RODI system questions

[Freenow54]

From their website the waste water is plumbed to the hot water side.

An engineer designed the Tacoma Narrows bridge that only lasted a few months.

To each his own A different group designed rocket ships, All German **** from WW2 and went to the moon if you are one of the people who believe that. I do since I watched it on TV so must be true.

 

[Adamantium]

No fresh water comes to the RO system some of it goes through the membrane part, the rest is diverted to the booster pump where it is forced back into the water heater. There is no waste line

Do you understand my concern, though? If you imagine the water supply as a sterile system (I realize it's not, but it's a similar concept in that you want as little bacteria as possible), pushing water back into the supply after coming out of the supply seems like it could result in problems.

Like, what if you don't use the system for a while and mold develops in a part that feeds back into the supply? Just another example.

 

[Adamantium]

LOL never mind, I just saw your new comment about the moon landing. Take care.

 

[Freenow54]

Do you understand my concern, though? If you imagine the water supply as a sterile system (I realize it's not, but it's a similar concept in that you want as little bacteria as possible), pushing water back into the supply after coming out of the supply seems like it could result in problems.

Like, what if you don't use the system for a while and mold develops in a part that feeds back into the supply? Just another example.

I really don't think there is a problem that way. Also there is chlorine or whatever your supplier uses in the water it is not removed ie no bacteria or mold issues. Also I don't know but don't think mold would grow in that manner

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I'm looking into it, and I still don't think I understand. Backflowing into the main water supply seems... ill advised. What if you got literal feces inside your return line somehow (just the most extreme example I can think of)? Would it be able to get into the water supply?

It is clearly ill advised.

 

[KStatefan]

I really don't think there is a problem that way. Also there is chlorine or whatever your supplier uses in the water it is not removed ie no bacteria or mold issues. Also I don't know but don't think mold would grow in that manner

The chlorine would have been removed by the carbon filter.

 

[Freenow54]

I do not live in the city though so I do kind of want to check but I could've swore when I had those electric water heaters installed, they had said 60psi, from what I recall because they were saying something about recommending not going higher because pipes could start bursting.
How would I know though if I NEED a pressure gauge and booster pump??

The restrictor you are talking about does not reduce pressure by design anyway. It is called a backflow preventor it stops any containments from your home entering the town water supply. Why would you need a pressure gauge?

 

[Freenow54]

It is clearly ill advised.

Randy that cannot happen

 

[SaltWaterTank_Noob]

You likely don't NEED either,,, just get going and see how it works out.
*there are benefits to a booster pump though, including (but not limited to) avoiding pressure drops if/when people are showering while you're running your RODI

Are you in a residential community,,, running off of a municipal water supply?
If so, I think you would still likely have a household restrictor/regulator.
In California in a 25+ year old home, mine is set (per inspection tag) at 50 PSI,,, and my BRS RODI pressure gauge would also show max of 50 PSI (with no other major water use going on).

P.S. I now run a booster at 75 PSI

Ahh yes, my water does drop off like that when people shower or flush the toilet etc at the same time but I wouldn't be filling up for that long and I would be sure to do it when no one is showering.
I am in a community out in the country. I have both well water and connected to main line water (unsure if it's considered city cause the nearest city is like 40 minutes away).
Yes I do for sure because I know i asked them to turn the pressure up and that's when they told me 60psi was the max, I'm out in TX.

 

[Freenow54]

The chlorine would have been removed by the carbon filter.

The water that goes back into the water supply does NOT NOT NOT go thorough the membranes that does not make any sense. I am done see you. Hope you have fun

 

[SaltWaterTank_Noob]

BRS is having a sale on the 4 stage 75 gallon/day system. The one with the gauge and TDS meter is the same price as the one without ($199). Just buy it and be done with it and start playing with your new toys.

Oooooo ill look into it!

 

[Freenow54]

Ahh yes, my water does drop off like that when people shower or flush the toilet etc at the same time but I wouldn't be filling up for that long and I would be sure to do it when no one is showering.
I am in a community out in the country. I have both well water and connected to main line water (unsure if it's considered city cause the nearest city is like 40 minutes away).
Yes I do for sure because I know i asked them to turn the pressure up and that's when they told me 60psi was the max, I'm out in TX.

Does not lower pressure it will equal out It does however make the water cooler since it is cold water going back into the hot water heater

 

[Freenow54]

Ahh yes, my water does drop off like that when people shower or flush the toilet etc at the same time but I wouldn't be filling up for that long and I would be sure to do it when no one is showering.
I am in a community out in the country. I have both well water and connected to main line water (unsure if it's considered city cause the nearest city is like 40 minutes away).
Yes I do for sure because I know i asked them to turn the pressure up and that's when they told me 60psi was the max, I'm out in TX.

