Should I be concerned about the placement of this bubble tip anemone?

[LittleFidel]

Last night I received a beautiful bubble tip anemone from LiveAquaria via air mail. After drip acclimating, I placed the anemone at the bottom of my tank and let it attach to the tank. Lights stayed off overnight and were turned on this morning. When I checked during the sunrise phase, it was extended to the patch of Xenia above it and out on the glass to the frag plug on the left. After a full day of lights on, this is where it is now.

When, if ever, should I become worried about lighting, flow, and placement of this anemone?

 

[blaxsun]

They will usually move around the first few days that they're introduced. I have a few that are still exploring the tank a few weeks later, thought the rest have found their "bat cave" and settled down somewhat.

 

[Miami Reef]

What lighting do you have?

 

[LittleFidel]

I use two 7000k daylight LEDs that produce about 150 par at the bottom of the tank. One is on a 10 hr timer, the other uses reds for sunrise, ramps up to full spectrum midday, and uses blues for sunset. They keep my variety of LPS and softies happy.

I assumed, perhaps incorrectly, that the anemone would climb to the top of the live rock and reach up into the water column for the light. If they tend to behave in a way that’s more suited to bottom dwelling and cave use, that’s good to know

 

[Losirk]

um i think you may have vermetid snails all over the rocks

 

[blaxsun]

Every single one of my BTAs has its "foot" deep in a cave. So while they're out during the day, they retract into their cave or crevice at night.

 

[vetteguy53081]

They respond to light and water flow. Too much light or flow will cause this. Other things to know-
They’re fairly low maintenance and they can add a really neat look to your tank. Bubble Tip Anemone care requires you to have a strong understanding of these invertebrates if you want them to thrive. They’re not as easy to own as many people think. Thanks to the symbiotic relationship they form with certain fish, they are a joy to watch and care for. This species splits and propagates very easily in the right conditions, resulting in large captive populations.
The length of the tentacles can vary. The same goes for the size and shape of the bulb. With some specimens, the bulb is accompanied by a small tip. Interestingly enough, the tentacles can change based on the anemone’s environment. Below the splay of tentacles is the anemone’s foot. The foot is delicate. Yet, it has simple muscle fibers that help the creature move and anchor onto rocks.
Rose Bubble Tip Anemones are, by far, the most common type you’ll see on the market. They’re prolific propagators, which undoubtedly contributes to their popularity. This type is quite affordable and is a good option for first-time anemone owners. Rainbow bubble Tip Anemone that’s usually considered to be exotic. They’re rarer than standard Rose varieties and their pricing usually reflects that. The base of the Rainbow Bubble Tip Anemone is vibrant neon blue. This color gradually fades into a rose color on the tips of the tentacles.
Green Bubble Tip Anemones are fairly common. Like the Rose variety, these anemones are quite affordable and readily available in the trade.
Many new and seasoned aquarists dream of owning these invertebrates. But proper Bubble Tip Anemone care requires a bit of work to keep these creatures healthy! In short, we usually don’t recommend them for first-time aquarists. Having thorough knowledge about these animals is a must. The invertebrates are sensitive to water changes and require pristine conditions to stay in good shape. Failing to meet their needs can result in early death and damage to the tank environment as a whole. Yes, getting caught in a power head is a concern but rarely occurs. I have 6 (which time to sell a couple of them and none have ever left their spot in the tank.
The most important thing you’ll need to take care of before you bring your anemone home is perfecting the tank and water conditions. You should never place a Bubble Tip Anemone into a tank you just set up.
Take some time to get parameters just right and let the closed environment cycle for a few months. This ensures that conditions are stable and safe. Bubble Tip Anemones prefer warmer temperatures. Water should be on the alkali side as well. Monitor water conditions regularly to avoid any major changes. Ammonia and nitrate levels should be undetectable at all times using a good quakity test kit and Not API either.
Here are some water parameters to follow.

