RODI system questions

[Freenow54]

I think the answer will differ for everyone. I personally find it novel.

I have always liked this saying. I knew I was wrong 10 minutes ago. Now I am just trying to make you mad

 

[Freenow54]

What about now?

I don't think you need a water heater. just a vessel. I would think an expansion tank without a bladder or maybe with would work. I would ask the manufacturer. Don't think it will work in your case on what you have

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I ham a little miffed as to the fact that unless someone responds to my post then I cannot see any other statements.

I have no idea what you are talking about. My post is #103 in this thread. You cannot see all 103?

Do you have some people on ignore?

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

I don't think you need a water heater. just a vessel. I would think an expansion tank without a bladder or maybe with would work. I would ask the manufacturer. Don't think it will work in your case on what you have

I think we are talking at cross purposes. He was asking if he could attach his RO/DI there. He's not trying to force water back into the water system at the moment.

 

[Randy Holmes-Farley]

What about now?

of course you can cut apart any water pipe and attach a tee and a faucet adapter, but there's no place in that photo where a faucet adaptor already exists.

 

[Freenow54]

Your explanation of how a backflow preventor works is correct, however your application of it in the system doesn't offer any protection in this scenario. The primary principle of the backflow works off of pressure differential. To enlarge the main purpose is if city pressure dropped, water in the house ie upper tank toilet water won't siphon back into the water supply. This does very little to prevent a presuized system on both sides to stop backflow. When you're forcing water back into an already pressurized system that volume and extra pressure has to go somewhere, hence my theory of out the pressure relief of the hot water heater or back into the city supply.

...to me, it just doesn't add up.



I don't understand what merit that has with this conversation.

That one thing will and has never happened believe me I looked the t& P set at 150psi has never leaked. No taps or seals have ever leaked. The answer in my case is that I probably don't have a backflow preventor. I also assume a large enough expansion tank would work . There must have been different designs because some new homes had to have expansion tanks added to the water heater due to the expansion of the hot water. I did not need one hence why I bought the system which by the way was not available in Canada. but was installed by a local business. I was in HVAC by the way so saw this often

 

[Freenow54]

I think we are talking at cross purposes. He was asking if he could attach his RO/DI there. He's not trying to force water back into the water system at the moment.

I see So if he takes the existing connection apart should be able to easily replumb to suit assuming he has a drain for the waste water. I hope I got that correct

 

[Freenow54]

I see So if he takes the existing connection apart should be able to easily replumb to suit assuming he has a drain for the waste water. I hope I got that correct

He actually has copper soldered although poorly in the system and could use the compression valve I posted for the purpose.

 

[SaltWaterTank_Noob]

I don't think you need a water heater. just a vessel. I would think an expansion tank without a bladder or maybe with would work. I would ask the manufacturer. Don't think it will work in your case on what you have

Dang it, I guess under the sink it goes and being taken on/off only when I need to use it then. Thank you though!

 

[SaltWaterTank_Noob]

of course you can cut apart any water pipe and attach a tee and a faucet adapter, but there's no place in that photo where a faucet adaptor already exists.

Dang and I'm no solder so I guess that goes out the window lol

 

[Freenow54]

I have no idea what you are talking about. My post is #103 in this thread. You cannot see all 103?

Do you have some people on ignore?

No but I cannot tell when others post sometimes dont know why

Dang and I'm no solder so I guess that goes out the window lol

Like I said compression fittings only need a tubing cutter and two wrenches. Again though I am only taking A system that puts waste water down the drain now. So you need a drain

 

[SaltWaterTank_Noob]

No but I cannot tell when others post sometimes dont know why

Like I said compression fittings only need a tubing cutter and two wrenches. Again though I am only taking A system that puts waste water down the drain now. So you need a drain

Yeah, sounds like too much to do in my case

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

Dang and I'm no solder so I guess that goes out the window lol

If you were to add a T into the copper, you're better off hiring a plumber.

The under sink option is more in the wheelhouse of homeowners. This allows you to tap into the **** off valve of the cold water supply side without messing with the copper.

 

[ScottJ]

Dang it, I guess under the sink it goes and being taken on/off only when I need to use it then. Thank you though!

Do you have a washing machine? It should just have a hose bib for the cold water hose. You can just get a Y adapter with shutoffs;
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Melnor-2-Way-Y-Shut-Off-Metal-Hose-Connector-312S/203136672
The filter will come with the proper adapter to attach to it. Easy! You are only going to make a few gallons at a time. Just run it into a bucket or some kind of water jug. Bonus if your washer drains into a sink, because you want a dtain someplace near.

 

[SaltWaterTank_Noob]

If you were to add a T into the copper, you're better off hiring a plumber.

The under sink option is more in the wheelhouse of homeowners. This allows you to tap into the **** off valve of the cold water supply side without messing with the copper.

Lol yeah, I don't need a big plumbing bill for this haha. the what valve?

 

[SaltWaterTank_Noob]

Do you have a washing machine? It should just have a hose bib for the cold water hose. You can just get a Y adapter with shutoffs;
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Melnor-2-Way-Y-Shut-Off-Metal-Hose-Connector-312S/203136672
The filter will come with the proper adapter to attach to it. Easy! You are only going to make a few gallons at a time. Just run it into a bucket or some kind of water jug. Bonus if your washer drains into a sink, because you want a dtain someplace near.

I do but my washer/dryer are downstairs so I wanted to do this upstairs. A drain for what?

 

[Sisterlimonpot]

what valve?

Something like this.

Amazon.com

a.co

It adds a 1/4" push to connect in line of your cold water supply found under the sink.

You just have to verify that you have a 3/8" connection under there.

 

[SaltWaterTank_Noob]

Something like this.

Amazon.com

a.co

It adds a 1/4" push to connect in line of your cold water supply found under the sink.

You just have to verify that you have a 3/8" connection under there.

Ohhh yeah, for under the sink I have that figured out. I was just thinking for the water heater setup but that's not going to work

 

[B&CinB.C.]

If your worried about the amount of waste water I've seen ads for systems that run two membranes that they say increase production of RODI water and cut way down on waste water .Not sure about cost vs savings

 

[SaltWaterTank_Noob]

If your worried about the amount of waste water I've seen ads for systems that run two membranes that they say increase production of RODI water and cut way down on waste water .Not sure about cost vs savings

Yeah, I think that's what it came down to, is it worth the cost and I don't think so. It might be more of an environmental friendly or conscious thing