Also the amount of water that comes out of the or any RO system is a drip will not lower pressure

 

[SaltWaterTank_Noob]

BRS is having a sale on the 4 stage 75 gallon/day system. The one with the gauge and TDS meter is the same price as the one without ($199). Just buy it and be done with it and start playing with your new toys.

Looks like it's out of stock

 

[KStatefan]

The water that goes back into the water supply does NOT NOT NOT go thorough the membranes that does not make any sense. I am done see you. Hope you have fun

You asked people to research and I did the below is the diagram from the Watts website. The blue line is the flow from the cold water supply back to the hot.

 

[SaltWaterTank_Noob]

You don't NEED either right off the bat. Don't get caught up in the weeds.

Just get an RODI system that seems good to you. Hook it up per the instructions to a COLD water supply. There are lots of ways to do this, it will depend on your situation. (It is the easiest thing to place it where you make water for the tank, I think. A laundry hook up is easy to hook up to if you have that sort of thing,)

You can always add a booster pump later on IF your water production is too slow. I have the RO Buddie 50 gallon per day, and I make water for a 55, 30, and 15 gallon tank each week. I ran it for a 3 or 4 years without a booster pump. It was OK in the summer, REALLY slow in the cold weather... but it got the job done. Just this winter I put a booster pump on it and what a difference! I still don't have a pressure gauge anyplace. I don't really care what the pressure is. I did add an inline TDS meter a couple years ago. It's nice, bot essential, though.

My point is, you can get going with just the basics, and grow as you learn more. That goes for everything in this hobby. There are basic things you have to do to be successful. But just try to get those down pat, Then you can grow into more complex things.

Oh ok awesome! Do you think it would be fine to connect to my electric tankless water heater or should I just do my sink? It's really only like a 30-50ft difference.

 

[SaltWaterTank_Noob]

Spectrapure is a high end RO/DI manufacturer. :)

Hahaha yes, I just looked them up and it looks exactly like the BRS but almost double the price.

 

[Freenow54]

I have this setup from BRS:

BRS 4 stage Plus: $249

4 Stage Value Plus 75GPD RO/DI System

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www.bulkreefsupply.com

This kit has everything you need including a TDS meter and a flush valve.

Replacement filters: $28.99
average time to replace them is around 6 months. or until your TDS meter is > than 1.

4 Stage RO/DI Replacement Filter Kit

Works with all BRS 4 Stage RO/DI Systems This kit is designed to treat all primary water sources that are treated with chlorine and wells with low amounts of contaminants. This kit will work with all BRS 4 Stage RO/DI Systems and most other RO/DI units on the market today that use industry...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

Membrane filter: $42
average time to replace them is once a year.

75 GPD Reverse Osmosis Membrane - Dow Filmtec

Why does BRS recommend this? DuPont is a leader when it comes to water treatment and filtration. Their 75 GPD membrane has a 99% rejection ratio, and most other membranes cannot make that same claim. Along with meeting NSF/ANSI standards the 75 GPD DuPont (formerly Dow Chemical) membrane is...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

Float Valve: $18.49

Reverse Osmosis Float Valve

Why does BRS recommend this? Float valves are simple to install and can save a lot of water from ending up on the floor. They can be installed in containers as small 1 gallon pails, sumps, and 200 plus gallon commercial storage containers to shut off the flow of water. Even if you do not have a...

www.bulkreefsupply.com

This goes onto the RO container, itll close the valve when the water is full in your container and stops the RO system. its a must have.

Hook it up via your washing machine cold water line. Install the float valve onto a water container of your choice.
This is all you need.

Funny does not mention how much water is wasted. If you look at a system in a store they have to tell you. Some waste 3 gallons and you only get 1 that is treated. Ask brs that

 

[SaltWaterTank_Noob]

Again someone who just spouts off without researching the product. NO WASTE that is why you need a booster pump to force the water back into the water line instead of letting it go down the drain. Making the town water treatment plant work needlessly or waste the water down a storm sewer. Its all about saving everyone money and the environment. No you don't need a gauge. The booster pump comes with the system and doesn't cost a fortune anyway

The booster pump comes with which system?

 

[SaltWaterTank_Noob]

Sorry the booster pump comes with the system. Like I said goggle it and see how it works and decide if you want to pay for water going down the drain or no water going down the drain. The booster pump pumps the water back into your water system.

Ohhhh, honestly, I didn't even know water went down the drain. I thought the RODI system just ran your normal water through the filters and spouts into my bucket that then goes into my tank and that's it. How does water go into the drain?