saving a tank from bryopsis outbreak
- Nano Build
- Thread starter kimba
- Start date
- Tagged users None
yes that looks to be on par with a single treatment run, this algae has holdfasts that work into the calcified areas on that wall, specifically the old coralline spotting which if alive would repel, not be a footing for algae. purple live coralline specifically rejects algae and white previous coralline houses it, fascinating difference. it doesn't mean algae cant grow on coralline, it means there are biosystems that typically prevent it called allelopathy. For sure 100% I keep total coralline covered rocks by dosing c balance, so it helps me have no algae.
if a treated surface of holdfasts has some light regrowth that's not a prob, some growths need to be hit a few times to knock it back. actually scraping it out of the tank afterwards helps too.
but you can still be algae free, even go so far as to work a cleaning on that tank exactly as ive done in my thread. I can see export opportunities. That algae can be razor scraped clean, the bed 100% refurbed and kept, and all put back together clean as a whistle in about 2 hours. just changing the water was nice, ejecting all total waste in the system and razor cleaning the algae is next level clean. what I did in my thread is next level clean, for 10 yrs as an example.
just options to consider.
if a treated surface of holdfasts has some light regrowth that's not a prob, some growths need to be hit a few times to knock it back. actually scraping it out of the tank afterwards helps too.
but you can still be algae free, even go so far as to work a cleaning on that tank exactly as ive done in my thread. I can see export opportunities. That algae can be razor scraped clean, the bed 100% refurbed and kept, and all put back together clean as a whistle in about 2 hours. just changing the water was nice, ejecting all total waste in the system and razor cleaning the algae is next level clean. what I did in my thread is next level clean, for 10 yrs as an example.
just options to consider.
Last edited:
Regarding old sand, it should be rinsed so harshly that no detritus or silt can be had when it's disturbed, so if you want to mix it w new you can, they w both be detritus free.
I've been trying to figure out the best way to rinse my sand. I was going to remove all live stock and drain water down to 1" above sand line and. Then stir it up and dump the water, add more salt water, stir and dump until it runs clear.
but now I'm wondering if I bought enough water. (I have 6 gal). I planned on using 1/2 my tank water and 1/2 newly made to fill my new tank.
I'm wondering if I can add the salt mix to TAP water (we have a well not town water) for the rinsing of the worst of it. Then use my RO salt water for the final rinse of the sand.
I've been trying to figure out the best way to rinse my sand. I was going to remove all live stock and drain water down to 1" above sand line and. Then stir it up and dump the water, add more salt water, stir and dump until it runs clear.
but now I'm wondering if I bought enough water. (I have 6 gal). I planned on using 1/2 my tank water and 1/2 newly made to fill my new tank.
I'm wondering if I can add the salt mix to TAP water (we have a well not town water) for the rinsing of the worst of it. Then use my RO salt water for the final rinse of the sand.
Jeramy
New Member
I have done this in the past but have found 5 gallon buckets work best for rinsing sand beds to be reused. I used rodi water without salt for the initial rinsing and then used some fresh made salt water for the final rinsing before adding to the new system. No need to waste the salt doing your rinsing with salt water. Also try not to over fill the bucket with sand to be rinsed smaller batches are easier to deal with and will come clean with fewer rinses. hope that helps. this has been an interesting read so far and I feel that I have learned a lot.
On the topic of 100% water changes one thing to be careful of is that you match water parameters such as salinity temp and PH also you do not want to have drastic swings in ALK or Cal. especially if you have sps. The danger with large water changes is not the potential cycle it would be shock to the inhabitants due to rapid changes in these parameters.
Oh my goodness I'm done. 
I think everything went smooth, we'll see tomorrow. My fish is happy, my corals are mad. Took me 10 gal of water and a little over an hour to rinse the sand. My husband mixed the salt and water while I stirred and dumped.
It took me a little over an hour to put it all together. I thought the top piece of LR a little too big, but I moved everything back and I knida like it. Just hope I have enough room for more corals.
heres a pic
I think everything went smooth, we'll see tomorrow. My fish is happy, my corals are mad. Took me 10 gal of water and a little over an hour to rinse the sand. My husband mixed the salt and water while I stirred and dumped. It took me a little over an hour to put it all together. I thought the top piece of LR a little too big, but I moved everything back and I knida like it. Just hope I have enough room for more corals.
heres a pic
nervousmonkey
LPS Lover, SPS Enabler
Awesome job! New tank no cycle all ready to go! Great aquascape too. Congrats! Another convert to forced tank compliance. How was it Kimba? Pretty easy isn't it?
It was a little easier than I thought it would be switching tanks. Truth be told, I'm still a little nervous about my coral with the algae, I don't want it spreading. But I think if I maintain my water changes and keep my lights on not too long, it should clear up.
I am sooooooooo glad you told me not to cycle my tank.
Thanks for the help.
