Rodi sytem brs va aquafx

[tankaholic]

We are looking at rodi systems.
We are considering a 150 gal a day water saver system from brs or the barracuda system from aqua fx. My bf was quoted 500 plus for cusa system with 2 holding tanks.
So asking whata difference between the two other than cost?

How much does it cost to replace filter media? And about how often do you replace yours?

Our water dept adds clorine to our water and tds coming out at tap is under 300 tds

Thanks in advance

 

[AquaFX Verified Sponsor]

I am glad to answer any questions you have. Of course I am a bit biased, I will try to keep prejudice aside.
We have stopped using the 150 GPD membranes. They do not perform consistently and they periodically fail our QC. We much prefer a 200 GPD with two top performing membranes. We use a solid aluminum bracket, which means there is never a rusty bracket hanging on your wall. The Barracuda Glacial is an excellent deal right now, includes the Dual inline TDS meter, and Automatic shutoff, a pressure gauge and a flush Kit standard. I would be happy to include free shipping for mentioning Reef2Reef.
Please ask any question you like, I will do my best to answer you.

 

[jsker]

I have the Barracuda 100 gpd with the Chloramine buster package added. I have only positive things to say about the RO/DI system. The reason I suggest the Chloramine buster package is that your DI resin will last longer and you TDS will be less to your DI due to the addition of Chloramines to the drink water. I would also look at your water pressure and make sure that yours is above 65 PSI. From what I have been reading is the membrane is more effective at higher pressure.

I have been replacing my filter every 6 to seven months and just replace my membrane after 2 years. To replace the filters the cost is $60.00. I just switch to replacing my own DI and adding the silicabuster resin and AquaFX was happy to show me how much to use and they all sell the DI and the Silicabuster DI resins that you can pack your own filter.

 

[AquaFX Verified Sponsor]

https://www.dropbox.com/home?preview=Aqua+FX+.ed..mp4 I am not sure if this will work, but here is great testmony on Chloramine Blaster

 

[tankaholic]

well here's my thing... what's the true difference between your product and bulk reef supplys 6 stage with water saver plus ?
or whatever they labeled it..
Do you guys offer a refill kit? how much is it gonna cost me to replace filters? how often?
my ppms is 282
my water co said they use chlorine.

 

[tankaholic]

ohhhh one other thing what is the ballyhoo? i'm looking for a 150 gpd system with as little waste

 

[Medic755]

I use the BRS 4-stage plus and added later on the water saver package. I don't need anything more. My TDS in is 70, PSI is 70, and my chlorine level is right at federally mandated levels where most are higher, by a lot. I too called my water company, and probably ended up on a watch list because of it. I love the system and I loved the price and operating cost even more. Remember that most membranes are made by the same people, DOW, unless they do it themselves. Even still, it's probably DOW material. BRS did a video on this exact thing. That you have to read the fine print of the specs for the membrane.

With how high your TDS is though I would go with two DI resin cartridges. if coming in is 300, 98% is only getting you down to 6 ish. Mine is 1-2 going into my resin on a bad day when the incoming water is really cold.

 

[AquaFX Verified Sponsor]

well here's my thing... what's the true difference between your product and bulk reef supplys 6 stage with water saver plus ?
or whatever they labeled it..
Do you guys offer a refill kit? how much is it gonna cost me to replace filters? how often?
my ppms is 282
my water co said they use chlorine.

Can you tell me which system you would like me to compare, there are several systems with several price points. I don't want to give you bad information. We do have refillable filter canisters, which we use for our DI. The filter change is as follows;

1. Sediment Filter: is first in line; removing particles that can be physically filtered out. An example of a particle that would be removed is sand. This filter’s life depends on the amount of particles in your water. The best gauge of this filter’s life is pressure drop. When you see a 5 PSIG drop, you should change your filter. Discoloration is also a sign that the filter is loaded and therefore time to replace with a new filter. Some silt may clog filter prematurely

2. Carbon Block, GAC or Chloramine Blaster Filter: These filters effectively reduce VOC’s (Volatile Organic Compounds) ONLY for water that is safe by the federal Safe Water Drinking Standards. If you have water with a known containment, you need to treat it accordingly. The only cost effective way to predict filter life is by the gallon used. The standard carbon block will filter 3,750 gal @ 1.0 GPM of 2ppm Chlorine (Cl2). The High Capacity Block with effectively filter 9000 gallons at the same conditions. A GAC will yield 5000 gallons of treated water@ 1.0 GPM of 2ppm Chlorine (Cl2) . The Chloramine Blasters are run 2 in series and will yield approximately 8000 gallons of treated water Do not exclude drain water from this capacity, as it is treated water.