• Water temperature: Between 77°F and 82°F (stay close to the middle of this range)
• pH level: 8.1 to 8.4
• Water hardness: 8 to 12 dKH
• Specific gravity: 1.024 to 1.025
• Nitrate < .5

When you first introduce the anemone to the tank, turn down any pumps. The flow should be minimal until the anemone gets settled in. Chances are, your new Bubble Tip Anemone will move around the tank until it finds a suitable spot to call home.
If it starts to move towards any coral, simply direct your water jets to the coral. This will discourage the anemone from anchoring near it. It will move to another area to attach.
Bubble Tip Anemone lighting is a very important aspect of their care. These creatures need a lot of light to truly thrive because they’re photosynthetic. Basically, that means that they absorb light to make food and grow. The anemone has zooxanthellae in its body, which are symbiotic microorganisms they feed on. Without proper lighting, the anemone will expel the zooxanthellae and turn white. This process is called bleaching and often leads to death.
A moderate amount of flow is recommended. Many aquarists agree that too much flow will cause the anemone to stretch out and look stringy. Keeping things moderate will help avoid this from happening. Avoid directing your jets at the anemone. The creatures enjoy subtle movement at all times. But too much direct flow hitting the anemone will force it to move.
Lastly- Feeding.
Bubble Tip Anemones feeding is one of the easiest parts of their care. These animals get food from a lot of different sources. As mentioned earlier, they are photosynthetic and use light to create food. They will also eat food off of the fish they host. These anemones enjoy small morsels of shrimp and squid. They will also accept many frozen foods. To feed the anemone, attach the food to a stick or large tweezers. Then, touch the anemone with it. The creature will use its tentacles to grab onto the food and consume it. twice a week feedings is ample.

 

[LittleFidel]

um i think you may have vermetid snails all over the rocks

Feel free to come over and cover them all in super glue, but I’m sure as **** not taking the time to do that. Let me know when you find a better way to do it.

Every single one of my BTAs has its "foot" deep in a cave. So while they're out during the day, they retract into their cave or crevice at night.

This is the information I’m looking for. You, sir, deserve a cookie.

They respond to light and water flow. Too much light or flow will cause this. Other things to know-
They’re fairly low maintenance and they can add a really neat look to your tank. Bubble Tip Anemone care requires you to have a strong understanding of these invertebrates if you want them to thrive. They’re not as easy to own as many people think. Thanks to the symbiotic relationship they form with certain fish, they are a joy to watch and care for. This species splits and propagates very easily in the right conditions, resulting in large captive populations.
The length of the tentacles can vary. The same goes for the size and shape of the bulb. With some specimens, the bulb is accompanied by a small tip. Interestingly enough, the tentacles can change based on the anemone’s environment. Below the splay of tentacles is the anemone’s foot. The foot is delicate. Yet, it has simple muscle fibers that help the creature move and anchor onto rocks.
Rose Bubble Tip Anemones are, by far, the most common type you’ll see on the market. They’re prolific propagators, which undoubtedly contributes to their popularity. This type is quite affordable and is a good option for first-time anemone owners. Rainbow bubble Tip Anemone that’s usually considered to be exotic. They’re rarer than standard Rose varieties and their pricing usually reflects that. The base of the Rainbow Bubble Tip Anemone is vibrant neon blue. This color gradually fades into a rose color on the tips of the tentacles.
Green Bubble Tip Anemones are fairly common. Like the Rose variety, these anemones are quite affordable and readily available in the trade.
Many new and seasoned aquarists dream of owning these invertebrates. But proper Bubble Tip Anemone care requires a bit of work to keep these creatures healthy! In short, we usually don’t recommend them for first-time aquarists. Having thorough knowledge about these animals is a must. The invertebrates are sensitive to water changes and require pristine conditions to stay in good shape. Failing to meet their needs can result in early death and damage to the tank environment as a whole. Yes, getting caught in a power head is a concern but rarely occurs. I have 6 (which time to sell a couple of them and none have ever left their spot in the tank.
The most important thing you’ll need to take care of before you bring your anemone home is perfecting the tank and water conditions. You should never place a Bubble Tip Anemone into a tank you just set up.
Take some time to get parameters just right and let the closed environment cycle for a few months. This ensures that conditions are stable and safe. Bubble Tip Anemones prefer warmer temperatures. Water should be on the alkali side as well. Monitor water conditions regularly to avoid any major changes. Ammonia and nitrate levels should be undetectable at all times using a good quakity test kit and Not API either.
Here are some water parameters to follow.