I am sooooooooo glad you told me not to cycle my tank.
Thanks for the help.
Oh, I was also wondering if where my CF were almost 2 yrs old, should I aclimate my coral to the new LEDs? Start them on the sand, then move them higher slowly? Maybe have the lights on for only 3 hrs first day then to 6 the sencond day?
I don't know, seems kinda bright in there.
I don't know, seems kinda bright in there.
If you have alge problems cut back on hours your lights on. The corals will be fine with 6 hours of light. Also do you work nights or something why have you're lights on when your busy and not enjoying it i have always used a 2 to 10 cycle that way the tank is lit while im around.
Tech m was reformulated a while back and no longer works.
1 ml of hydrogen peroxide per 10 gallons seems to take care of it. With the tank transfer you can dip all the rocks and corals in a 33%solution and that should take care of what's left.
So the briopsis is dying, it is getting white, should I still be tweezing it off the rock or will my CUC eat it?
I got my Nano Reef parts A&B yesterday and added that today, just tested PH and it's 8.2. I love that stuff!! It's the only thing I add to my tank.
my star polyps are opening today more than I have seen in a while. One of my toadstools in shedding so I moved him more in the flow. My mushrooms are kinda wierd though, instead of opening up they look more like they are stretching, like a trumpet. Is that bad?
I got my Nano Reef parts A&B yesterday and added that today, just tested PH and it's 8.2. I love that stuff!! It's the only thing I add to my tank.
my star polyps are opening today more than I have seen in a while. One of my toadstools in shedding so I moved him more in the flow. My mushrooms are kinda wierd though, instead of opening up they look more like they are stretching, like a trumpet. Is that bad?
ok to do either, a little algae dying isn't much waste even though you read that it has the ability to alter test kit readings for phosphate if any algae at all is present. it actually has to be adding biomass, and being removed, just like an ATS or pruned refugium does in order to be absorbing the waste a po4 test kit would otherwise register.
another giant hobby misnomer, small tufts of algae that are not adding mass but remaining in place mos are affecting po4 readings.
so most would remove them to make the tank look better, it was important to leave them in place long enough to make sure the peroxide was a valid use of time, some algae wont respond. now that it did die id remove. the cuc finds and eats other matter as well
another giant hobby misnomer, small tufts of algae that are not adding mass but remaining in place mos are affecting po4 readings.
so most would remove them to make the tank look better, it was important to leave them in place long enough to make sure the peroxide was a valid use of time, some algae wont respond. now that it did die id remove. the cuc finds and eats other matter as well
Pure excellence in forced control and picture updates. Zero cycle rip cleaning to force compliance.
Right now as we speak, many keepers have GHA in a nano reef and are going to leave it in, they'll try what you tried in about 4 mos after bleaching out many corals with gfo following the old stinky rules of reefkeeping
They'll do what you did only after near loss of all corals and after making algae excuses to everyone who sees their tank for four mos. but they will not opt out of that four mos right now...not allowed to. No formal books or articles allow it.
What 2% will do, however, is opt out of algae by force and be algae free when I check in on their hobby in five years, and five after that.
Quick sum:
The only animal in your tank who doesn't like 100% water changes is the fish, so hold him elsewhere if you need to.
A hands off reef will get algae
A sandbed can be blasted clean 100% as often as you like w no recycle it will remove all waste in your tank, and is a great thing to do.
No matter what invader you bring in, that reef can be taken apart at any time as often as you like, parted out on the table as living material, and that invader burned horribly lol and reef put back together.
The fountain of youth for nano reefs is in this thread but only 2% are going to choose for it. The vast majority simply want a constant algae challenge and I do not know why.
Right now as we speak, many keepers have GHA in a nano reef and are going to leave it in, they'll try what you tried in about 4 mos after bleaching out many corals with gfo following the old stinky rules of reefkeeping
They'll do what you did only after near loss of all corals and after making algae excuses to everyone who sees their tank for four mos. but they will not opt out of that four mos right now...not allowed to. No formal books or articles allow it.
What 2% will do, however, is opt out of algae by force and be algae free when I check in on their hobby in five years, and five after that.
Quick sum:
The only animal in your tank who doesn't like 100% water changes is the fish, so hold him elsewhere if you need to.
A hands off reef will get algae
A sandbed can be blasted clean 100% as often as you like w no recycle it will remove all waste in your tank, and is a great thing to do.
No matter what invader you bring in, that reef can be taken apart at any time as often as you like, parted out on the table as living material, and that invader burned horribly lol and reef put back together.
The fountain of youth for nano reefs is in this thread but only 2% are going to choose for it. The vast majority simply want a constant algae challenge and I do not know why.
Last edited:
lisawolk
Community Member
Which
Which method did you choose? I've got bryopsis in my 25. Scrubbed everything outside of tank in peroxide, it came back.The briopsis is definitely on it's way out.
Similar threads
