Seneye PAR meter

[bobssecrtsn]

So I just recieved my seneye par meter, Installed the software and unpacked the meter, Plugged it in, dropped it into the tank, and with pumps on 1" below the surface it reads 450, anyone reads low for any reason?

fixture is a nanobox hybrid 36" (6bulb 6puck) ( bulbs are about 8 months old )
fixture is about 8" above waterline
meter is centerof fixture (leveled)

 

[swk]

Mine reads super low out of the water but was actually pretty dang close to my apogee once submerged. I

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

Not much to setup really.
Log in to their site and grab the software after setting up an account.
Quick install and plug it in.

I do not use the NH3/temp and pH features with their "slides".
Don't even fool with sending all of my readings to the site either.
You could, and have graphs and history for sure.

Have noticed that Kelvin readings go astray with LED's in mixed combinations.
Checking only one lamp it is about spot on with color temperature.
Lux measurements seem correct when testing household lamps and such.

Using this in planted tanks and really only concerned with photosynthesis.
LED builds for me are 10K's, full spectrum, and 520nm(green)
I use the 10K to cut the pink out of the full spectrum LED's @ a 1:1 ratio.
Then add at least 1 or 2 greens to cut back the PAR and exhibit plants better.
Haven't done SW since the early 80's.

So I just recieved my seneye par meter, Installed the software and unpacked the meter, Plugged it in, dropped it into the tank, and with pumps on 1" below the surface it reads 450, anyone reads low for any reason?

fixture is a nanobox hybrid 36" (6bulb 6puck) ( bulbs are about 8 months old )
fixture is about 8" above waterline
meter is centerof fixture (leveled)

will you post both lux and par data....pretty please...

 

[bobssecrtsn]

I will certainly! after I finish doing chores :mad:


In the mean time i did see my lux at 16K right below the surface!

 

[bobssecrtsn]

Okay, Before I post this picture of my par I would like to note my current setup.

These numbers are based from tank flows ON and screen net OFF (brs 1/4 netting)

NANOBOX ATI hybrid (6bulb 6 puck) Fixture is 8" above water line!
Front to back B+, Coral +, B+, LED, B+,P+,B+

NO filter sock, I am able to see particles in the water. Photo is an old photo, And the numbers you see is where I placed my corals, ( Right side I could not check(cable was not long enough)

I turned my flow off but numbers were almost identical. +/- 5-10. As always these numbers were rounded +/- 5 as well.

I also forgot to mention, I did my best to have the meter pointing straight parallel to the light to get the most accurate reading

 

[bobssecrtsn]

Forgot to mention the fixture is 8" above water line!

 

[Maryland Guppy]

Puck #2
6-(FS) / 8-(10K)
4"/0" 674 PAR ( emitter is 4" above water)
Water Level 24150 LUX (barely submerged)
No K Kelvin

7"/3" 350 PAR
12000 LUX
No K Kelvin

10"/6" 180 PAR
6600 LUX
No K Kelvin

13"/9" 112 PAR
4200 LUX
No K Kelvin

16"/12" 75 PAR
3200 LUX
22.2K Kelvin

21.5"/17.5" 85 PAR
Substrate 3200 LUX
13.8K Kelvin

 

[swk]

So far I'm not too thrilled with mine. I guess I prefer the smaller size of the apogee sensor and being able to get real time readings.

I'll likely be replacing mine with something else.

 

[bobssecrtsn]

So far I'm not too thrilled with mine. I guess I prefer the smaller size of the apogee sensor and being able to get real time readings.

I'll likely be replacing mine with something else.

I get real time reading but there's a 1-2 second delay, the sensor is pretty bulky but I usually tested either on top or side of the coral so its a ball park, I'm just not to sure about the par readings I'm getting is accurate lol majority of people says this is about the same as he apogee... so let's hope so!

 

[gus6464]

I like how your lux shows low but PAR is quite high. Another example of why lux is absolutely useless unless a conversion factor is included for the specific light and spectrum.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

I like how your lux shows low but PAR is quite high. Another example of why lux is absolutely useless unless a conversion factor is included for the specific light and spectrum.

Hi gus.
Bobs t5 lux par is actually right on the mark for conversion. And the point of this is actually to confirm the data to there's no mis information. its a combined research effort.

 

[gus6464]

Hi gus.
Bobs t5 lux par is actually right on the mark for conversion. And the point of this is actually to confirm the data to there's no mis information. its a combined research effort.

His light is not a T5 only light. He has 6 nanobox pucks in there. That makes a huge difference.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

His light is not a T5 only light. He has 6 nanobox pucks in there. That makes a huge difference.

correct. It "should" increase the lux par constant number.

