RODI system questions

[SaltWaterTank_Noob]

Hello all, so I am needing to install a RODI system, based on conversations with members on here, I'm stuck between 2 options (my display tank is only 55gallons and sump is only 20gallons) the Aqautic Life RODI buddie 4 stage 50GPD (which ive heard is good but the filters are supposedly expensive when having to replace but if you can link the cost of the filters on their own because the ones im finding are like $10 so i think its the wrong ones) or the BRS 4 stage 75GPD value RODI system (also would like to see how much the filters are to replace on this system)?
I have attached a picture of my water readings, I'm unsure if this means that it's chlorine and chlormine free or if it uses chlorine to free the water of contaminants. I've been told that this matters and that might steer me toward different RODI filter options based on this info?
I was also seeing in these forums of something called a TDI tester to add into the lines? Very curious as to what that is for and if needed on these types of systems I might get. Thank you for all the help in advance!

 

[Freenow54]

I cannot remeber if I posted my zero waste system by Watts here it conects to the hot water heater 10 feet away or you could probably use an expansion tank. You have to add your own DI filter, and resin off Amazon in my case. Filters available as well A TDI meter cost is less than $ 10 and stands for Total Dissolve

d Solids, and lets you know by its number when Its time to change your filters. Also is a manufacturers recommendation

 

[SaltWaterTank_Noob]

I cannot remeber if I posted my zero waste system by Watts here it conects to the hot water heater 10 feet away or you could probably use an expansion tank. You have to add your own DI filter, and resin off Amazon in my case. Filters available as well A TDI meter cost is less than $ 10 and stands for Total Dissolve

d Solids, and lets you know by its number when Its time to change your filters. Also is a manufacturers recommendation

I have a electric water heaters, would that work the same? I was just going to attach it to under my sink but there's a lot more room underneath my electric water heater and that's way closer to my tank than my sink!

 

[Freenow54]

I have a electric water heaters, would that work the same? I was just going to attach it to under my sink but there's a lot more room underneath my electric water heater and that's way closer to my tank than my sink!

Yes you just need a tank. Caution though you cant have any check valve ( one way ) in the way the booster pump forces the water back into your water system. I use a 1/4 hp submersible pump in the blue containers to pump it to my tanks, and also to mix salt. You can hook the included expansion tank up under you sink for drinking water. thre are 2 lines. Look it up on goggle " Watts zero waste RO system. I just put a pair of vice grips on the one line to use mine.

 

[SaltWaterTank_Noob]

Yes you just need a tank. Caution though you cant have any check valve ( one way ) in the way the booster pump forces the water back into your water system. I use a 1/4 hp submersible pump in the blue containers to pump it to my tanks, and also to mix salt. You can hook the included expansion tank up under you sink for drinking water. thre are 2 lines. Look it up on goggle " Watts zero waste RO system. I just put a pair of vice grips on the one line to use mine.

Wait, im confused now. What do you mean a booster pump??? Why would I need a pump for a RODI system? I don't plan on pumping the RODI water directly to my tank or a tank for an ATO system. I just plan on filling a jug up and then dumping it into my tank by hand.

 

[Snoopy 67]

Booster pumps are needed when your water pressure going into the RO is low.
The more pressure the better they work . Same with water temps the warmer the better your production is. BUT, never use hot water, it will kill your membrane.

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

I cannot remeber if I posted my zero waste system by Watts here it conects to the hot water heater 10 feet away or you could probably use an expansion tank. You have to add your own DI filter, and resin off Amazon in my case. Filters available as well A TDI meter cost is less than $ 10 and stands for Total Dissolve

d Solids, and lets you know by its number when Its time to change your filters. Also is a manufacturers recommendation

Help me understand this. You're pumping waste water from your membrane into your hot water heater?

If so, please expand on concerns about adding the extra minerals into an already mineral rich environment. Aren't you concerned with shortening the life of your hotwater heater? Not to mention the concentration of rejected RO being piped into the hotwater for the entire house? Thus shortening the life of the seals and valves on the hotwater side?