3. Reverse Osmosis Membrane: This is the first component in the system that reduces Total Dissolved Solids (TDS); a common example of dissolved solids is salt. A TDS meter is the way to determine if your membrane is operating properly. A properly operating membrane will give you a TDS reduction of at least 90%. EXAMPLE: Raw water TDS is 100ppm, after the membrane it should be 10ppm or less. Membranes can fail by Clogging or Scaling, in which case very little or no water will be produced. Membranes will also fail from contact with chlorine. If this occurs the water quality will be very poor. Changing the carbon filter on time is essential. Hot water will also ruin a membrane (>80 Deg. F). If your membrane produces significantly more than it is rated for, that is an indication that something is wrong.


4. Deionization Filter (DI): IF USED The DI filter is the last filter inline. This filter consists of 2 resins. One is charged with Hydrogen (H+) and the other a Hydroxide ion (OH-). As water passes over these resins, the remaining “salts” (or ions) exchange out and only H+ and OH- are released into the stream. Due to the quality of resin we use, the water you get will be, literally as pure as possible. The resin is a color indicating resin; it will slowly change from a dark purple/blue/black to a rust red/orange color. As this filter nears the end of its useful life you may experience “break though”. Keep this in mind, depending on the water quality needed. For applications demanding 18 Mega-Ohm water (like laboratories) , 2 DI’s are STRONGLY recommended.

 

[AquaFX Verified Sponsor]

The Ballyhoo can be built to your specs....The AquaFX Ballyhoo produces 18 mega-ohm Ultrapure Water with no waste stream. Each AquaFX DI yields approximately 50 Gallon of DI water depending on your local water quality. Filter Life is completely dependent on incoming water quality. The standard configuration is an AquaFX Carbon Block followed by 2 AquaFX Color indicating Virgin DI’s. We can add sediments, other carbon types or build to your particular needs. Give us a call and we will get you what you need. All this is mounted on a keyholed Aluminum (never Rust) Bracket. Great for use with Chloramine Blaster to prolong the life of your carbon.

 

[Falreef]

Just started using a BRS 150gpd water saver unit. Pressure seems to run about 40-50. I ran it for 1 hour as they recommend when first starting it up.
Produced 40 gallons in about 7 hours. Fills up a 5 gallon bucket within 45-50 minutes. Within 1 hour can have a heated to tank temp 78F and saltwater
5 gallons ready within 1 hour after that. So fairly quick. TDS going into the final membrane was about 3-4 initially.
With TDS out reading 0. However I noted that the water in the collections is running TDS 2-3-4, I don't know if this is good or bad.
I assume this is fine and it is usable. The pH however has me stumped. The pH seems to run about 8.32-8.4 for the final product. Would of thought it
would have to be lower at 7.0 or just under with RODI. My tap water is well water with a TDS around 125-135. Waste water is about 200 TDS.
I'm planning to use the waste for my freshwater tanks.
The BRS 150gpd water saver unit is fairly easy to set up and works well with the auto shut off as well as the float valve. The price for this 5 chamber (really it is 6 chambers)
unit is better than others that I have seen. The unit is supposed to reduce the waste from about a 1 : 4 ratio of final product : waste water to about 1 : 2.
I still have to time that out and seek what happens with volumes wasted and volumes produced.
Too bad there is not an optional floor rack it can be mounted on. Also flow diverter doesn't come with a garden hose to faucet connector, which is what is in most
slop and laundry room sinks.

 

[AquaFX Verified Sponsor]

Just started using a BRS 150gpd water saver unit. Pressure seems to run about 40-50. I ran it for 1 hour as they recommend when first starting it up.
Produced 40 gallons in about 7 hours. Fills up a 5 gallon bucket within 45-50 minutes. Within 1 hour can have a heated to tank temp 78F and saltwater
5 gallons ready within 1 hour after that. So fairly quick. TDS going into the final membrane was about 3-4 initially.
With TDS out reading 0. However I noted that the water in the collections is running TDS 2-3-4, I don't know if this is good or bad.
I assume this is fine and it is usable. The pH however has me stumped. The pH seems to run about 8.32-8.4 for the final product. Would of thought it
would have to be lower at 7.0 or just under with RODI. My tap water is well water with a TDS around 125-135. Waste water is about 200 TDS.
I'm planning to use the waste for my freshwater tanks.
The BRS 150gpd water saver unit is fairly easy to set up and works well with the auto shut off as well as the float valve. The price for this 5 chamber (really it is 6 chambers)
unit is better than others that I have seen. The unit is supposed to reduce the waste from about a 1 : 4 ratio of final product : waste water to about 1 : 2.
I still have to time that out and seek what happens with volumes wasted and volumes produced.
Too bad there is not an optional floor rack it can be mounted on. Also flow diverter doesn't come with a garden hose to faucet connector, which is what is in most
slop and laundry room sinks.

The TDS rising in the barrel may be due to a few things.

1. it not being "FOOD GRADE SAFE"
2. If you don't have a lid over the container can cause this also.
3. It could be, if you mix in the same bucket the residue can coat the walls with salt and DI water will grab that and make TDS go back up.

As far as the pH goes, I can't asset this issue till we get the container TDS fixed.

Please let me know what the outcome is. Love problem solving! :)