• Water temperature: Between 77°F and 82°F (stay close to the middle of this range)
• pH level: 8.1 to 8.4
• Water hardness: 8 to 12 dKH
• Specific gravity: 1.024 to 1.025
• Nitrate < .5

When you first introduce the anemone to the tank, turn down any pumps. The flow should be minimal until the anemone gets settled in. Chances are, your new Bubble Tip Anemone will move around the tank until it finds a suitable spot to call home.
If it starts to move towards any coral, simply direct your water jets to the coral. This will discourage the anemone from anchoring near it. It will move to another area to attach.
Bubble Tip Anemone lighting is a very important aspect of their care. These creatures need a lot of light to truly thrive because they’re photosynthetic. Basically, that means that they absorb light to make food and grow. The anemone has zooxanthellae in its body, which are symbiotic microorganisms they feed on. Without proper lighting, the anemone will expel the zooxanthellae and turn white. This process is called bleaching and often leads to death.
A moderate amount of flow is recommended. Many aquarists agree that too much flow will cause the anemone to stretch out and look stringy. Keeping things moderate will help avoid this from happening. Avoid directing your jets at the anemone. The creatures enjoy subtle movement at all times. But too much direct flow hitting the anemone will force it to move.
Lastly- Feeding.
Bubble Tip Anemones feeding is one of the easiest parts of their care. These animals get food from a lot of different sources. As mentioned earlier, they are photosynthetic and use light to create food. They will also eat food off of the fish they host. These anemones enjoy small morsels of shrimp and squid. They will also accept many frozen foods. To feed the anemone, attach the food to a stick or large tweezers. Then, touch the anemone with it. The creature will use its tentacles to grab onto the food and consume it. twice a week feedings is ample.

This is not the information I am looking for. It could have been condensed to “ I have 6 and none have ever left their spot in the tank.” How much par do those six receive, for how many hours a day? What type of flow do they receive? 10x turnover? 30x? 50x? 80x?

 

[MaxTremors]

They generally move around until they find a spot they like, and even then they will move around periodically. It doesn’t look too unhappy, just looks like it’s hiding until it feels comfortable to come out.

In the future, when first adding an anemone to the tank, it’s best to do so when there are still several hours of light left on your lighting schedule. This will help them to orient themselves and to find a suitable spot more quickly and discourage them from wandering the first night.

Also, anemones and corals acclimate best best by just floating them, dipping them (when applicable), and then just putting them straight into the aquarium. Corals and anemones expel and take in water through diffusion, so they are self acclimating. It is best not to drip acclimate and instead get them into flowing water as soon as possible to aid in respiration. I know it’s seems counterintuitive and is at odds with what we have all been taught, but I promise you, your corals and anemones will acclimate sooner and extend their polyps faster if you skip the drip acclimation and just put them in the tank. But fish and inverts (clams especially), or anything with hemoglobin, you still want to drip acclimate.

 

[LittleFidel]

They generally move around until they find a spot they like, and even then they will move around periodically. It doesn’t look too unhappy, just looks like it’s hiding until it feels comfortable to come out.

In the future, when first adding an anemone to the tank, it’s best to do so when there are still several hours of light left on your lighting schedule. This will help them to orient themselves and to find a suitable spot more quickly and discourage them from wandering the first night.

Also, anemones and corals acclimate best best by just floating them, dipping them (when applicable), and then just putting them straight into the aquarium. Corals and anemones expel and take in water through diffusion, so they are self acclimating. It is best not to drip acclimate and instead get them into flowing water as soon as possible to aid in respiration. I know it’s seems counterintuitive and is at odds with what we have all been taught, but I promise you, your corals and anemones will acclimate sooner and extend their polyps faster if you skip the drip acclimation and just put them in the tank. But fish and inverts (clams especially), or anything with hemoglobin, you still want to drip acclimate.

Noted. I followed LiveAquaria’s acclimation instructions to ensure I was covered by their 7 day livestock guarantee. It required drip acclimation and a four hour blackout, which put my lights off until morning.

 

[blaxsun]

This is the information I’m looking for. You, sir, deserve a cookie.

You're more than welcome. Good luck with your new BTA - it looks like it's a nice specimen!

 

[LittleFidel]

It stayed in its cave day and night since I posted, I assumed it had found a place it liked until I woke up this morning and it was in the power head. I did an immediate 75% water change and got it out; it didn’t look well last time I checked. I’m disappointed.