Salifert Phosphate Test

[DraggingTail]

Does anyone have experience with Salifert? LFS said my 0 reading is not accurate because I was using API.

But this looks like 0 as well....

Thoughts?

 

[DraggingTail]

Anyone?

 

[Mastiffsrule]

When you look at the sample with salifert it is best to do it in natural light. It shows color a bit better.
Also once you get down low I would say move to a Hanna Checker for ultra low range. Salifert reads down to .03. API at is not sensitive enough to give an accurate reading.

 

[DraggingTail]

When you look at the sample with salifert it is best to do it in natural light. It shows color a bit better.
Also once you get down low I would say move to a Hanna Checker for ultra low range. Salifert reads down to .03. API at is not sensitive enough to give an accurate reading.

Would you say my phosphates are out of line?

 

[Mastiffsrule]

Phosphate is low, but I would not say out of line and not an urgency. Check the expiration date on the test box. It looks older to me, but not sure. Also I would do another test or 2 more to replicate the results. Want to rule out testing error.

If you are running GFO or something like chemi pure blue I would stop. Those are stripping phosphate out. Also if you have an algae problem that could give a low reading.

I would start first at testing nitrate if you have not done so. Your nitrate should be low also in general.then we can look at all parameters, tank info. Fish and coral info and feedings

Also it may be fine and right at the .03 mark

 

[DraggingTail]

Phosphate is low, but I would not say out of line and not an urgency. Check the expiration date on the test box. It looks older to me, but not sure. Also I would do another test or 2 more to replicate the results. Want to rule out testing error.

If you are running GFO or something like chemi pure blue I would stop. Those are stripping phosphate out. Also if you have an algae problem that could give a low reading.

I would start first at testing nitrate if you have not done so. Your nitrate should be low also in general.then we can look at all parameters, tank info. Fish and coral info and feedings

Also it may be fine and right at the .03 mark

I do have an algae problem.

My params are below.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet...RdChcCXN_XPrurixjkQD8e_pVVA/edit?usp=drivesdk

 

[Mastiffsrule]

Numbers look good. I am thinking the test is showing 0 since the algae is using the Po4. I saw a few crabs and snails along with the clowns. Do you think you have enough CuC?

Looking at feeding, lighting and tank maintenance is there any adjustments you think you could make? Lower feeding amount or frequency, shorten lighting periods, or maybe step up cleaning are things that can help.

There are also things like cheato, algae turf scrubbers, additional bio media, etc that can be used. I would try the simplest first and go from there until starting to see results. Do a big cleaning which includes manually removing as much algae as possible, water change, swap out or remove media or sponges or filter pads.

 

[fish farmer]

My tank has looked a lot like yours and my Salifert kit would be on the other side of the chart....mine still hovers around 0.5 ppm. I had reservations with a new Salifert PH kit, it would barely read 8.0 throughout it's lifetime. When I got a new kit, my reading are now 8.3.

 

[DesertReefT4r]

With no3 and po4 low and still have the algae growth like that you need take a different approach. Up your clean up crew. More mixed snails and hermit crabs, a small tang and even a small urchin. You need mouth in there to remove algae and prevent new growth. Manual removal will be your most agressive method of removal and control. Get in there and pull off what you can as you syphon it out.

 

[Orm Embar]

Numbers look good. I am thinking the test is showing 0 since the algae is using the Po4. I saw a few crabs and snails along with the clowns. Do you think you have enough CuC?

Looking at feeding, lighting and tank maintenance is there any adjustments you think you could make? Lower feeding amount or frequency, shorten lighting periods, or maybe step up cleaning are things that can help.

There are also things like cheato, algae turf scrubbers, additional bio media, etc that can be used. I would try the simplest first and go from there until starting to see results. Do a big cleaning which includes manually removing as much algae as possible, water change, swap out or remove media or sponges or filter pads.

Agreed - less nutrient input (whatever your fish eat in 5-30 seconds, realize that dried food is highly concentrated), more export (Chaeto/refugium, algae reactor, algae scrubber, et cetera). Randy has great articles on lowering phosphate and nitrate (even though your test reads undetectable, if you have problem algae then by definition your nutrients are too high and simply being consumed by the nuisance algae).

Clean up crew makes things look neat and deals with patches, but they can't work alone without less nutrient input/more export. I like snails and hermits since I have a smaller tank; certain fish would also work well.

 

[DraggingTail]

Numbers look good. I am thinking the test is showing 0 since the algae is using the Po4. I saw a few crabs and snails along with the clowns. Do you think you have enough CuC?

Looking at feeding, lighting and tank maintenance is there any adjustments you think you could make? Lower feeding amount or frequency, shorten lighting periods, or maybe step up cleaning are things that can help.

There are also things like cheato, algae turf scrubbers, additional bio media, etc that can be used. I would try the simplest first and go from there until starting to see results. Do a big cleaning which includes manually removing as much algae as possible, water change, swap out or remove media or sponges or filter pads.

I have a dozen turbos, 20 blue legs, zebras, astrias.

I also have a refugium with chaeto. My MH is on 13 hours and CFL in refugium on 11.

I change my socks twice a week.

 

[DraggingTail]

With no3 and po4 low and still have the algae growth like that you need take a different approach. Up your clean up crew. More mixed snails and hermit crabs, a small tang and even a small urchin. You need mouth in there to remove algae and prevent new growth. Manual removal will be your most agressive method of removal and control. Get in there and pull off what you can as you syphon it out.

