RODI system help please!!

[AustinW78]

Hello everyone I currently am running an ispring five stage RODI system for my water. It is a model RCC1DP. I have noticed the output of clean water is always higher than the output of Wastewater. I have read everywhere that that is supposed to be the other way around for most RODI systems? Does anybody have any experience with these specific filtration systems and do you know whether or not this is normal? Thank you in advance!

 

[mann1139]

Normal RO membranes will output 4-5x the wastewater as the clean.

On the membrane itself, the connection clean water output should be more towards the center of the cylinder and the wastewater would be more towards the outside.

If you have a TDS meter, you can also check the TDS of each output. Clean would be lower than input, and waste slightly higher.

One of those three ways should be able to tell you if something is hooked up wrong.

 

[Buckeye Hydro Verified Sponsor]

"Normal RO membranes will output 4-5x the wastewater as the clean."

This is correct - I'd say 3 to 5 times more concentrate (aka waste water) than permeate (RO water).
The RO water comes out of the center stem of the membrane, so it comes out of the more central port on the RO membrane housing.

Russ

 

[Buckeye Hydro Verified Sponsor]

Your system is less than optimally configured for use in this hobby:

• Your middle prefilter is GAC. If you want/need two prefilter carbon stages, you'd be better off with a carbon block rather than GAC. If you have chloramines in your tapwater, use a Chloraguard rather than the GAC.
• The pump on your system does not need a low pressure switch, and yet they put one on your system.
• Your DI stage should be vertical, with bottom up flow.
• When it comes time to replace your RO membrane, consider using a Filmtec 75 gpd, rather than the 150 gpd you currently have. Cleaner RO water means longer DI stage life. If you make this change you'll likely want a different flow restrictor as well.
• Consider adding a three-probe inline TDS meter with a probe on the 1) feedwater, 2) RO water, and 3) DI water.
• Your feed water solenoid valve would be better placed prior to the entire system, rather than having it after the prefilters.

Russ

 

[AustinW78]

I do have a PPM meter and all of the water that I test comes back at zero PPM which is why I have been so confused.
Does anyone have a better RODI system they can advise I purchase? Maybe switch to a Bulk Reef 5 stage 75GPD??

 

[AustinW78]

Normal RO membranes will output 4-5x the wastewater as the clean.

On the membrane itself, the connection clean water output should be more towards the center of the cylinder and the wastewater would be more towards the outside.

If you have a TDS meter, you can also check the TDS of each output. Clean would be lower than input, and waste slightly higher.

One of those three ways should be able to tell you if something is hooked up wrong.

See the water that comes from it reads at 0 ppm!! I have been so confused because that.

 

[mfinn]

I do have a PPM meter and all of the water that I test comes back at zero PPM which is why I have been so confused.
Does anyone have a better RODI system they can advise I purchase? Maybe switch to a Bulk Reef 5 stage 75GPD??

You are talking with a water specialist sponsor here on R2R. Buckeye Hydro. If he can't get you fixed up, nobody can.

 

[Privateye]

I do have a PPM meter and all of the water that I test comes back at zero PPM which is why I have been so confused.
Does anyone have a better RODI system they can advise I purchase? Maybe switch to a Bulk Reef 5 stage 75GPD??

If it's saying that the waste line TDS is 0, then there is likely something wrong with your meter. Which meter is it? I bought a $2 one online a few years ago and it shows a major difference. I may not trust that 0 is actually 0, but when my source water is reading 170 ppm and my RO/DI reads 0, I feel it's close enough.

I'd get a new TDS meter, personally. The only other explanation for zeros on both lines would be that the source water is already RO filtered, but you'd know if that was the case!

 

[Buckeye Hydro Verified Sponsor]

I do have a PPM meter and all of the water that I test comes back at zero PPM which is why I have been so confused.
Does anyone have a better RODI system they can advise I purchase? Maybe switch to a Bulk Reef 5 stage 75GPD??

When you say "all of the water" do you mean all of the DI water? Or are you saying literally that ANY water you test reads 0 ppm?

Is this a handheld meter or an inline meter?

 

[AustinW78]

I do have a PPM meter and all of the water that I test comes back at zero PPM which is why I have been so confused.
Does anyone have a better RODI system they can advise I purchase? Maybe switch to a Bulk Reef 5 stage 75GPD??

If it's saying that the waste line TDS is 0, then there is likely something wrong with your meter. Which meter is it? I bought a $2 one online a few years ago and it shows a major difference. I may not trust that 0 is actually 0, but when my source water is reading 170 ppm and my RO/DI reads 0, I feel it's close enough.

I'd get a new TDS meter, personally. The only other explanation for zeros on both lines would be that the source water is already RO filtered, but you'd know if that was the case!

It shows zero on the clean water line only. The waste water comes out higher ppm. I mispoke there. The only issue I have is water ratio output. It puts out almost double clean water to waste water. I use a handheld ppm reader currently.

 

[AustinW78]

I do have a PPM meter and all of the water that I test comes back at zero PPM which is why I have been so confused.
Does anyone have a better RODI system they can advise I purchase? Maybe switch to a Bulk Reef 5 stage 75GPD??

When you say "all of the water" do you mean all of the DI water? Or are you saying literally that ANY water you test reads 0 ppm?

Is this a handheld meter or an inline meter?

No I apologize I mean the CLEAN water tests at zero. The waste is higher and so is my tap water. I have a hand held meter currently.

 

[Buckeye Hydro Verified Sponsor]

Take a look at your flow restrictor. If it is a barrel type, it will have a number stamped on the side. If it's a capillary tube type, what color is it?

 

[AustinW78]

Take a look at your flow restrictor. If it is a barrel type, it will have a number stamped on the side. If it's a capillary tube type, what color is it?

It is black and attaches to the waste line

 

[Buckeye Hydro Verified Sponsor]

Is it a capillary tube? Need to identify the ml/min it is rated for. If it is a black bodied capillary tube you have the wrong flow restrictor for a 150 gpd membrane. Post a picture of it

 

[AustinW78]

Is it a capillary tube? Need to identify the ml/min it is rated for. If it is a black bodied capillary tube you have the wrong flow restrictor for a 150 gpd membrane. Post a picture of it

It is a black capillary system for the restrictor. I will have to take photos of it tomorrow. It is installed in my office as my well water is poor quality. Why the company would send one that is wrong makes no sense to me. Would you suggest switching to a different RODI system? I would rather just pay the 300 dollars to get a better one if this one is not recommend. If so what would you suggest? I have been looking at the Bulk Reef 5 stage 75GPD which has the double carbon you were speaking of.