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Syracuse area. More central than upstate. Most people who are not from NY automatically assume I mean central NYC when I say central NY so I default to upstate lol.Where upstate?
Ok I got through all 32 pages for inspiration. looks like in 2020 shipping is out unless you have deep pockets.
so question why dont we just use aquariums? like 40 breeders 55 or even 75 gal? from petco dollar per gallon. I know it only up to 29 gal these days but still a good deal I believe 50% off up to 75s
I am surprised I did not see that.
I have a cpl 40br and a stand maybe I'll play around with it.
Late, but if anyone has not told you yet, remove them. They WILL Leach into your water, and over time will contaminate your tank until one day things start dying and you don’t know why.They only come in contact when I'm filling the bucket. i'll be sure to keep an eye on them, though. Thanks so much!
At least with our setup, we can close a valve and open another that redirects the water to the hose. Then disconnect the hose at a union pvc point and drain the hoseQuestion for those of you that run a hose for ato and water changes. It looks like you use one hose for both and control the desired reservoir with valves. How do you empty the hose when you are done?
For instance, after you do a water change and pump saltwater through the hose, after you shut off the pump and the valve, doesnt the hose stay filled with saltwater? Then when you go to fill up your ato, won’t the first part that you pump out be saltwater because that’s what was already sitting in the hose? I’m sure I’m missing something but I’m trying to design a mixing station and I’m getting hung up on that.
Thanks
But isn’t the plumbing on your intake side of the pump that comes after the last valve and on the output side of your pump before the union to disconnect the hose still filled with saltwater at that point?At least with our setup, we can close a valve and open another that redirects the water to the hose. Then disconnect the hose at a union pvc point and drain the hose
Hose is installed on the pump output side, it's Teed off from the return line to a storage tank.But isn’t the plumbing on your intake side of the pump that comes after the last valve and on the output side of your pump before the union to disconnect the hose still filled with saltwater at that point?
Before switching from saltwater to RODI, I run the hose back to a sink with a Python eductor on it, suck the line clear, then flush it with RODI to the sink. You need to make an adapter with two female Python ends on it to make it work. After I fill my ATO, I connect it back to the sink and suck it clear again.Question for those of you that run a hose for ato and water changes. It looks like you use one hose for both and control the desired reservoir with valves. How do you empty the hose when you are done?
For instance, after you do a water change and pump saltwater through the hose, after you shut off the pump and the valve, doesnt the hose stay filled with saltwater? Then when you go to fill up your ato, won’t the first part that you pump out be saltwater because that’s what was already sitting in the hose? I’m sure I’m missing something but I’m trying to design a mixing station and I’m getting hung up on that.
Thanks
I have a similar set up- it's plumbed directly to my display tank and can also flush/fill into a sink drain. No lugging bucket for me!We have a two 55G barrels setup this way. An auto topoff keeps the top barrel full of fresh water. A bulk head is in the bottom of the top barrel with valve that we open to fill the bottom barrel as needed for salt water mix up.
Jack
Ok, cool - so you just push the water in the top and the natural circulation gets all the Sal dissolved eventually. Thanks!I have a vertical 55 gal tank (18” x 18” x 40”). I pull water from the bottom and push it back into the top via normal 1” bulkheads. I’m using Tropic Marin Pro and have no issues at all with salt piling up on the bottom during mixing. I add the salt 1 cup at a time while the water circulates, let it run for another 30 minutes, and have clear water.
Right now I'm planning on building a nearly identical setup. Was thinking about building the stand the same way but I wasn't sure if it would work out until I saw your pictures. Thank you for sharing. I am a little bit concerned about using the brute cans. Have you had problems with the UniSeals leaking?Here is my set up! I used two 35 gallon Brute Cans from Home Depot and my plumbing parts like my 90's, Cepex Ball Valves and my Spears Gate Vales were all bought from BRS!
For my attachments, I used the Banjo connectors that connect right to my Marnie /RV Drinking water hose that goes right to the tank! Pump wise, I am using a Panworld 40px.
I just need to glue a few fittings together and this bad boy will be ready to fire up! THANK GOD, no more carrying or lugging around 5-gallon jugs. The stand was built out of 2 by 4's and Cement blocks.
Tank Info: 120 Mixed Reef