RoDI and chloramine

[314reefer]

So if I have a RoDI which doesn’t filter chloramine can I use water conditioner to remove? Or get a chloramine I filter?

 

[RocketEngineer]

The carbon block filter before the RO membrane is there specifically to remove chloramines as chloramines can damage the membrane. If you know you have chloramines in your water supply, you might want to consider a filter with two carbon blocks.

 

[KStatefan]

I would get good carbon blocks. I like to run a 1 micron in front of a 0.5 micron block. My water supply is currently not using clorimines but that could change any time without notice. I change the first carbon every 2000 gallons.

 

[314reefer]

The carbon block filter before the RO membrane is there specifically to remove chloramines as chloramines can damage the membrane. If you know you have chloramines in your water supply, you might want to consider a filter with two carbon blocks.

So I don’t need a special chloramine cartridge?

 

[rtparty]

What Rocket said. Carbon blocks remove chloramines and you definitely need 2 of them. Replace them regularly

 

[314reefer]

Okay I’m not sure if we have it but I’m sure I do as I live in st.louis city

 

[rtparty]

Okay I’m not sure if we have it but I’m sure I do as I live in st.louis city

Your local water company should have a water report and it will tell you

 

[RocketEngineer]

Call BRS. Those folks have some of the nastiest water to clean up for use in a reef. They can point you in the right direction

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

In the tests I had a bunch of reefers do, most ro/di removed chloramine. Don’t assume any given ro/di does not unless you measure the effluent to see. Any cheap chlorine kit will serve.

Chloramine and the Reef Aquarium - Reefkeeping.com


Lessons Learned and Suggestions:

1.​	Most RO/DI systems seem capable of removing chloramine adequately for aquarists.
2.​	The carbon cartridge may become less useful over time, and it is possible that the chloramine removal effectiveness of a system may be lost before the DI appears to need changing.
3.​	Cheap sediment cartridges may expose the carbon cartridge to unnecessary fouling, which may permit chloramine to pass through the system. Cartridges should be replaced as soon as the pressure drops significantly, even if RO/DI water is still being produced at a reasonable rate or purity as measured by total dissolved solids.
4.​	Testing for chlorine and chloramine is easy, so any concern is easily reconciled.
5.​	One Hach kit provides several dozen test results. Our local Boston Club bought some kits and had a "water testing day." The kits can also become part of the "library" of a local club for aquarists to use once in a while to see if their systems are functioning. That way, the cost to each aquarist is minimal.

 

[Opus]

Okay I’m not sure if we have it but I’m sure I do as I live in st.louis city

Their water report says they do. You can go with a chloramine specific cartridge but I would do as others state and just go with 2 carbon blocks. Just depends on how paranoid you are. Either setup is going to be 2 cartridges. Even if you do have them and it gets past the carbon block, I believe the DI will take care of it. If not, a few drops of Prime will do the job.