I personally couldn't see the cost savings coming close to paying for the more extensive services required with harder water lines on the hot side.

For me an efficient membrane with good rejection rate is a better alternative. Plus it removes complications in the long term.

 

[SaltWaterTank_Noob]

Booster pumps are needed when your water pressure going into the RO is low.
The more pressure the better they work . Same with water temps the warmer the better your production is. BUT, never use hot water, it will kill your membrane.

How do you know what pressure (PSI) is coming out into the RODI system??? Is that something people test prior to getting a RODI system? I thought they just connected it to the water line and that was it.

 

[EricR]

How do you know what pressure (PSI) is coming out into the RODI system??? Is that something people test prior to getting a RODI system? I thought they just connected it to the water line and that was it.

Many RODI systems come with a pressure gauge. (My BRS 6 stage has one).
If not, you could just add one for around $20 (or even less).

*I ran my RODI system at about 50 PSI (house water pressure) for about a year before adding a booster pump -- worth it but not an absolute necessity at that pressure

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I would also question whether these zero waste systems are legal in all places. In our town the code requires no connection where water that comes out of the system (and into, say, a possibly contaminated user device like an RO/DI) can get back into the system to possibly be drunk by someone. At least that is what our plumber told me in relation to a different scenario.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

How do you know what pressure (PSI) is coming out into the RODI system??? Is that something people test prior to getting a RODI system? I thought they just connected it to the water line and that was it.

Most people do not need booster pumps. A few with low incoming water pressure do.

 

[SaltWaterTank_Noob]

Many RODI systems come with a pressure gauge. (My BRS 6 stage has one).
If not, you could just add one for around $20 (or even less).

*I ran my RODI system at about 50 PSI (house water pressure) for about a year before adding a booster pump -- worth it but not an absolute necessity at that pressure

Oh ok then, so first thing I need to do is figure out what my pressure is at? Would my electric water heater tell me this or do i have to get a gauge for that?

 

[SaltWaterTank_Noob]

I would also question whether these zero waste systems are legal in all places. In our town the code requires no connection where water that comes out of the system (and into, say, a possibly contaminated user device like an RO/DI) can get back into the system to possibly be drunk by someone. At least that is what our plumber told me in relation to a different scenario.

Oh geez, so let's just keep it safe and connect it under the sink vs onto my electric tankless water heater? Lol

 

[SaltWaterTank_Noob]

Most people do not need booster pumps. A few with low incoming water pressure do.

Yeah, exactly, I have to figure out how to find out what psi my house pressure is at

 

[TastesLikeChicken]

The pressure out of my faucet it 50. With my booster pump it’s 90

 

[TastesLikeChicken]

Yeah, exactly, I have to figure out how to find out what psi my house pressure is at

If your RODI has a gauge it will tell you. Almost all systems have gauges.

 

[EricR]

Yeah, exactly, I have to figure out how to find out what psi my house pressure is at

Yeah,,, you need a gauge. I think the BRS 4 stage you're looking at probably doesn't have one but you could add one easily.
Highly unlikely there's any pressure gauge on any of your existing household items (like water heater that you asked about).
Normally, in the city anyway, pressure from the utility is higher and there's a restrictor on the incoming line to your house to lower the pressure. (You could find that and see if there's an inspection tag noting the pressure it was set at and assume it's likely still about right).

Reality -- if you're going full-on low budget,,, just get the RODI system running and see how it works out,,, then decide if you care enough to add a pressure gauge and decide if a booster pump is worth it to you.

 

[SaltWaterTank_Noob]

The pressure out of my faucet it 50. With my booster pump it’s 90

Geez, 90psi seems like a lot.

 

[SaltWaterTank_Noob]

If your RODI has a gauge it will tell you. Almost all systems have gauges.

It doesn't seem like the RODI system i plan on getting has one. Its the BRS 4 stage 75GPD value one.

 

[TastesLikeChicken]

Geez, 90psi seems like a lot.

They recommend keeping it below 80 but I can’t resist.