So does pellets, but not as much.
 
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TX_REEF

TX_REEF

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Coral food definitely jacks our nitrates up. So does pellets, but not as much.
Maybe I have to look into "coral food", I read a bunch of posts where people said reef roids etc. caused phosphate spikes, but I guess that's kind of what I need. Any guidance for the best options for coral food and how to use it properly?
 

Katrina71

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Maybe I have to look into "coral food", I read a bunch of posts where people said reef roids etc. caused phosphate spikes, but I guess that's kind of what I need. Any guidance for the best options for coral food and how to use it properly?
I may be doing it wrong, but I take a little plastic cup with with some tank water and mix in coral food. I cut the tip off of a long pipette and feed with it. (The tip kept getting clogged)
 

Dburr1014

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Maybe I have to look into "coral food", I read a bunch of posts where people said reef roids etc. caused phosphate spikes, but I guess that's kind of what I need. Any guidance for the best options for coral food and how to use it properly?
I would do some reef roids. Maybe start with just a few pellets and mash them up with tank water and spot feed. Start there before coral or fish food.

0 no3 and some po4 is better than;
0 po4 and some no3.
 

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