SB Reef Light Pro 32 Timer Diode Swap

DSmithZ28

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I was wondering if anyone has changed out diodes in the SB Reef Pro 32 Timer model? I had two of them lose a significant amount of par compared to the 2 new ones I have so I had to buy more drivers. While I’m changing those out I was thinking about changing out some white lights to UV and Blue. Has anyone done this and have any advice about which diodes to use and how many whites to swap out? Any good links I missed searching our information would be greatly appreciated.
 
I was wondering if anyone has changed out diodes in the SB Reef Pro 32 Timer model? I had two of them lose a significant amount of par compared to the 2 new ones I have so I had to buy more drivers. While I’m changing those out I was thinking about changing out some white lights to UV and Blue. Has anyone done this and have any advice about which diodes to use and how many whites to swap out? Any good links I missed searching our information would be greatly appreciated.
Should be pretty much the same as any Chinese Black Box diode swaps.
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/diy-changing-diodes-on-black-box-blackbox-leds.210698/
 
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@Dana Riddle do you have any suggestions?
I performed a procedure when I was in Hawaii that examined the effects of spectrum on coral growth (Porites species). The light that had the most violet/blue produced the most growth, although an analysis showed differences among the different lights was not significant. Hence, it seems to boil down to personal preference. Now, with that said, I would build a light with some UV-A, plenty of violet/blue, and red light (that shouldn't shouldn't exceed 10-15% of the total. Some light around 730nm or so *might* relax Photosystem I (the electron acceptor) and prevent a damaging bottleneck of electrons in Photosystem II (this if light intensity is approaching photosaturation - something along the line of PAR values around 300-400 for many corals.) I'll post a link if you're interested in seeing the Hawaii light experiment.
 
I performed a procedure when I was in Hawaii that examined the effects of spectrum on coral growth (Porites species). The light that had the most violet/blue produced the most growth, although an analysis showed differences among the different lights was not significant. Hence, it seems to boil down to personal preference. Now, with that said, I would build a light with some UV-A, plenty of violet/blue, and red light (that shouldn't shouldn't exceed 10-15% of the total. Some light around 730nm or so *might* relax Photosystem I (the electron acceptor) and prevent a damaging bottleneck of electrons in Photosystem II (this if light intensity is approaching photosaturation - something along the line of PAR values around 300-400 for many corals.) I'll post a link if you're interested in seeing the Hawaii light experiment.
I would like to read it. Thanks!
 
https://www.reef2reef.com/threads/sb-reefbright-led-layout.361363/page-2
The orig. sbreef is pretty well populated.
Adding more blue/violet/deep blue/UV to the white channel is a matter of taste or PAR requirement.

Suppose since you would be doing some surgery anyways a few 720's (740's) in there doesn't hurt.
https://www.dhgate.com/product/high...8YwFXjE1rBl8h6rekra4ySt7gtb4AinhoCWLkQAvD_BwE
Wouldn't hurt to throw a few ambers (500nm) in there as well increasing parity to metal halide spectrums.
 

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