I have a Kole Tang and Lawnmower Blenny.

I feel I have a ton of snails. They only go on the glass and only at night.

I do brush algae of when I do a water change. I also run my siphon into my filter sock and scrub algae off just before I change my socks twice a week as well.

I do notice as my corraline spreads the GHA stops growing. Maybe I just need patience....

 

[DraggingTail]

Agreed - less nutrient input (whatever your fish eat in 5-30 seconds, realize that dried food is highly concentrated), more export (Chaeto/refugium, algae reactor, algae scrubber, et cetera). Randy has great articles on lowering phosphate and nitrate (even though your test reads undetectable, if you have problem algae then by definition your nutrients are too high and simply being consumed by the nuisance algae).

Clean up crew makes things look neat and deals with patches, but they can't work alone without less nutrient input/more export. I like snails and hermits since I have a smaller tank; certain fish would also work well.

I used to use spectrum which I think started the issue. Only feeding one block of frozen mysis twice a week now.

 

[Gregg @ ADP]

I have a Kole Tang and Lawnmower Blenny.

I feel I have a ton of snails. They only go on the glass and only at night.

I do brush algae of when I do a water change. I also run my siphon into my filter sock and scrub algae off just before I change my socks twice a week as well.

I do notice as my corraline spreads the GHA stops growing. Maybe I just need patience....

On my phone and can’t tell exactly, but that looks like GHA.

Since you don’t have a ton of coral going, I would siphon out a bucket of water, pull the rocks and use brushes (tooth, cleaning, etc...make sure they’re clean) and vigorously scrub the algae off in the bucket of water.

Your CUC isn’t going to be big on eating that kind of algae, so you could do a couple of things. 1) throw an urchin in there (long spines love GHA, but they’re a pain long term). When growth is on the low side (ur after you brush it off) turbo grazer snails will eat it...but once you get the big clumps, they just nibble around the edges. So, knock it back and let some CUC take care of the rest.

2) scrub it off, and then add some GFO to try to strip excess phosphate before the algae can really grow back. When you see more substantial growth, scrub it off and remove it.

If you can knock it back, other higher/more desirable algae will outcompete it. But when it’s established, it’s not going anywhere w/o intervention.

 

[Gregg @ ADP]

I used to use spectrum which I think started the issue. Only feeding one block of frozen mysis twice a week now.

Yeah, but your fish need food daily.

You just need to get out ahead of the algae. Established tanks that have hit a point of balance and stasis can usually take big additions of food.

 

[DraggingTail]

Yeah, but your fish need food daily.

You just need to get out ahead of the algae. Established tanks that have hit a point of balance and stasis can usually take big additions of food.

I have
2 clowns
3 pajamas
1 lawnmower Blenny
1 Kole Tang
1 coral beauty

The last three eat off the rocks.
I see the pajamas and clowns eat copepods.

They are fat. So they eat. Plus I feed the magnificent and the clowns eat that there too.

 

[Mastiffsrule]

Hi,

Spectrum is good but I stopped using it. Pellets and flake do not bring enough to the party so to speak to justify all the trash you have to take out after. As Gregg mentioned they do have to eat.. 2 cubes mysis a week really is not enough for everyone . I could see 1 a day as not going overboard. A lot defrost the cube and strain out the water to get some of the nutrients out before feeding

Your photo period also seems a bit long. If you think about it algae needs light along with nutrients. They are pulling a lot of light from 13 hours in the DT and then additional 11 from the sump.

My recommendation is feed a bit more but try to use foods like Larry’s or even live like black worms. Clean the tank often so it does not get a strong foot hold. And back off the light period a bit as long as coral does not suffer. I would start there. It will take 2 or 3 weeks to see any results. If not working you can always pursue other options.

 

[DraggingTail]

Hi,

Spectrum is good but I stopped using it. Pellets and flake do not bring enough to the party so to speak to justify all the trash you have to take out after. As Gregg mentioned they do have to eat.. 2 cubes mysis a week really is not enough for everyone . I could see 1 a day as not going overboard. A lot defrost the cube and strain out the water to get some of the nutrients out before feeding

Your photo period also seems a bit long. If you think about it algae needs light along with nutrients. They are pulling a lot of light from 13 hours in the DT and then additional 11 from the sump.

My recommendation is feed a bit more but try to use foods like Larry’s or even live like black worms. Clean the tank often so it does not get a strong foot hold. And back off the light period a bit as long as coral does not suffer. I would start there. It will take 2 or 3 weeks to see any results. If not working you can always pursue other options.

How much light?

 

[Mastiffsrule]

How much light?

Sorry if I missed this, how long have you been running the MH and which watt?

I would back off maybe a hour a week so nothing gets to shocked. If not already, I would run the cfl on a reverse photosynthesis period. This way you get benefit of some additional ph stabilization and the water is not getting hit in the dt and sump at same time.

 

[DraggingTail]

Sorry if I missed this, how long have you been running the MH and which watt?

I would back off maybe a hour a week so nothing gets to shocked. If not already, I would run the cfl on a reverse photosynthesis period. This way you get benefit of some additional ph stabilization and the water is not getting hit in the dt and sump at same time.

13 hrs. 400W MH with following bulb.

https://www.bulkreefsupply.com/megachrome-crystal-17500k-single-ended-giesemann.html

Already reverse. The CFL kicks on in the fuge when the MH goes off