 

[gus6464]

correct. It "should" increase the lux par constant number.

And yet it doesn't. Because nanobox pucks are designed with high par low lux because of the lime diodes. If he had the new chips with mint the lux would be even lower.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

And yet it doesn't. Because nanobox pucks are designed with high par low lux because of the lime diodes. If he had the new chips with mint the lux would be even lower.

thats Possible yes.

Puck #2
6-(FS) / 8-(10K)
4"/0" 674 PAR ( emitter is 4" above water)
Water Level 24150 LUX (barely submerged)
No K Kelvin

7"/3" 350 PAR
12000 LUX
No K Kelvin

10"/6" 180 PAR
6600 LUX
No K Kelvin

13"/9" 112 PAR
4200 LUX
No K Kelvin

16"/12" 75 PAR
3200 LUX
22.2K Kelvin

21.5"/17.5" 85 PAR
Substrate 3200 LUX
13.8K Kelvin

What Light are you using.

 

[bobssecrtsn]

Hi gus.
Bobs t5 lux par is actually right on the mark for conversion. And the point of this is actually to confirm the data to there's no mis information. its a combined research effort.

His light is not a T5 only light. He has 6 nanobox pucks in there. That makes a huge difference.

correct. It "should" increase the lux par constant number.

And yet it doesn't. Because nanobox pucks are designed with high par low lux because of the lime diodes. If he had the new chips with mint the lux would be even lower.

Ah sorry guys I shouldve posted my % of LEDS They are the Array V3. Not sure What diodes they have. I do know they have 6 channels. Deep Blue, Red, Light blue, mint, neon green, and royal purple? I think thats what it is..

Deep blue : 63%
Red : 25%
light blue : 56
Mint(coloration of the app)(it isnt a white color) : 37%
green: 28%
royal purple : 25%

The par readings were measured with them being at this percentage if that makes a difference. Just to clarify a few things

Taken off nanobox website

V3 - Nano Box Array consists of :

• 2 - SEMILED Violet CH1
  
• 2 - REBEL ES Lime CH2
  
• 1 - Rebel Cyan CH3
  
• 1 - Rebel Blue CH3
  
• 4 - Luxeon T Royal Blue CH4
  
• 3 - Luxeon T Neutral White & Warm White CH2

 

[mcarroll]

Checking only one lamp it is about spot on with color temperature.

I've never seen it expressed anywhere, but it seems like this is their design intention....the sensor has a very narrow apeture and no integrating/diffusion disc.....has to be for a reason. ;)

 

[mcarroll]

being able to get real time readings.

I get real time reading but there's a 1-2 second delay

They slow down the readings to make it easier to get a reading. The cheapie lux meters we use have readings that jump arond like crazy....it can be a little hard for a newb to interpret what reading is "correct". This jumping around can also give you a sense of the actual flux of light in a given spot, which is why I think the "real" light meters usually don't dampen this effect too much....maybe Seneye went too far.

(Light is very not-constant....our brain just makes it seem like it is.)

 

[Maryland Guppy]

What Light are you using.

DIY 42 watt puck. 6-3watt full spectrum & 8-3watt 10K's, driven @ 700mA, 87% duty cycle PWM.
1 LDD driver per puck @ 52VDC, all LED's are China Epistar and nothing special, $11 for 50.
Out of a 50 count about 4 go right to the trash while bench testing.
Failure rate of 4 per year with about 150 beads in service.
Fans are 12VDC and I run them @ 4VDC to eliminate noise, heatsink temps are @ 25C.
52C without the fans which is right @ the Epistar limit.
3 of these pucks over a 75G.

Some of my other pucks have 1 green 520nm just to show the plants better.

 

[saltyfilmfolks]

DIY 42 watt puck. 6-3watt full spectrum & 8-3watt 10K's, driven @ 700mA, 87% duty cycle PWM.
1 LDD driver per puck @ 52VDC, all LED's are China Epistar and nothing special, $11 for 50.
Out of a 50 count about 4 go right to the trash while bench testing.
Failure rate of 4 per year with about 150 beads in service.
Fans are 12VDC and I run them @ 4VDC to eliminate noise, heatsink temps are @ 25C.
52C without the fans which is right @ the Epistar limit.
3 of these pucks over a 75G.

Some of my other pucks have 1 green 520nm just to show the plants better.

That's pretty dang cool.

I do enjoy that so many of find amazing ways to frustrate and challenge ourselves in different ways in this hobby.